[Jack]

Don, I have used Chicago Rawhide seals (none I have installed ever leaked) but right now I cannot give you the seal number. I will dig around today and if I come up with it I will post it or email you.

I think they were original equipment and Prevost parts has always provided me with trade numbers when I asked.

[Archived]

Don, verify this but here is the pertinent poop that appears correct.

Prevost number 621101

SKF number 48690

Meritor number A1205P666

I do not have a Chicago Rawhide, 3M number I am confident in but you should be able to cross reference them easily from the above number.

Two critical things I am sure you know but bear repeating. When installing the hub seal in the hub take extreme care to not damage the outer metal part. The inner and outer parts need to rotate independently of one another and when installing make sure the hub is slid onto the axle spindle dead center with no misalignment up, down or sideways that might damage the seal.

Also torque the nut exactly as specified. Obviously too loose is a bad thing, but too tight can result in bearing failure and literally twisting the axle spindle off the axle.

[DON]

A motorcycle jack works great putting it back together.

Jack

[DON]

Thanks for the info.

Question: The parts manual list 2 different seals? # 621069 for “Oil”, and 621101 for “Grease”? Of course we run “oil” in our differentials, but Jon posted the “grease” part#(621101) in his post? Am I missing something?

[Joe]

What size socket do I need for the bearing nut?

[gordon]

Verify my numbers with Prevost. I think they are correct, but all my log books in which I logged seal replacement went with the coaches so I cannot look up the numbers to be sure.

I have to go to my garage to get the socket size, and will post it as soon as I can.

I do not know what your service manual says, but one tightening method is to torque to a specific value and back off about 1/4 turn, but my other service manual said tighten and check runout and I forgot the allowable or desired value. I do not know why two methods are listed for different vintages that took the same hub seal and had the same size nut, but I will get the information and post it about the socket.

I replaced a seal on a friend’s coach and whoever replaced it previously not only did a lousy job because it was leaking, but they did not install the lock on the nut that secures it by bending the tabs. The dumb asses over tightened the nut to keep it all together and it is a wonder the bearings weren’t cooked.

[Chuck & Katrina]

The Prevost parts man said to use “Oil” seal# 621069, and said it is a Scotseal# 48690, which I crossed over to a CR# 48690, same as SKF# 48690, same as National# 370195A, same as a Meritor# A 1205L1546, same as a Stemco GritGuard# 392-9034, and Stemco Voyager# 393-0134. Which is the best brand to buy?

The kit of 8 drum brake linings for both sides of the drive axle, Prevost# 641086(std size), are Federal Mogul-Abex kit# EX4592AD, same as Meritor# F557T4592A.

The 10 hole gasket Prevost# 620923 is a Meritor# 2208W335

Prevost has everything in stock and is priced competitively.

I tried my NAPA and they could get the seals, but not the linings? They’re unknowledgeable when it comes to HD truck parts.

Jon, here is what the mx manual states:
12.2 Bearing Adjustment
To adjust drive wheel bearings, raise vehicle until both dual wheels can be turned freely (approximately 6 inches from the ground). Position jack stands under drive axle, then lower vehicle approximately 2 inches in order to avoid entire weight of the axle being supported by the suspension air bellows and the shock absorber pins.
Remove axle shaft as indicated in “Rockwell Maintenance Manual No. 5” under heading “Single Reduction Differential Carriers” annexed to “Section 11” of this manual. Remove gaskets. Unscrew lock nut and remove adjusting nut lock ring.
To adjust, tighten adjusting nut until the wheel binds, rotate the wheel while tightening so that all surfaces are in proper contact. Back off adjusting nut approximately 1/4 to 1/3 turn to assure 001/007″ (0254/0.1778 mm) end play and to ensure that wheel turns freely. Replace lock ring, and adjust nut dowel pin in one of the holes. The ring may be turned over if necessary to allow more accurate adjustment of bearings.
Tighten lock nut and recheck bearing adjustment. Replace the axle shaft using a new gasket

I have a magnetic base and dial indicator that I use to set end play.

Here are some Prevost manual links:

In the parts manual see p.957 of 2426 pages: Parts Manual LINK

In the mx manual see p.254 of 466 pages: Mx Manual LINK

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2000 Featherlite H3-45

2024 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Leesburg, FL

[DON]

Don

I have recently carried out the same work on my 95 Marathon, the procedure that you posted is what i used to set the end float on drive axle bearings and it is listed in the Rockwell / Meritor Manual,

I found that by flipping the intermediate locking ring altered the end-float by 2-3 thou, i ended up with 3 thou each side end float.

I used the scot seal seals, they fitted fine and i believe they are a good seal.

I also took this opportunity to change over to synthetic 70/90 gear oil for the diff.

Prevost manual also recommends using silicone on the drive shaft gasket,

Regards

Gordon

[George]

Thanks,
and yes I have been using synthetic gear oil in the differentials of our vehicles for 10+ yrs now. Great stuff.

[Dick]

All good info, and yours is the procedure in which runout and not torque is the standard.

You will not have any problems since it sounds as if you will have all the right parts and you know the procedure.

Why do you need brake linings? My 97 had 250,000 and the linings were still ample and in good shape.

[Dick]

What size socket to I need?

I may not need to do the drum brakes? Lining thickness is OK but I don’t have the drum off yet to see what is what. If they’re soaked with 90w, or whatever? I’ll be prepared. I don’t mind having the parts just sit on my shelf ready to go just in case. I have had new disc pads and slide pins sitting on my shelf for yrs now, for when or if.

For everyones info, the mx manual says minimum thickness of the lining is 1/4″. It also says NEVER turn the drums. Cast into the outside of the drums is the maximum inside diameter. On ours it’s 14.830″. Below is a picture of the snap-on impact screw driver set and brake drum measuring caliper.

[Jeff]

My experience (about 7 axle seals) has been that stemco is a far superior product over Scotseal. Stemco also has a proprietary locking/torque nut supposedly easy/foolproof to use.

[Bill]

Drive Axle Nut Socket……….4″

Steer and Tag Axle Nut Socket………2 1/2″

[Joe]

4″, that’s good because I already have one from my Monaco days.

The 5 phillips headed counter sunk bolts that hold the drum to the hub came out easily, and the drum came off the hub easily. But the axle is glued/siliconed to the hub and is being stubborn. So far I haven’t been able to break it loose. There are 3 threaded holes on the axle flange so I might have to borrow/rent a large slide hammer so as to get it loose. Or maybe heat, and/or a bigger hammer.

The brake linings are 0.68″ thick and in good shape. No gear oil on them. The drum is in good shape with an inside diameter of 14.535″. I think they start life new at 14.500″. There is a small 35″ ridge at the edge.

Here are some pics

[al]

Use a 10 lb sledge to bust it loose. I had two changed and both guys used a sledge. Swing it hard. Hit the dome at different angles around it.