Eric
Forum Replies Created
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R4 starter relay, <$40
or keyed ignition switch, <$40 from Prevost
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Thanks Art. I think I’m following you for most of it. I’m not sure I understand how you were able to run it from the back to front. How did you run it along / in the conduit.
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Seems that this day and age of off grid systems there are a lot of low voltage pump options.https://www.pumpsupermarket.com/product/solar-water-pump-direct-dc/https://www.pumpsupermarket.com/product/solar-water-pump-direct-dc/
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Eric
MemberNovember 5, 2022 at 8:14 pm in reply to: getting to the engine access cover in a Marathongot it out only after finding numerous gotcha’s.
wire harnesses attached on both outboard sides hidden in the back
ty wrap blocks attached to outboard sides
screw on top section of frame going up into structure above chrome trim, hidden under upper drawer catch.
You have to remove screws from all four sides of the drawer structure that attaches to remaining structure. This includes the center divider between drawers
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Mine was a bad Vanner Battery Monitor. Remove and install new one. A little over a $100 bucks.
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Thanks Tom, I still have the 8D Lifeline AGM’s I bought from you a year or so ago. They are holding up well.
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The resistors are there to reduce voltage to the low beams for use as drl’s. If you remove the resistors, the low beam drl’s will be at full brightness and you led headlamps should function at full brightness also in drl mode. Obviously, the thinking is that you don’t need full brightness for drl’s.
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If I don’t know the answer for sure, I like to guess.
Since we’re supposed to get our S-60 valves adjusted periodically, I’d say the S-60 probably has solid (mechanical?) lifters.
OHC? Solid cam followers?
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If your engine is talking to you about an additive then add it.
The only ones that say you can’t live without it are the companies making it.
Quality branded oil worked for me, Shell Rotilla.
AL
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You can also try shutting off the 24V power switch in the engine compartment. That killed the power to the air lock on our previous coach. I haven’t tried it on this one yet.
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Is there a point as to the converter of the bus?
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I refer to those old compressors like you have and I had on my 99 CC as the old Ford type.
I think they usually take around 6 pounds but as Jon stated the different converters my have altered the routing of the hoses but as a rule Prevost did do the installs of the dash air compressors.
Like Tom said they are cheap. I was told years ago to convert that to the new round compressors was pretty costly because of the conversion work on hoses and other stuff.
I think I was told the current hoses were not compatible with the newer freon the round compressors use.
I know it’s a PITA to keep messing with them every couple of years but it doesn’t cost near what trying to convert would be.
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Because my HH auto fill does not turn off I don’t use it, so when I couldn’t turn off tank fill this morning I started pulling out switches in the bays and wondering about power to the solenoid. I don’t ever leave city water turned on on the pad as I don’t want to come back to the bus with a burst pipe and rotten floors and carpet (though I will use it sporadically for clothes washing). I accidentally turned on auto fill when I cycled power to the HH indicator gauge this morning, it is usually on “HOLD”. Hoping this helps someone with a Liberty and/or HH system.
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Jerry, Mike, thanks for the information. I ended up only paying the shop’s price for the tires, nothing more ($900 under quoted price). There are occasions when it is simply best to leave and not have them touch anything else.