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Air leak with power switch
Posted by Chuck & Katrina on February 16, 2020 at 11:28 amHave a air leak that seams to be coming from the air dryer. I say seams to because I currently can’t get under the coach. The air leak goes away when the power switch (next to the ignition switch) is turned off. Air leak reappears when power switch is turned on. Any thoughts on what the leak might be?
Chuck
2000 Featherlite H3-45
2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee
Leesburg, FLJimmy replied 6 years, 7 months ago 16 Members · 22 Replies -
22 Replies
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What do you mean by a power switch?
The air dryer is only functioning when the engine driven compressor is powered by the engine.
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Most Featherlites have a toggle switch next to the key you have to turn on before you turn the key.
Later
bv
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Jon:
Battery master switch is what I switch on and then hear air leaking for approx 30 seconds to 1 minute afterwards. I hear what your saying about the air dryer only being operational with the engine running. The air leak in coming form the air dryer area, not being able to get under the coach I am unable to confirm exactly what is leaking.
I am still learning the air system and not sure what is in the area of the air dryer that would allow an air leak to come and go with the battery master switch.
Chuck
P.S. I believe the Batter Master Switch is a Prevost item, it is listed under controls and instruments in the Prevost manual.
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Bernie, you need to type real slow because Jon doesn’t read real fast.
Jon, think airplane Master Switch.
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That’s right they only put em on H’s only until about 07, was supposed to help reduce dead batteries.
Later
bv
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You guys are talking too fast. Is the master switch chassis (which I presume) and is it possible the air heard is the solenoid controlled manifold receiving air since the master is on?
One Prevost accessory air manifold always has accessory air pressure, the other not until the key (master?) is on.
Could be air to the belt tensioners, seat, air bags, etc.
Different converters do different things so Fred, as a Featherlite/Vantare guy the burden is on you to solve this problem. Me and Bernie are spectators.
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Both my H’s had the master switch, I never heard any type air when the switch was turned on. The belt bellows didn’t get air until the key was turned on.
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My Master Switch allows me to turn on the lights, clearance lamps and other minor Chassis electrical functions. I cannot send air, move slides, activate antennas or other major chassis functions until I turn on the ignition key. Once the ignition is active, the bus is ALIVE! If I just activate the ignition or other electrical switch, with the Master switch off, nothing happens. The master switch also deactivates the air horn for you dog owners who get tired of the dog honking the horn.
That is the way my bus works, but as we all know each bus is different in some instance since they are all “one off” builds according to the wishes of the original owner.
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I had a leak at one point at the ride height valve by the drive axle after shut down. It sounded like all the world it was coming from the air dryer.
Davy
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My experience suggests ride height control valve. There is one on each side, probably in the fender well of the drive wheels, to the front of the drive wheels, and behind the plastic fender liner.
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That master switch has nothing to do with ride height, it’s locked until the key comes on.
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I just tried to replicate the leak and had to have both the battery master switch on and the ignition on to get the leak to reappear. It only leaks for a short period of time and only leaks if the system is up to PSI (125 PSI).
Sound is Defiantly coming from in front of the drive axles, sound is more prominent on passengers side but you can hear it from the drivers side too.
Chuck
P.S. Bus does lean to passengers side after being shut down, but takes 5-6 days to do so.
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I’ve found that a cellphone on a telescoping “selfie stick” will allow one to take pics or video in otherwise impossible to see areas. Be careful not to let the phone fall off though! Don’t ask me how I know.
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I’m pretty sure I have never seen air when it has escaped so I am not certain a cell phone will see it either, but I do know the sound of escaping air will bounce around a lot and its source can be difficult to pin down.
What has helped me target specific areas or components is the use of a stethoscope. Pointing the receiving end around large areas with an audible air leak is a very fast way to end up zeroing in on the leak.
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Jon, vintage flip phones don’t have the ability to make a video (and audio) recording, but all smart phones can. If he gets a smart phone close to a large air leak while recording a video, it will be heard loud and clear especially as the camera moves close to the source.
P.S. Tom, can you break loose some of the dues money and buy the poor guy an old smart phone? Maybe a “selfie stick” too?
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