DON
Forum Replies Created
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Pulling the driver’s side axle prevents the differential from turning the driveshaft and thus the transmission, but if you have any concerns you have the option of pulling the other axle or if you have someone crazy enough to get under the bus you can drop the driveshaft.
My first bus was towed over 180 miles with one axle pulled and it had no adverse effect on the transmission.
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Loc said: “If you see a bus in a French desert it is Le Mirage. Otherwise it is just a Prevost.”
That’s Somewhat of a half-baked answer there Loc. What if the bus is here in the US and the owners are enjoying Eggs Benedict? Or Quiche?
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Hello,
Last year I used Hy-Tech Thermal Solutions Bus Kote. Three step process very easy to do. After the primer, i put 8 coats of bus kote and then the sealer. This product in the late 90’s won NASA’s spin off award. This technology was orginally designed for the Space Shuttle heat tiles.
Excellent sealer, but my main reason was heat reduction. I saw at least 10 degrees drop in my interior temperature after putting product on. We are 100 degrees in summer in OKC and my 3 cruise airs could not keep bus cool. Now that work perfectly.
Thanks
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Jon,
On my trip home after purchasing my 2006 H3-45, I noticed the temperature cycling. (I don’t recall the temperature cycling as dramatic on my 2000 model.) I read the threads where you explained the temp ranges and was satisfied the fan clutch was working properly. However, with the coach at idle, I did notice a slight “growling” (for lack of a better word) noise. This past October, I had to replace the charge air cooler and after talking to my mechanic, I decided to replace the fan clutch also. The new clutch is different; it has a larger pulley and comes with a new belt. What I have noticed is that my temperature does not cycle as before. Once it gets to temperature, the gauge rarely moves. Are you aware of a change with the fan clutches? Thanks.
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Hi Tom, I didn’t think of L brackets but I’d need them in both corners right? Because I have to keep the bracket from coming forward or going backwards. And I don’t know how I’d get behind the plate, especially on the right hand side? Maybe a spot weld? Here again, putting something on the front is relatively easy because the plate goes down to the floor. Again, the problem is getting something behind it. it’s a poor spot to locate a plug-in but that’s what I have to work with.
Harry
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Great work David.
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My experience suggests ride height control valve. There is one on each side, probably in the fender well of the drive wheels, to the front of the drive wheels, and behind the plastic fender liner.
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Ok Jon, when you set up your conversion thread, include the inverter make, model, and parameter changes.
I’m curious as to how many of the current inverters can either output the higher voltage required for charging or even accept the higher voltage supplied by the Li-Fe-P batteries.
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I don’t necessarily think it’s a cool factor. Many people are scared of lithium’s anyhow. They don’t know that the lithium’s being used in your phone are more dangerous of catching on fire than a lifepo4 battery.
I don’t always subscribe to the – well you can have essntially a bit more than half lithium bank because that’s not always true if you have a 750 amp hour agm bank – the “safe” discharge level is 375 but you do have another 300+ amps that you can use in a pinch with a 400 amp hour bank – you still have 400. But that 400 is a solid 400 and depending upon the agm draw rate – you might only have 600 total amps vs 750. Also lithium’s have higher energy per amp hour delivered because they are delivering at 13.2 for 80 percent of the time whereas agm are delivering somewhere between 12.8 to 12
but honestly – it’s a use case scenario. If you don’t ever dry camp – then it doesn’t make much sense. The real factors for lithium are they can be heavily discharged and charged quickly. If you ever plan or design to have ac units running off battery – lithium’s would handle that much better than agms would. You can recharge an entire 800 amp hour battery bank in essentially less than hours. It takes a solid 6 hours for agm at that point. So you aren’t wasting generator hours/diesel running it longer than you need.
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google “tie rod dust boot” or “ball joint dust boot”.
You have a good NAPA there in NB too.
Here’s a Dorman link for some: LINK
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I wouldn’t walk away if you like it…I would budget for some repairs.
When I bought my 2000 in 2006 with 48,000 miles on it we practically flooded the whole service floor when draining tanks. It had lived 6 years in Florida.
I’m now closing in on 250,000 miles. I’ve replaced a couple suspension valves, one level valve and the air bags.
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George is 100% correct, and he actually understates the value of a detailed signature line.
Not only does information about the coach aid greatly in having access to help and accurate information, experienced owners can bring information to the conversation that wasn’t even requested. It is safe to say when all of us got our coaches we didn’t even know what we didn/t know.
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Michael, that is a hard question because there are so many scenarios. Just to confuse this discussion if we assume the bus dryer has had service, but the house accessory system or the Prevost accessory tank gets flooded from the aux compressor look at the potential for damage to accessory system devices, including rusted ping tanks depending on the vintage.
If the failure to maintain was because the owners never changed the original dryers or factory installed air dryer then evey system could be damaged, brakes, suspension, house, etc.
It doesn’t matter which system is screwed up or the extent of the damage. You can bet the farm that the entire coach is a disaster waiting to happen. If the pneumatic system wasn’t maintained it is probably safe to say neither was the coolant for example and that could cost an engine as a example.
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Jon what were the models you owned in past? what was source of fire in your first coach?
A thought for signature line. Listing location would be informative. Most list their coach type and toad.
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so i need to close the valve on the fresh water tank? that was what i assumed. it is definitely not a leak by definition. the hose is letting out water like it is supposed to. i just need to shut it off.