DON
Forum Replies Created
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For now avoid crowds
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Actually, under most circumstances it is my practice to bring the coach into the garage fully lowered, leave it that way until we have emptied it from the trip, and then raise it all the way, put stands under it and leave it that way.
I usually deflate the air bags when it is on stands just to get the weight off the tires.
I prefer it up in the air for access to the pit, and so if I am in the pit under it, the coach is fully supported and will not drop.
There are times however when I want it low, such as right now because of removing the entertainment center and swapping out batteries. That is not normal, but I have no concerns about doing that because so far my abuse of the air bags due to my driveway has not had a negative impact.
Those that have not seen my driveway will just have to take my word for the fact I raise and lower my coach as needed to make the transitions from somewhat level ground at the bottom and the flat garage floor at the top, with a very steep incline in between. I have the potential to scrape the nose and tail and high center the coach if I do not go through the raising and lowering of the various parts of the coach at the appropriate times.
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When you release your brakes the R-12 or R-14 valves are releasing the pressure that had applied the brakes. As that pressure is released it makes a noise. Normal.
The only alternative is to find out which relay valve is making the music, and then start swapping different brand valves to see which one make a noise you like.
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Good discussion. No doubt that there will be a learning curve with Li-Ion. Some early DIY installations had issues believed to be caused by temperature extremes. It will be good to get some long-term reliability data.
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Tim, we did what you are looking for here: prevostbumpertrims.com. Dalvin Pirtle is the owner.
We chose LED for the lows and the traditional bulb for the highs so there is no warm up delay any time such as when flashing. All four flash. Hi is all four. Lo is just the LEDs.
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Anthem, I do not stick my head in the sand regarding batteries and I have read as much as I can about “drop in” replacements, I have always babied my batteries, and I have always replaced them at 5 years regardless of how much life they may still have left.
I am not going to ever use the full potential of my Li batteries, I will not pretend to know how they work down to the molecular level, but do fully expect to benefit from less weight, more power if I should ever decide to need it, and most of all I fully expect they will have so many cycles of recharging available based on how I use batteries that I will never have to replace a house battery again.
I am not going to question their safety or engineering because that is as irrational as a non-pilot judging a pilot’s skills or a patient judging a surgeon’s skills because he is still alive.
One thing is for certain……my decision was made based solely on their claims and if their product fails to live up to their claims I have a venue at my fingertips to make many people aware. I seriously doubt if I will ever need to complain because everything points clearly to how well those batteries will do.
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Try not to wait too long for me to get a smart phone. Because of robo calls and telemarketers we are getting close to no phone.
I monitored my system before the change starting with the AGM batteries in float, discharged them to near 50% SOC, and monitored the charging process until it reached float. I then observed the inverters go through the “silent” phases and to float and back to silent, and back to float etc.
All parts of the charging protocol were within the requirements specified by Relion who makes the batteries.
When the batteries were installed I again observed the entire charging cycle and bulk and absorb voltages were the same as noted on the AGM. Without changing any programming on the Outback inverters I did notice the float voltage was a tenth of a volt lower than what it was with the AGM. I assume that just might be a normal variation in the inverter. The inverters upon reaching float also cycled through the “silent” phases so if I did not know they were changed I would not be able to tell by monitoring the remote display panel.
I may be a poor evaluator because I do not push our batteries. We have a perfectly fine generator and we aren’t “campers” so our batteries on any of our coaches rarely were depleted lower than 30 to 40% SOC and almost always were being charged at or before 50% SOC. The last time I changed batteries on the coach a friend got them. That was almost 4 years ago and he is still using them with no issues so I suspect these new Li batteries will be around longer than me.
Dry campers will see the greatest benefits because in a given amount of space the batteries are going to supply much more power, and if they use auto-start that added power availability is going to mean less generator starts and charging cycles. If they are willing to accept the same performance they have with AGM for example they may actually use fewer batteries to not only free up space but to make some serious reductions in weight with costs less extreme than the ones I incurred.
I’ll let Tom throw around some ways different conversions can use various combinations of batteries to increase power, retain the same amount of power and provide different cost differences between Li and AGM.
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Is secondary filter 10 microns?
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Mine too has the mechanical stop. I slipped my Dayco AX74 belts off, push the fan/gearbox towards the radiator and up against the stop, and I still have 1.25″ between the radiator and the fins of the fan.
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On my liberty 94, I have all K910026 and K910058 except for two – my guess is these were put in after either by Liberty or some other service. but I also have
K41EA00-KS6-KV2
K41EA00KS6KV21W1
Not sure what the difference between the KS1 to the KS6. The KS6 I have seen means spring return, but not sure why these different valves are in.
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Napa
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Change push in fittings to compression. Check all fittings to verify they are air tight.
Change the Norgren valves in the rear, if not the entire coach.
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Jon thanks. Related to what you wrote – if I raised the coach, and then bled the tank air off by dumping the front and then pumping the breaks – would that be an alternate way to remove the manifold from suspicion? (rob it of supply air so it wouldn’t be able to actuate the rear 5-way?
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Good job. I’ve never taken a Meritor caliper apart. Does someone make a rebuild kit?
Here is how I grease my calipers.
a) remove the poppet fitting
b) pump Meritor pt# A1779W283, which is NLGI#1 grease into the 2 grease fittings until fresh grease comes out the poppet fitting hole.
c) release the pawl on the slack adjuster and adjust or loosen it(lengthen stroke) fully which is about 4 or 5 360 turns of the adjuster. This will force excess grease out of the poppet fitting hole.
d) reinstall the poppet valve/fitting
e) re tighten(shorten stroke) of slack adjuster fully until pads are clamping the rotor, then release the pawl again and loosen/release(lengthen) stroke 1/2 to 3/4 turn. DONE -
I think you have 15 seconds once the SEL comes on, but you have the option of pressing the over-ride switch.
A CEL will not shut you down and you can keep driving, but the coolant level sensor is one of the three (oil pressure low, coolant temp high) that go right to SEL.