Tony
Forum Replies Created
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Hi Robert,I’m a land lubber myself but certainly appreciate those who enjoy sailing and riding the high seas! You must have some incredible stories to tell and hope I meet you one day to hear them. That would be something I’d look forward too!
Thanks for your post,
Harry
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Kent,
What reaction does the Boost gauge have to the change from flat to grade? If the boost gauge does not move or moves less than in the past, that is an indicator (you do watch the gauges, right?). I’ve had a similar problem intermittantly and every time the boost gauge was not increasing. I’ve encountered the low power issue due to the a fuel filter restricting the flow of fuel. If you have changed both fuel and air filters I’m at a loss to explain where you might find a fix. Two things need to be present for proper combustion to occur. They would be fuel and air in the correct proportions, oh and along with them compression to make the fuel/air mix explode.
When you attempt to find a shop to diagnosis your problem make certain they understand your engine is a 2 cycle NOT a four cycle. Two cycle mechanics that know what they are doing are getting older and difficult to find.
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John, I can say for certain if the existing accumulator tank is not in line with the flush valve (mine is remotely located in the kitchen area) and has to push water through a convoluted path of 1/2″ water line the toilet will not flush properly. The small Shurflo pumps cannot deliver both volume and pressure at the same time, even if in line with the flush valve and that is the problem that required me to add the second accumulator.
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G0t tester! nice the way it changes colors for hot/red and Green= ground. No response on K1 pin either way on DDEC IV????engine ideling. Bob
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Here’s my take on the TECMA. We love it. As for M & C, you do not have to hook up the tank monitor feature, so you would not have that issue. Our’s works flawlessly. Best toilet every in all of the RV’s we have owned. The fact that everything is liquid by the time it reaches the black tank means that you should never have an issue of a blocked valve or partial open valve due to solids/paper stuck to valves.
Our change out was from a Microphor but the process is the same. Water source and 12v power supply is all you need.
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thoes mikes are supposed to be miles sorry for any confusion. Ran it 2800 miles on vacation and now at Prevost Ft. Worth for a check up just to look and be sure there are no more issues.
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A worn cam and associated parts is a serious issue and I wonder if it started with a lubrication problem?
Is anything being done to get the metal out of the engine prior to the return for service?
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If you have what is a standard 30 amp receptacle it will have 3 wires going to it, a hot, neutral and ground. It will be 120 volts. If you use an adapter to your normal 50 amp cable those 30 amps and 120 volts will power both legs of your electrical system so any loads typically powered up are drawing from that 30 amp source regardless of which leg they are on.
It may be possible with your coach you have loads such as inverters, plus other not recognized loads such as power to the TVs used to retain memory, refrigerator, etc. When you add a charger that is trying to recharge nearly dead batteries the total load can go up and trip breakers at the source.
You may have to do some power management to keep the total current draw below 30 amps (consider 24 amps a good limit) when you need to charge batteries. Aging batteries, house and chassis are going to pull more charging current when they are drawn down so that might contribute. At the age you said, especially if they have had a history of deep discharge might well be the end of life for your batteries.
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Mark,
Margrit says hi back to you and C. Ran into a couple of nice guys at Prevost who said they knew you a few months back, Tom and Bill.I guess it will be this afternoon before they get us in the shop. They are switching out a Cat/ZF combo with a DD/Allison on a bus. Gave me a chance to go over the coach with the waterless wash–ran into a lot of rain out of Fayetteville yesterday.
They do not have plug-ins here, but will run a 15 Amp cord so at least we can run the refrigerator–I’ll just shut down everything else in the coach while they are working on it. -
My XLII has an intermittent setting, slow and fast. Are you saying you have the intermittent, slow, medium, and high?
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I bet on needing replacement. They have a 5 year or 10 year life and they
squak at the end of life..
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Glen, I read on another post that your blower is being rebuilt or replaced. I assume this was the reason for your oil loss. Please keep us posted as to what they do to the blower as well as results. I am really happy that it wasn’t something internal! Thanks, Jeff
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Greg,
Your coach like mine could fall one way or another regarding if it is a “pinless” slide or not.
I will tell you how I would deal with your issue on my coach, but just so you are clear on this do not believe a word I am telling you without verify it because I will bear no responsibility if your locking pins fire at the wrong time and do $40,000 worth of damage.
In the bay with the slide controls if you have the locking pin slides (your slide room will have pockets in the side outside panels into which the pins slide when the room is in) there will be a pneumatic control assembly. To the top and left of that will be a red knob that when turned 90 degrees deflates the slide seals. If you attempt to move the slide without deflating the slide seal the seal will be damaged.
Next to that is a valve assembly and the two of the valves control the slide room pins. On the face of the valves there will be some letters to denote what the valves control. Identify the valve for the slide room pins that correspond to the slide you want to move. I am not telling you which one because I want you to know for sure which one is the correct one and you need to either pull up the service manual for your VIN or talk to a Prevost representative to insure you are doing this right. (Did I mention how expensive it gets if you have the pins misfire or you tear up a slide seal?)
When you identify the correct pin actuating valve there is a white slotted button on the front. When you turn that button the pins will retract and they cannot accidently fire or engage.
With the seal deflated, and the pins retracted if your vintage coach is like mine you have a pendant in the bay that has switches on it. That pendant allows you to press the appropriate button and manually operate the slide room motor to move the slide in or out.
If you do not have the pendant, you can access the rear of the slide gear motor and using a socket over the hex shaft sticking out you can turn the motor by hand (a slow process, but it works) to move the slide in or out.
It is not difficult to do as I described and if you do it right you have complete control. But if you do it wrong I think I mentioned how bad things might go.
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By the way, are we in agreement that the cruse and jake brake not working and the 55 mph are all related to code 63 are?
Harry