George
Forum Replies Created
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Does anyone have a good number for power tech support everytime
i call I have to leave a message and no one ever calls back.
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Well let me know when you know I think we might do the same as we really like the area
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Check your ride height. We bought our 1st diesel pusher in FL. Drove it back home to TX. It had a vibration if I went over 55 mph. Long story short, the ride height was incorrect and the driveshaft needed to be rebalanced. Diesel pushers have short driveshafts that don’t take kindly to driveline/u-joint angles that are too high.We had a tag tire with a flat spot once. We couldn’t feel the vibration in the cockpit, but if you walked to the back you could here it.Everything we have ever owned, and currently own, has lead weights for balancing, and so far so good.
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The track hobby is what led me to the motorhome hobby. I call it my “track-crack”. Fun stuff!
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Al, I am not suggesting watching the gauges is a 24/7 task, which is why we have the safety systems. But rarely do we have a problem sneak up on us without warning. Whether we notice the start of an issue by using pre-trip inspection procedures, or watching gauges, or noticing a sound not previously heard or fluid leakage we did not have, my point is nothing on our coaches usually happens without a clue.
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Jon, I do agree with you however we must trust the safety systems we have , after all I do not think Erika will stand watch while i sleep 🙂 Thank you and i will update as i know more .
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The Speed ventures is the group the boys go in speedventures.com
This is a good safe thing to do with Covid, no groups, drivers meetings outside mask required and spaced apart, people that were walking around looking at cars were wearing mask. My BMW son got his vaccine today he’s in medical field.
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Let me point out that if you buy an XLII and do not know it has been recently tested by Prevost and found to be OK, or if it has the Prevost rivet repair including the strips over the joints between panels you are at risk.
Anyone selling an XLII coach has a serious conflict of interest because someone is going to have to pay for repairs on a coach with loose panels. Skin repair costs, including paint have been in mid 5 figures.
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Marshal, our Powertech should run 167-185 . Prior to this issue these were the values I would see.
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Aqua Hot
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good info , however I’m assuming your plugged in ? Or indoors where AH obviously would not be a good idea .
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Take a look on the Powertech site. That’s where I found mine.
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Davy, keep preaching God’s Word because that’s the only Hope we have and what we need
Sid
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I used some of those on my CC years ago.
I used Dayco belts and I think you put the number of belts in front of the belt number, 2AX74 or in your case 3AX74. They didn’t offer all the belts for the coach like the B series belts for the CC OTR air compressor.
Also the X in the belt number means it’s a toothed belt, not smooth like most belts. Doesn’t matter which you use.
I think I’ve been told the toothed belts run cooler not sure.
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Bill’s comment about the dust boots requires a bit of thread drift.
For a long time we have had comments posted about the failed boots around fittings that are greased such as at tie rod ends. In my 30 years of ownership I have never had a failed dust boot. The reason is simple and it relates to how the chassis is lubed.
First, understand that if you pay someone to lube the chassis you are likely not getting a master mechanic. Not only that, he likely has never been given a chance to understand the quality of a lube job is not related to how much grease he pumps.
When a joint is greased the grease enters the fitting and goes directly to the space between the two mating surfaces that rely on the grease to prevent wear. After the grease passes that area, the excess goes into the rubber dust cover. The moment any indication grease has entered the dust boot or cover is seen, that is the time to stop pumping and move on. But instead the grease jockey will keep pumping until the dust boot or cover expands to the point where grease starts coming out. That is like blowing up a balloon until air comes out.
The rubber dust covers do expand and eventually grease comes out because there is so much pressure. That’s not going to cause a new dust cover to fail, but over time as that over filling is repeated the cover gets a crack and with each subsequent lube job the crack increases in size until the dust cover has torn and failed.
As owners we either have to watch the grease jockey and make sure he does not over grease the fitting or make sure whoever is going to do the work understands the concept. (Good luck with that).
Replacing dust covers is time consuming and expensive and completely unnecessary. As the name suggests the rubber boot is intended to keep dust and dirt from getting between two moving parts. There is nothing in the use of the coach that will make it fail. But over greasing and the associated inflation of a part never intended to be inflated will ruin them.