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OTR air troubleshooting
As a rank amateur at maintaining air conditioning systems, I need some serious guidance. I discovered my old technique of topping off freon until the sight glass bubbles disappear can lead to overcharging the Prevost OTR system! I’ve sheepishly brought the level back to the halfway point on the lower receiver tank glass and ignored the dryer glass bubbles, but while that level is correct for R-135 freon, I’m not sure it’s the same for R-22. I’ve got a 1998 seated coach that was made just before they changed freon, so it’s still on the older stuff. Prevost pubs sent me the later R-135 maintenance manual and I’m assuming it’s a bit off. Bringing up an earlier coach series manual on the Prevost website should show me one using R-22, but it doesn’t. Can anyone help with a fudge factor for adjusting printed R-135 pressures and levels to R-22?
Please check my logic on AC troubleshooting. I think I should resolve freon issues before looking for electrical problems. That is, assuming the system either activates unloaders to reduce compressor output or disengages the clutch when the selected temperature is reached, it should be obvious that the electrical control end is basically working so long as the clutch is engaged and the compressor heads are cool on the suction side and hot on the high pressure side. Does that sound like a reasonable statement if I manually bypass the liquid refrigerant solenoid valve, ensuring an unrestricted flow? If so, it would appear that the only things I can do to affect all the temperature and pressure readings I’ve taken are adjust the freon level, clean the filters and fins or fiddle with the superheat adjustment on the expansion valve (something I’m really hesitant to do). With the freon level now correct and no air blockage in the condenser or evaporator, the system is still putting out ambient temperature air. I’m hoping someone in the group can help me decide what to do next. Thanks, Ron
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