DON
Forum Replies Created
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There should be a Prevost data plate with all that info someplace in your coach. Should show axle weights, gvwr, and tire pressures.
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If you have a DDEC 1 be carefully
Make sure the DDEC 1 is only feed with 12 volts
Accidentaly putting 24 Volts on it will destroy it instantly and DDEC 1’s are hard to come by.
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“ I opened the big gray box above the engine and there’s a selinoid in there that was black and a tester showed it dead on one side.”
I cannot remember all the relays or solenoids in my first coach, but I believe I remember a solenoid (relay) that was for the engine start. With the key off it is only going to be hot on one side. With the key on and the starter button engaged it should be hot on both sides. I am assuming it was checked and found to not be passing current?
I believe the diagram for the electrical box will be helpful in diagnosing the problem and long before I started even thinking about pulling a starter I would be checking for power all the way down the line. If you are working in the rear I assume you are aware of the rear start feature so with a tester you can check almost everything without running up front?
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We had the 3 axle alignment done in September at Prevost Nashville and the results were great. Also added the Centramtic balancers from Jeff and ours rides straight and smooth.
Tom Hamrick
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There you have it folks, clarification from the factory of the chassis electrical system on a 33 year old coach.
What a great service, thanks Prevost…..
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Doug, if you set your tire pressures when ambient was 45, and now it is 68 ambient you are only dealing with a few degrees increase in pressure as a result of the change. Tom has a better handle on this than I do, but I don’t believe the default limits are so close as to alert as a result.
I have dealt with both higher and lower tire pressures in my limited experience because my initial tire setting always takes place in my garage which has been around 65 degrees and have gone into colder temps as well as higher temps and have not had alerts.
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The “agreed value” on our former Beaver Bus 34 was based upon an appraisal by a guy Miller Insurance recommended. Mark Koch. Based on appraisal we had a number of choices for insurance. National Interstate was our best option, then. Few years later rates went up and we shopped around. Then and now we have Nationwide.
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My email is working fine…
be certain it is : rsirmons@comcast.net be sure it is . net not . com…
I received thirty emails from all over yesterday…
Truk… try overcup@comcast.net …
Thanks,
Pres
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I just watched all three videos… Thanks Tom
Harry
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Harry, Do you not see this button for Discounts?
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The gauge is small 1 3/16″ diameter. There are three places on my dash. Then there’s space in the electrical cabinet next to the frig where all the switches and remotes are, or in the audio/video etc overhead cabinet, or in the bay with the chassis batts and equalizer, on/in the bay wall where the house battesies a buried, or somewhere in electric bay, etc
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Harry,
I will leave it to the experts to find the real problem, but to me it sounds like fuel starvation. I would change all fuel filters before spending money on anything else. They are cheap and most shops will do that as the first troubleshooting step. Cut open the old filters and see if they are full of black gooey stuff.
Good luck with your bus, it will all work out in the end. It can be a struggle for the first 6 months or so, to find, learn and understand all the bits and pieces that make it all work. But all the work is worth it once you are on the road and having fun.
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Nice looking coach.
Welcome to the 8V92 club. Still a few of us around.
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” 2 week period of recuperation”
Wha??
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Did I mention I checked the ground for Relay R71 which controls the dash light.
Under the relay, there are numbers which show which ground where, according to the electronic schematics.
From the below schematic, “86” is a good ground for 24v which goes back to the fuse. “85” is not a good ground for 24V. and this tells me that the ground issue is in one of the 10 bay doors.
I think it’s the yellow wires (170R, P, etc.) since the schematic shows these are the wires that carry the the ground signal to all 10 bay doors with electronic locking mechanisms.
I’m certainly not an expert in this area so someone with more electrical knowledge please chime in …
Did I mention I removed the R71 and called it quits, but my bet is still on Tom finding an easy answer to the problem!