Dan
Forum Replies Created
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If it is indeed a 12V fuse, you may want to consider replaciing it with an auto resetting fuse, available at most all auto parts stores.
Should you both try to move the sun screen again at the same time, the fuse will protect the circuit but after a short time it will reset itself and you will be back in business.
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I don’t think going from the manual level low to ride height had anything to do with the leak. And since the bus stayed at the ride height my theory about the 3 port Norgren is off the table. I don’t know enough about your conversion to know if the converter has something in that area that would leak down the accessory system. If the sound came from the passenger side there is a Prevost installed valve, manifold and I think a pressure regulator behind the tag and that might be something to look at.
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Charlie:
Driveway. I have a layout similar to yours, but my surfaces are wider.
Road: 22.5″ of blacktop. There is a gravel shoulder on both sides about 3′ to 4′ wide.
Driveway: 14′-10″. I don’t know the thickness of the concrete off hand, I will check and amend my post. I have original concrete and new concrete from when we built the race shop and bus parking area. The new was pinned to the old. I told the concrete the bus weighed 52,000#. He said “don’t worry”. I put the steer tires at the edge of the old concrete, where the new and old come together, and of course on the new concrete. I put the tags and drive tires in the same places. NO CRACKS. One of the big things to keep in mind when putting lots of weight on concrete is what’s underneath. If there is lots of the proper rock and stone with proper drainage, that makes a HUGE difference.
I’ve added some pictures to give you an idea of what I’m dealing with. I back in from left (west) of the driveway which makes the turn in more than 90 degrees. I do that so I can more easily watch the back of the coach and trailer (as appropriate) when I’m backing in.
I think you need to widen your driveway or at least the first probably 45 to 50 feet. You can’t do much about the road in front of the house that you need to back off of, but you’re only 2′ narrower than what I have to work with. Do you have the same elevacation from the road back through the driveway? We don’t. There is a pronounced drop from the road down the driveway, not as dramatic I understand that Jon Wehrenberg has to deal with, but something I was concerned about.
Not only do I back the 45’/IFS coach into the driveway and often into its parking space in one continuous motion, I also back the 26′ enclosed trailer with a 5′ tongue into its parking stall with the coach. It takes practice and a good understanding of the geometry involved. (BTW its “geometry” and not “physics” when you’re talking backing the coach into tight places … “physics” comes into play when you hit something with the coach like a large rock or mail box or short post you didn’t see or a tall concrete curb you didn’t allow for).
I also don’t lift the tag when I back up or pull out. Two reasons: (1) one of the tag pivot points is frozen/rusted tight and I haven’t gotten around to dealing with that and (2) when you lift the tag, the coach drops and it takes a while for it to come back up. Because of the drop from the road onto the driveway, when I’ve lifted the tag (actually only half of it) I’ve had contact between the driveshaft loop and the road. I can get the job done without lifting the tag for now.
Check to see (1) if the zoning, homeowners association, etc. will allow you to have a coach parked on your property and (2) if you can widen your driveway. Remember you’ll want to park the coach on concrete.
I’m actually looking at widening my driveway by 7.5′ (on the east side, right side of the aerial picture, left side of the shots looking at the parked coach) so that I can leave the coach, coach and trailer, Suburban and trailer, just trailer, or friends coach(es) on the driveway without driving around it onto the grass. Plus I’d have more room to work with when I need to move the trailer in and out of its parking place.
Will a Prevost fit into your work. As you go off on different jobs, try to figure out at each job what you’d do with the coach. Where would you park it, would you have any services, how long of a commute. That will help you really decide if you can use a coach in your work.
One thing I’d suggest is you that you buy a coach with separate washer and dryer. If you’re going to be working out of the coach, you’ll want to do laundry in the coach. We love our separate units when we travel.
Length. We first started out quest looking for a 40’/IFS Liberty. I wanted OTR/bus air, 40′ was shorter for manuvering the trailer, and I’d been told the IFS had a smaller turning radius which would help with the trailer. But then a broker in Florida showed us a 45′ and explained that not all the additional five feet is in the wheelbase (only part of it) and explained the difference in the interior room … and I quickly determined that for the long term the 45′ was better for us. With some practice and help from my wife when we’re in tights situations, we make the 45′ work.
