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Maybe Bendix R-14 brake relay valve, p.47:

https://www.bendix.com/media/documents/BW1114QuickReferenceCatalog.pdf

and my rebuild w/pics

/threaddetails.asp?Category=Pneumatic%3E&ThreadID=6143

Bad/fast enough you should be able to here it?

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I’d check the PP-1 valve first. I had a similar issue. Just by releasing and reapplying with authority, the bleed down stopped on primary for me. I haven’t replaced the valve, yet. It might of been more of user error for me.

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Rand McNally also offers an RV specific GPS.

We have tried several Garmin units in the past and always go back to RM because they are more user friendly.

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We’ve crossed into Canada many times over 20 years with no problem. Allow lots of time crossing both borders. Port Huron is easier and not nearly as busy as Detroit/Windsor.

You’ll need a passport and the usual vehicle ID stuff. They will ask where you are going, for how long and maybe other questions. They may search your bus and toad. Weapons are not allowed into Canada and if they find any you will have a huge, no-mercy problem.

We have been searched much more often returning to the US. There is a list of fruits and vegetables (likely available on-line now) which you cannot bring into the US. They will be confiscated if you are searched.

There is nothing to be concerned about as long as you are forthcoming and honest. Have a great trip.

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After you login and go to the “forum” home page there a big box that says “PROFILE”. Click on it and fill in your information. At the bottom there a question asking if you want to show your email or not. Answer “yes” and hit “update”.

If your using a smart ph? I have no idea 🙁

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What day you heading over?

Are you in florida?

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My coach came with a huge 120v to 24V charger connected to a coach charge button in my firefly. Also came with 120v to 12V for the house and a gen charge button to connect house to the dedicated genny battery.

I’d just run the 24v charger off my inverter or genny and let it charge up before trying to start. Might take couple hours.

Also yes for the starter there are 4 12V batteries back there in a series/parallel setup for 24V. You could have used their 12V hooked up to 2 of the batteries which would charge those up and then the Vanner would equalize the load to charge the other 2.

Another option is to use 2 12V jump packs in series – to + to – to + which will give you the 24V needed.

Invest in a 120v to 12/24v charger and keep it in your breakdown kit. .I’d never leave home without it.

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One additional reference point is that not all wire of the same size can safely carry the same amp load. Cheap CCA (copper coated aluminum) wire is at the low amp end of that spectrum and tinned solid copper high strand count marine wire with high temp insulation is at the high amp carrying end of the spectrum. So, the type of wire, the size and the environment in which it is used all determine the size of circuit breaker required. Don’t overlook the importance of gas tight properly set crimps on the wire ends, also.

For our buses the best (and most expensive place) to buy wire used for DC loads is a good marine dealer. For AC loads go to an electrical supply house. The worst place to buy wire for DC loads is eBay, followed by the big box stores and home centers. For AC loads use stranded, rather than solid wire, and avoid wire nut connectors.

Jerry

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Update, new compressor ordered. Hope to have it installed this weekend.

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Did you read thru this thread here about changing aux compressor? it might help?

/threaddetails.asp?Category=Pneumatic%3E&ThreadID=13654#104699

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Thank you for the reply, it is a 96 chassis that was converted by Marathon in 97 so I think I have the solid axle and it has Howard Center Steer so this is something I will have to take a look at, thanks again,

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Thank you for the tips and advice. I spent more time investigating last night, and I have further information.

The remote display on Inverter #1 is “stuck” on the “set generator” screen. None of the buttons on the remote are functioning, so I cannot change the menu item from “set generator,” and I cannot scroll thru the specific commands (i.e., “off,” “auto,” “on,” etc.) If I press the “default to factory settings” button, the cursor moves one position. Using this method, I moved the “set generator” choice to “auto.”

I confirmed that the display on the top of Inverter #1 is identical to the remote display (both say “set generator”), and the buttons on the top of the Inverter are non-functioning. I assume that this indicates that the remote is not the problem.

The generator frequently started, ran less than one minute, and then shut down.I temporarily solved this problem by switching 12V disconnect for the generator.

I went through the procedure for putting the bus “to sleep,” which included switching the disconnects for the inverters. I waited about 20 minutes, and then “woke up” the bus. Both inverters displayed the “Inverter” screen, and the buttons on Inverter #1 were functioning. So, I selected “on” for the inverter.

I was just about to declare “victory,” but then the display on Inverter #1 returned to the “set generator” screen and the buttons were once again non- functional.

Both inverters switched to “bulk” charge after they were re-powered, and both eventually switched to “float” charge. I left the 12v generator disconnect disconnected, so I am not sure if the generator is going to continue to start and shut off.

So, disconnecting and re-connecting the power to the inverters corrected the problem, but only for a short time. If I could ever get the buttons on Inverter #1 to work properly, I know how to set the parameters on the Inverter (Thanks, Tom!).

This Inverter #1 problem arose following a thunderstorm. The bus was plugged into a Progressive Industries EMS, but it did not indicate any faults occurred.

Any ideas????

‘

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Jeff:

Take a trip north when it’s cold and you will find more leaks!

In as much as I know I will never stop all the leaks long term, I have made it a mission to try (I know, there is better ways I can spend my time).

I have replaced all the air bags, all the Norgen valves, about 90% of the push on fittings, all the PSI adjustable valves, interior sliding door valve, and just about any other fittings I find (the quick connections for a portable air hose plug-in’s were a leaking source too).

I have (had) my leaking down to the point that my primary and secondary tanks hold air for over two months and my Aux tank would hold for about a week. THEN I took a trip north last November. When I went to depart, I couldn’t get the air steering wheel adjustment to lock. Finally got it to lock for the drive home then replaced it. Now leaks are minimized again.

Air adjust for the steering wheel never showed up until a cold morning up north. Probably would have never found it otherwise. The chase never seems to end. I also noticed the safety valves WOULD leak back long term but WOULD NOT leak back with a fast (catastrophic) leak like experienced during a leak test.

Chuck

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Bill, there will still be valves, and most likely all dumping will be done while at the controls at the water bay

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Good Morning Mikee and THANK YOU for your reply – It defies logic and you are 100% correct in that should be the case, yet neither check valve has failed.

I cannot comprehend why changing that PR-2 valve would get the result because no where on the air diagram for my bus do the aux, primary and secondary air lines “intersect”. It makes absolutely no logical sense.

Only would it make since if BOTH my primary and secondary one-way check valves had simultaneously failed.

I have performed tank draining / check valve testing in the proper sequence recently and a few times in the past after learning about it from this group and the check valves work and the tanks do not drain except by the petcock drain valve.

I called Haldex customer support to ask a couple of questions about the PR-2 and the tech stated exactly what you state!

Another way during this process that I tested the primary tank check valve was due to the fact I did not drain the main tank prior to disconnecting the aux air tank supply which comes from the main tank via a supply tee at the secondary tank that feeds both the secondary and aux tanks…and, the main tank itself did not leak down.

You have a so much more experience than me… do you think I have covered my bases? Any testing I have missed?

THANK YOU! Jeff…