Andre
Forum Replies Created
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Your best bet is to add a signature with your conversion info and year so people with like coaches can help..
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you still at jeff’s red? I’m hoping if you stay long enough, Jeff will meet his monthly quota for invoicing and I can slip in to get a deal on some work I need done 😉
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Try http://www.waytekwire.com , I have used them a number of times.
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Charles,
We stayed at a place pretty much right across the street from the park called Mesa Verde RV resort. It wasn’t anything fancy but it was one of the cleanest we have been in. Just be sure to tell them your size… some of the sites are smaller but they had saved us a larger site.
We loved Mesa Verde… we did the Balcony House and Cliff Palace tours and if your up for ladders and tight tunnels it was well worth it.
Bill
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“or they have some issues going on there.”
I believe we have a winner for the understatement of the week/
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DANSS
The ones PeterC described were not amber or colored they were white and not marker lights they are docking lights.
Having said that.. I’m not sure we’re discussing the same thing… also I don’t know your conversion or year as you don’t have it listed on the bottom of the page, it would help a lot if we knew that info… can you update you profile with that info, it makes a lot of difference when trying to help out.
Thanks… Diane
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Hi Harry,
Don’t use an extension, you’re on the right track. Go to the Depot and buy a piece of 3/4 pvc pipe and a connector. There’s your tool, slips right on the sensor. Or, you can get one from Pressure Pro for 80.
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I had this happen to me and it was the breaker directly inline with the continuous solenoid and coming out of the inverter on the wall in the bay. It had tripped and it is a very different kind of breaker switch. Once I re-set it the system came back online and all the lighting worked properly. The line of switches on the far right column did not work until the breaker was re-set. It is all of my interior lighting, aux pump and a few other items. They are all on the DC side of the panel. Not sure if this helps but I did have the same problem.
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I have been following this thread and reading comments about what happened. The one tool that has been responsible for more stripped threads is pictured below. It’s not the removal but the install under air pressure as the tech has no feel of what happening when the bolt meets the thread.
Most experienced techs have learned the hard way that when working around aluminum forged components the hand held ratchet is the tool of choice.
My advice to anyone having transmission service is to insist ‘ NO AIR TOOLS ALLOWED”
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What I find a shame is that they evidentally do not care about the sharing of information. I believe the mark of a true censorship free forum (aside from unsubstantiated spewing of hateful information) is one where everyone feels free to share information, whether good or bad and without fear of it being deletied even if it concerns one of its advertisers/partners. As Jon and others have so eloquently stated before, we all benefit from the shareing of information. What makes this forum enjoyable is the frequent bantering between members (although it seems as though Jon gets it from all angles…lol
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Since Prevost had several versions of slides and controls for slides they will have to be the ones for you to discuss this issue with, but on mine if I deflate the seals, trip the 5 or six breakers, I can manually run the slides in or out using the pendant located in the evaporator bay.
Do not take that as advice because yours may be different and you also must retract the pins at the valve otherwise you risk punching a hole in the slide glass with a pin. The point I am making however is there is a procedure and Prevost can tell you specifically what it is for your coach.
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Yes, raced SCCA in the seventies with a Lotus Elan, ran a couple races with P L Newman. Followed that with 33 years in the BMW club as driving instructor, probably 100 hours of track time at Road America for example. All done now.
Talk about nice people, I met Tom and Dorothy Young (2000 H3-45) from North Carolina a couple weeks ago in Calgary. He is only one year into his H experience, so I told him about our forum, and I think he will be getting on board soon.
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I wrapped all the exhaust from the manifold to the turbo when we got it so I am now removing the wrap to see if there are any leaks.The engine is actually very clean and the silver is in great condition. I do not see any soot on the battery side manifold so I will go under and check the radiator side manifold as well.
I am also going to pull the turbo inlet hose and see if it spins free and smooth.
By the previous post, it sounds like the boost should be up around 20 lbs. and if the pyrometer readings don’t go higher than 1100 at that boost, that is what I am going to try and achieve.
Jon, the low end power use to be an issue,,, so much that the light would almost change before we could get through it. But now that the performance module is installed inline with the boost sensor it comes alive off the line. It feels like it has more low end performance than a series 60. At least the two series 60 40 footers I test drove.
Thanks for the replies, hope I find a leak.
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Sid,
When you find out the price and the places that can do it… can you post it hear or drop me an email. I don’t have any problems but it’s on my list of things to ask about.. IE when is it recomended they be changed? When I was at Coburg they were doing one.. but I wasn’t sure if it was valid or Prevost…
Thanks
Bill
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I’ve been doing 8,000 mile oil changes. All I can tell you is at 8,000 miles, just look at the color of the oil, it begs to be changed. I cut off a 55 gallon drum that slides under the pan and holds all the oil including filters.