Tim
Forum Replies Created
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On fuel filters…..
Going to your NAPA jobber, ask to see the Wix filter catalog. With that and the Wix filter number you can determine what strength do you wish to catch trash in the filter.
Filters all rated in microns
Wix carries a serious amount of speciality filters ie. extended length to increase amount of oil in system capacity.
Post if you have any questions.
FYI…Detroit Diesel branded are bid manufactured. Sooooo you have no idea who won the bid.
If you stick with WIX you’ll get a quality filter, well built for your application.
AL
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Thank you for the replies. I think what I what to do is replace everything under the coach, both front and back. I will definitely use the compression fittings. Having read many threads on the topic, I think I know the answer to the following, but I should probably check to be sure. How many Norgren valves are there, five port and three port and where are they located. I believe there is only one R-12 valve, where is this located? I know the ride height valves are in front of the duals in the back, how about the one in front?
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Jon, I have replaced one or two valves but not ride height.
Do you think it is back-feed from the 5-port valves? At max height the ride height valves would be in dump position so any air presented to them would exhaust
Any thoughts appreciated.
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One of the reasons I’m going Lithium when my batteries time out is to double my amp-hrs and half my weight. But a significant benefit is to be able to dry camp overnight without concern with running the Webasto and other night time loads.
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I’ve worn a Lifeline Tee shirt and an ETLC tee shirt.
I have been so desperate that now people are feeling sorry for my lack of my share of the dues money they are starting to provide me with clothes.
Too cold for Di”s vegetable stand so she is on a corner in Knoxville with a white cane, dark glasses and a tin cup.
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At this point, I have advised him to switch the shore power breaker off and do not under any circumstances start the generator until we can get it sorted out.
JC
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The cost is only about 500
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The door lock is “Fridge Fixer”. It does not work with side by side refrigerators.
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Excellent news.
How come nothing ever breaks at home?
Never mind. We don’t drive our coaches at home.
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GMJDW,
You asked about where errors come from. Here is a basic overview of my system on a 2000 Marathon. I have two trace inverters SW4024MC2 in my Marathon. In the battery bay there are a series of current transducers mounted to vertical wall. These transducers are measuring the voltages for inverters, 12 house, and 24 house. Connected to these transducers are signal cabling that report back to Marathon displays and inverters. There is also a wire (yellow) that records the battery temperature for the inverters to make adjustments in charging cycle.
Your system will be different but should have a reporting method back to inverters and coach displays.
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Ive been doing tons of research on repower to a Series 60. I know a lot of folks in the coach building world and they all say it’s not practical. We have yet to find a coach that to us is as pretty, equipped or laid out as well as our Custom Coach so it’s been a struggle to find something to replace her. (lot’s of real teak, piano hinges, polished brass, etc.) A buddy of mine has done a couple repowers with a modified Series 60 that has a stepped down valve cover but again he says it was a HUGE undertaking that he would not recommend since everything else has to change as well: trans, wiring, etc.
He did suggest I talk to the folks at ABC in Florida about a possible Cummins retrofit, but I’ve yet to get a real response from anyone over there.
If anyone does have any positive tales of retrofit repower, I’d like to hear because I’d love to have this old glorious coach of ours still be a viable means of transportation and not just a pretty relic.
Thanks
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Well then he should have been a little more off than moron.
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Just found a direct replacement online at MOR Electric Heating for $120
Chuck
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David,
Yes, I think the 8,000lb Nighthawk will be fine. I, too, wanted the 10,000lb unit for safety but the factory salesman talked down to the 8,000lb unit. He said it was quite a bit lighter than the 10k one and very adequate. I have towed my Jeep that weights in at 6k, no problem.
My Escalade is the ESV model and weights just a little over 6k. I have yet to tow it.
Here is the list of parts I installed:
RM-523179-5, Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit – Removable Arms
RM-766, Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect Switch
RM-152, Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit
RM-792, Roadmaster Hy-Power Diode (qty 2 in package)
RM-790, Roadmaster Hy-Power Diode (qty 1)
RM-910030–7, Roadmaster 6-Wire Trailer Connector – Trailer End
SM99209, SMI Second Vehicle Kit for Air Force One Supplemental Braking System
I had Don’s Auto Air and Automotive, a small shop here in Springfield, Missouri do the install. Shop rate is $75 per hour ( I think they are underpriced). I had them work on my coach’s dash air, and was very impressed with their work.
Everything is pretty straight forward. On the Base Plate we repositioned the break away switch.
There is what looks like a second battery well on the driver side (no battery) that my Air Force One control unity fit nicely and was Velcroed down.
The Escalade has separate brake and turn signals, just like the coach. To make those work separately you need two of the extra three Diodes I bought. The tail, stop, and brake lights are easy to splice into at the rear sides of the Escalade and the Diodes mount to the inside of the body.
The Battery Disconnect Switch is mounted on the passenger side next to the battery. With the small push button switch mounted on a flat surface left of the steering column.
I believe that is everything except the third diode. When I hooked up the electrical and the air everything worked properly except the upper third brake light. The third brake light is NOT factory wired to the side brake lights. Back to the shop. Ordered another Diode. We were able to splice into that signal from a controller under the dash, install the third Diode and run a wire to the front and splice into the brake signal. Now everything, including the third brake light is working correctly.
If your techs need additional information I’m happy to supply you with a name and phone number of the tech that did ours. He is the shop owner.
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It is a BIG DEAL!
The link to Diamond’s website from the Advertiser section of the PC website doesn’t seem to work.