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Don’s method sounds like a good one. It would not be much of a big deal to make minor changes to the plumbing between the radiator and the generator to add ball valves instead of the removable caps, and using a small pump push the coolant back through the valves under pressure to refill.

Since I have no gainful employment the 20 minutes or so I use to heat up the generator, shut it down, and let it cool so it sucks coolant from the small reservoir tank I’m OK with my procedure, but Don’s would be a real time saver.

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Thanks Don I already replaced the pins with out O rings and already rebuilt Meritor calipers with minor kit all 4,New pads, Just front rotors have small cracks,not bad but I would like to replace them, The Meritor helper springs were already there. Never replaced oil seal so it would be a good time to do that and new gear oil. Rotors replacement on steer Axel only spray some lube on all those nuts and remove?? Bushing’s were just a little loose

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Frt. & Tag axle wet hub seal part# = SKF # 35066 = Prevost # 610870

Steer axle rotor pt # Meritor 3218-Y-1065

Caliper minor rebuild kit = Meritor K15001

Old spec = slide pin kit with o-ring = KIT15013 or KIT15003 kit, pin dia .990” = Prevost# 611100

New spec = slide pin kit wo o-ring = KIT15016, pin dia .988” = Prevost# 611169

Torque plate bushing kit Meritor 1225M1001 (per axle)

Caliper bushing kit Kit15010 (per caliper)

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Hello Chris – how can I contact you? Can you edit your contact info where your name at the top right of the screen links to an email address? Or click on mine and email me.

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Liberty coach used spigot style shutoffs for the coolant loop through the water heater. if you noticed the leak after driving the coach and it was hot water dripping it would not be unlikely for the pop off valve to be bad. verify where the water is coming from but in my experience that is the first place to look, as well as the cheapest and easiest fix.

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I pulled the axles when I was doing the brakes on the drive.

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Copper radiator? My Core is aluminum, and my tanks are Brass.

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Don:

Your giving me engine bay envy.

Chuck

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Don:

Why is the one section of the exhaust not covered by the heat blanket?

Chuck

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Mike: Great artistic contribution!

The negative cable to the “400Ah12v” (the load?) could be fastened to the top battery (as you have it) or probably to any negative post. Let’s say we put the negative cable to the “400Ah12v” on the bottom battery; like the positive cable is.

What is the technical impact? I’m not an electrical engineer, but intuitively I’m thinking that having the positive cable to the “load” from one end of the line of four batteries and the negative cable to the “load” at the other end of the line them pulls electricity through the entire package of four batteries.

I presume hooking the both the positive and negative cables to the “load” at only a single battery would then pull electricity primarily from that battery which would discharge the four unevenly.

I wonder how accurate my thoughts are.

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“Artists rendering of how lines are ran.”

Is there a gallery where I can find signed originals by this artist?

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Art, on a trip this week to Space X to watch Starship leave the land mass in Boca Chica, Texas. My driver’s air stopped working. Driver’s air is important to me because it defrosts the window and blows cold air on my legs and face. Salon air does not do this.

I am in Marathon coach number 632. It has had the York compressor replaced twice in 23 years. Not by me but by second owner. So I do not know where they need to be replace every few years came from. I had the compressor fixed at Tec Bus Shop next door to Marathon in Eugene, Oregon five years ago because the second owner did not understand that the fittings on the top for suction and high pressure come in three styles. So, it kept leaking until I put the right Tube O-Ring fittings on it. It still loses a little freon every year but I keep it charged up and oiled….very important oiled…..York’s must have oil in the system and in the crank case.

MEI Corporation is distributor for TCCI. I called them on Wednesday April 19^th and this Caroline Marks called me back Thursday April 20^th:

Contact:

Caroline Marks

Marks Air, Inc.

Cell/ What’s App 1 (813) 716-4084

Office 1 (800) 521-9854 ext 206

Caroline@MarksAir.com

Went to this online catalog for compressor and clutch (Must Have Catalog for HVAC on truck/bus).

Clutch:

http://www.meicorporation.com/inventory/mobile/index.html#p=220

Compressor:

http://www.meicorporation.com/inventory/mobile/index.html#p=241

Parts to be delivered to me April 21^st.

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Do you have self adjusting (automatic) slack adjusters?

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They say to get the loose metal off. Then degrease and apply another chemical then water. I’m painting outside, and covered in paint and it won’t come off

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The clutch fan on our DDEC3 series 60 doesn’t engage low speed until 200*f and high speed at 204*f. Thermostats open at 190*f.

Besides having the Prevost dash analog water temp gauge, I have a ScanGauge D (digital) and can watch/see when the ECM engages the clutch fan. In the winter high speed rarely is signaled to engage.

I pulled it apart a little more giving me better access to a lot more fasteners and ole hoses.

I’m removing and cleaning the trans heat exchanger. There is a small atf leak that I believe is coming from the trans temp sensor.