Davy
Forum Replies Created
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Loosen the ones in the circle. 1/4 inch of travel will release the groove in the cylinder and let it unscrew. Once the Cylinder is out you can take those completely out to remove the box.
I’m not sure which flat head screws you took off.
You can remove that plate in the photo to give better access to the screws and maybe a better view. Maybe those are the flat head screws you are talking about
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Davy,
That is the part you removed in order to press the cylinder out to get the photo you sent.
Ah – I forgot to mention, the screws in the door edge that go thru the nuts turned on edge in the “box” also engage the groove of the cylinder to keep it from being turned from the outside. To prevent a crook from being able to remove the cylinder.
So remove the kick plate and loosen those screws, don’t take them out until the cylinder is removed.
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Tracking my car is what led me to RV ownership which led me eventually to a Prevost. Love the hobby.
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While Detroit can easily stipulate an allowable percentage of biodiesel there is a real world problem. Some pumps state the percentage of biodiesel, but it seems that more and more I am seeing decals that state the fuel may contain up to XX percent of biodiesel. How will we know the percentage? You can bet the person behind the fuel desk will have no clue.
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The cook top posted in the picture above is an induction cook top and I think most folks are favoring induction over the electric element versions. We sure love our new K&H induction setup.
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I’m with Jeff, this appears to be heavy duty coolant with pre-charge, but not Extended Life.
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I was in the locksmith business in a past life, pulling the key out compensates for worn key or bad duplicate. Any locksmith could correct with new tumblers in the cylinder.
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That’s awesome – I’m considering moving that project to the front burner! What is a good budget number for having both done?
Thanks
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Engine temp is definitely something that must be monitored and my first question back to you is if what you are describing is a change or has it always been what you describe?
Generally speaking our fan clutches are controlled by DDEC and while the engagement temps can be programmed by a Detroit dealer, the standard to the best of my knowledge is the low speed fan engage temp is 204, and the high speed fan engage is 208. The gauge on the dash is not designed so we can read the temps precisely so when we monitor the gauges we just have to accept the facts that the gauge does not allow precise readings and we also have to accept the fact the gauge may have a small error in its display.
I have the same gauge on my coach and I see similar displays as you describe on mine. I see as normal engine temps ranging from what looks like it could be 190, up to just shy of the 210 mark. When going up a long steep hill in summer time temps I can see the displayed temp cycle between what looks like 200 and 210. I believe when I see the lower number the fan clutch is engage and due to the horsepower used to climb the hill the engine never cools enough to disengage the low speed clutch. So as it heats and get to what looks like the high speed temp, I can see it apparently engages the high speed clutch at the 210 mark, and then drops to about 200 when the high speed clutch disengages and the low speed clutch is engaged. Then the cycle starts all over again.
When cruising on relatively flat highways I see the temps cycle from 190 up to just shy of the 210 mark that I have assumed is the low speed clutch engaging which then causes the displayed temp to drop back down.
What I am saying is that monitoring the temp gauge I am able to detect low speed clutch engagement and if on hills can recognize the high speed clutch engagement. My guess is yours is normal but to be sure of that I would want to monitor the temps and their range on the flat and then on a long steep hill before being certain.
I have a reader with DDEC V software so if you have doubts see if you can borrow or get access to a reader and you can literally see precise temp readings and know for sure all is OK.
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Hello Art – are you changing coolant type this time, or has it already been done. I have been reading old posts regarding draining, re-filling with distilled water repeatedly…Not sure if I will go back with Power Cool or Power Cool Plus
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NAPA branding a 4070 filter which is labeled by WIX for the 6000 +/- NAPA stores in North America.
Other vendors who wish to sell WIX are given a fifth number, usually a 2.
There is no difference in the filter in box.
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The cost of the tire is 10 bucks less than the Xza2, but it already has the sensor in it. It may be the way i go.
Thanks
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My friend’s Allison problem was not the flex plate, it apparently was internal. It was pulled and exchanged for a reman and he doesn’t know what the rebuilder found.
Does this coach have Jake Brake or a transmission retarder?
We’re getting pictures of areas of a coach that 99% or more of us will never ever see.
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So on the tail part of compressor that is a oil line that Tees off and ss line to DN50 front and rear oil then at Tee other line to block does what? Is the oil coming from block? and then oiling compressor and DN50?
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2004 chassis