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Fan Clutch Bearing has a noise
Is there a way to install a new bearing versus a complete fan clutch at High cost
another poster said he was using a Horton option but did not indicate the cost versus the Prevost option.
Has anyone tried to rebuild a fan clutch? What is the cause of the failure of the fan clutch?
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7 Replies
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Somebody recently posted information on a shop that will rebuild the clutch.
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This is a follow up and owners need to be aware that fan clutches have historically been an item that requires attention.
First, as part of a pre-trip inspection, spin the fan with the engine off. The fan should rotate freely with no noise. As the bearings wear or start to fail the fan will have a rumble or growling noise. I don’t believe anyone has ever posted that a noisy fan has failed catastrophically, but at some point a noisy fan clutch will have to be replaced.
If necessary the fan can be “locked”. There are two ways. First, most have tabs or some means to mechanically lock the fan preventing the free wheeling oeration. The tabs can be seen by rotating the fan and when the hole in the tab is aligned with threaded holes in the hub it is in a position to be locked. The end of the fan clutch shaft has bolts that will thread into those holes. That is a temporary fix because the forces on fan are substantial and over time that method of locking the fan is going to fail.
On non-multiplex coaches (and maybe multiplex coaches) fans can be locked by breaking the #85 tab on the appropriate fan clutch relay(s). The relays are located in the rear electrical box and the decal identifies their function. Using a modified relay electrically locks the clutch.
Owners can verify clutch operation by watching how the temperature gauge cycles and can learn how to determine if the clutch is free wheeling, if the low speed is engaged or if the clutch is in the hgh speed mode.
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Profandrive.com
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Jon,
On my trip home after purchasing my 2006 H3-45, I noticed the temperature cycling. (I don’t recall the temperature cycling as dramatic on my 2000 model.) I read the threads where you explained the temp ranges and was satisfied the fan clutch was working properly. However, with the coach at idle, I did notice a slight “growling” (for lack of a better word) noise. This past October, I had to replace the charge air cooler and after talking to my mechanic, I decided to replace the fan clutch also. The new clutch is different; it has a larger pulley and comes with a new belt. What I have noticed is that my temperature does not cycle as before. Once it gets to temperature, the gauge rarely moves. Are you aware of a change with the fan clutches? Thanks.
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The “new” clutch functions exactly the same as the original.
I’m not suggesting you stare at the temp gauge but the only way I can think of the temp to not cycle is if the fan clutch is locked as it is on driver air coaches, and in that case the engne thermostat controls the temp, usually a lot lower than when the driver’s air is off and the fan is allowed to cycle
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I replace ours with a rebuilt unit from pro fan drive .Very good people to work with clutch came with a 1 year warranty. $ 7000 he does want the old one back. It is not bad to change . Takes a little time.
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Craig, you are correct about not bad to change as long as you have a strong back and long arms or room to use a lifting device.
But an XLII has the clutch so far in that only Charles Atlas is going to have the upper body strength to lift it with his arms extended.
How about Prevost buying a clutch that lasts longer than an oil change?
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