No offense to everyone and anyone who is happy with their 40′ coach, their combo washer/dryer unit, and who don’t see a need for OTR/bus air.
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Jim and Chris,
Go take them to court with Judge Judy. I know I’d like to hear their dog and pony tale about two scoundrels from Colorado that did not know their bus muffler was damaged pre-inspection on a very expensive coach. Take your book of maintenance work since bought and see what the Judge says. Could recover costs up to $5,000 and damage the shop’s reputation in front of many people nationwide.
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Well come on down…..
Oh by the way I hired the best guy around that makes it look like childs play……
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Great… And yes there’s a big difference in a XLII windshield and an XL, not as daily handled due to size.
Use a Hide a Key…
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I’ve had the battery problem and your situation sounded like my battery problem. Peter doesn’t keep his batteries or coaches long enough to experience a bad battery.
Sorry to hear about the CoachNet guy.
Any idea how old your batteries were?? All bad or just one or two?
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In the past folks have used a mild vinegar and water mix. Call me lazy but I learned very early on that if I did not dry the coach it would get spots and then I would go crazy working to get them off. But now that I am approaching Tom’s age (and aversion to physical labor) I have found the best removal method is ………TIME.
Over time and after the usual washes after running through rain or just washing dust off the spots are gone, but even if you have to wash it in sections so the water does not dry on the coach I always wipe it dry.
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Bonded is an electrical term and it relates to some wiring in which the common (white) and ground (green) are connected together, typically in the electrical box.
Codes vary so on some RV outlets there will be a separation between the two, and on others the two will be joined in the power outlet box for example.
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John,
First thing we did with our coach is to take it to Stewart and Stevenson, which is an Allison and DD service place. We did get a printout of the engine showing pertinent info. -
While at Oysterfest I lost the fan in my freezer compartment
that circulates the cold air throughout the ‘fridge. 76 dollars later and a few screws removed and
replaced, I was back in service with the plug and play replacement fan and it
is still running great. Don’t give up until
you have looked at all the easy fixes first. -
Along with problems with some RV parks and their attitudes about trailers, add to that the grief loading a car into one and all of a sudden it doesn’t look like a trailer is worth the trouble.
I can just picture myself trying to wiggle out the car window, then laying on my belly on the trailer floor trying to hook up the hold downs, and worse, going through the same exercise in reverse to get the car out of the trailer. I think I would rather call Uber and leave the trailer home.
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I had my Generator set at the breaker panal to Auto Start but thought that there might be some other setting somewhere, we had a bad storm at the campground and lost power for two days, I had to manually start the generator, the light was on at the panel indicating Auto Start but it did not start with the shore power outage, Im baffeled
Thanks
Libby
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My bad Ron. I didn’t look at the user name or I would have known. I suspect the R22 might be either exclusive to the seated coaches or a bus company ordered it with an R22 system.
But refrigeration is all the same in the respect the refrigerant still is going to have a high and low pressure value, and the system has the correct charge when those pressures are met. The label even suggests that in how it is worded regarding the capacity.
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54 years ago, I talked my father into renting a boat on our annual vacation so I could waterski. He was in doubt I could ski since we were all landlubbers with no boating experience. My uncle volunteered to drive the rental boat and was a real character. Everytime he gunned the throttle he would shout “Roll ‘em” in a Jackie Gleason voice. My father’s eyes lit up when he saw I could ski. In his true spirit, the week we got back from vacation we were boat owners. Of course, the boat was named “Roll ‘em”.
We soon had a cottage in Canada with a slew of boats, all with names:
Fishing Boat – Roll ‘em Early (we fished at dawn)
Sail Boat – Roll ‘em Away
Kayak – Roll ‘em Over
Canoe – Roll ‘em Yonder
Pontoon – Roll ‘em Party
So naturally, my Prevost is named “Roll ‘em Home”. The only place you’ll see the name is when you’re parked near me and see it as a WiFi choice.