glen
Forum Replies Created
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10 hours? I wouldn’t. The OIl will be fine. The Oil formulated today is a whole lot different than the single Grade juice use to be .
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Had Coachnet for years. (12) Never used until I had a Flat on my new F250 FX4 Supercrew. Dang thing didn’t have a Jack in the truck. Somebody Didn’t put the Puppy in. 100 miles from Home Base. Called Coachnet and they were there in 20 minutes and put new Spare on. Coachnet Made me a believer.
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That’s gonna be a DDEC V. EGR Motor without the piss (DEF) tank.
Look on your crossover pipe above the motor there should be a plate saying what the motor is.
Later
bv
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I regularly towed about 11000# with my 8V92 making gross weight about 55000#. Drivetrain was ok but you had to be careful about coolant temp (gear down, slow down, and keep revs up) and diff temp. Run full synthetic in all. I had no fan clutch on cooling fan and had installed the 9 blade series 60 fan.
I regularly tow 20000# with my series 60 grossing at about 70000#. Cooling is not an issue on the series 60 as the computer handles it but diff temp still is even though it is a larger axle. Slowing to 60-65 handles diff temp. Make sure you install a gauge if you don’t have one.
I tried to post a photo of rig. Note the front axle on the trailer…virtually no tongue weight. Competitive built about a dozen of these.
All the above said, I push the envelope all the time but I agree with most that you’d probably be better off with a series 60 coach and the larger diff. Not sure when it was phased in but my 1989 took 3 gallons on a diff oil change and my 1999 chassis takes 5 gallons.
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15 KW ought to run anything you needed.
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Yeah seen this a couple years back outside Pipe Creek Tx. Think he landed on Highway with engine trouble and front landing gear buckled. Looked like a new one.
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Art,
glad to hear all is well !
Alex
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That’s what I’m saying,you said it’s only happening when the key is on so the level low is affected by the key not all the other things
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Hey Don I never had mine open until I replaced the valve and cracked it 1/4 to 1/2 and it starts better then ever with it cracked,
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Bravo!
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When I built the race shop with a parking pad next to for the Prevost, I asked the 65+ y/o second generation concrete contractor how the slab should be. He directed me to the engineer at the concrete supplier. First words out of his mouth as proper subsurface preparation. He said my concrete guy “knows what right is”. Then he went on to educate me on concrete, rerod, steel screen, fiber, etc. I forgot all of it since. Never had a problem except for a couple of very time surface cracks that they said might occur.
My 65+ concrete guy and his crew of late 60’s, early 70’s guys poured the slab in the 1000sf race shop. Came back the next day and walked in the shop. All I heard was the foulest of language. There was a crack from one side to the other (across the narrow part). The entire crew was livid. I had radiant heat in the floor so the pex was already imbedded in the concrete. I think the guy was afraid I wanted it removed and redone. I accepted it as was. Crack never got larger or separated.
Make sure you put heavy poly under the concrete. That’ll keep the moisture from migrating through the concrete.
I would go with an overhead door. I think those seal the best. That’s what I would use.
Those of us on the Forum probably have a thousand different ways to spend your money. Let us know if you need more help!
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If you go back far enough in some posts you will read that those awnings are referred to as storm shutters in some conversations because of their appearance.
Later
bv
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I have to strongly disagree with Mike.
What he is suggesting is to let this rolling freight train gain speed without any effort to stop of modify the insanity.
When you get the notice, tuck your head between your knees and kiss your ass good bye. Because when that happens it is too late.
Don is on top of this and is correct in what he posts.
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Glad I left that state 17 years ago.
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My 1991 XL had all three behind front bumper.