[kenneth]

I have not had a Roadmaster, but my BlueOx stuff has been bulletproof. I have towed Tahoes, a F150 Super Crew, and a Jeep and the only issue I ever had was that the older tow bars would sometimes lock up a bit if you were crooked when you tried to unhook. The new bar does not have that problem.

In reality, both should do the job. I guess get what you like the best.

[Jim]

I’ve been using the Roadmaster for around 9 years, towing a fairly heavy Ram crewcab 4×4, hemi.

No issues.

[Jeff]

Towed a Jeep Grand Cherokee to Alaska and back with a Roadmaster. Took some unplanned abuse from the frost heaves. Made it through with no problems.
Wouldn’t hesitate to recommend the Roadmaster.

Chuck

[Archived]

I have owned both. Currently using a Roadmaster and like it much better. Either will do nicely. It is my understanding the Blue Ox’s are welded in India and assembled here, where as Roadmaster’s are made here with the exception of the bolts and they are from Taiwan. I have an 8,000lb Nighthawk with the cables and light cord in the arms of the tow bar. This makes for a fast connect and disconnect. It is a little awkward when taking off the coach.

The main difference that I can recall is the Blue Ox want their units to be factory serviced every few years and Roadmaster say to just keep the arms clean and lubricated. They sell a cleaner and a lubricant.

[DON]

Ditto on Roadmaster All Terrain. Bulletproof and never locks up preventing an easy release.

[Ronald]

I’ve had both, but now I’m a Roadmaster fan, heavier pins and base plates and the ability to run my safety cable and light cord inside the built in channels instead of having everything dangling and flopping around.

[Archived]

Our biggest issue with Blue Ox is the “removable tab wiggle.” Telescoping towbar arms out, the exponential “towed wander” from SLOP in hitch receiver, SLOP at claw connection, SLOP in removable tab sockets, your towed car can sashay side to side, as ours does, as much a three inches. We tow GMC Denali with Blue Ox Avail 10K bar and the slop causes truck to ”SLAM” sideways depending on road surface. We tow 2004 Land Rover Discovery with Roadmaster baseplate with adaptor to BO Avail, which has less slop. Never had this issue as as bad with previous BO baseplates that had “fixed” tab (non removable). Do get the attraction to removable tabs. We will go total Roadmaster in th3 future. Part of the issue is sloppy hitch receivers. Back in the the day while “dad” towed the family Airstream, 1970’s, it was my job to place ball mount into receiver on tow car. At times, the difference between shank sliding into receiver or NOT, was the rust or lack of on the shank. Why do today’s shanks fit so loosely

[Bill]

We have had both Blue Ox and now Roadmaster. Both are good.

The Roadmaster has more ‘stuff’ attached to the front of the tow car. But, it all removes nicely for a clean look.

I like the ease of the Roadmaster to disconnect if the car is not angled just right. The Blue Ox would not release without a hammer and a rod to push the pin out. The new ones might be different as ours was purchased in 2007.

When we outfitted the Lincoln to be towed in 2017, the installer put on Roadmaster equipment (baseplate, etc.) along with a new Roadmster tow bar.

The only thing that gives me trouble is the weight of the equipment that I have to remove from the front of the tow vehicle. I have lower back problems and lifting the tub once all of the equipment is loaded is difficult sometimes. Ouch!

Safe travels,
Mark

[Bill]

For many of the reasons cited above, I use BlueOx base plates and a Roadmaster tow bar equipped with BlueOx ends.

It gives me all the features of the Roadmaster tow bar plus the neater and more discrete components attached to the toad.

I’ve done this for 15 years without complaint.

[Joe]

I can only say that I had a Roadmaster tow bar (towing heavy van) come apart from a bad weld. I replaced with a Blue Ox, towed another 100,000 miles and replaced with new Blue Ox. I was given a credit for the trade-in and I still have that one which is approaching another 100,000 miles. I will replace this one, should it appear necessary with another Blue Ox.

[Mark]

David,

I just installed a Roadmaster base plate on a Escalade. If you do not already have one on your Escalade. I would be happy to share what I used and learned.

[Larry]

Hello Roy,

Yes, please share all you can. I have decided on a Roadmaster Nighthawk (8000 lbs).

I was going to order myself, but decided to have it installed by J and I hitch in OKC.

I believe my Escaladed is 5200 to 5800 lbs and may have 500 lbs in the car of misc items.

I am planning on weighing it this week to be exact.

Do you think the 8000 llb unit is adequate?

Thanks

[ed]

The Nighthawk looks good and adequate.

We started 4 down towing our 4500 lb FJ Cruiser with an adequate 6k# Roadmaster Falcon 2. We still have it. We occasionally lend it to a neighbor who destroyed his towbar.

Eventually we upgraded to the Roadmaster 10k# All Terrain Blackhawk 2.

No issues with either.

If we ever start towing our Yukon 4 down, we’ll utilize the Blackhawk.

These days, when the FJ goes with us, it’s usually in our enclosed trailer.

[Archived]

I use a Roadmaster All Terrain 10,000. I have had it for 15 years. Had it rebuilt once by Roadmaster and prefer it over the Blue Ox bars.

[Tim]

David,

Yes, I think the 8,000lb Nighthawk will be fine. I, too, wanted the 10,000lb unit for safety but the factory salesman talked down to the 8,000lb unit. He said it was quite a bit lighter than the 10k one and very adequate. I have towed my Jeep that weights in at 6k, no problem.

My Escalade is the ESV model and weights just a little over 6k. I have yet to tow it.

Here is the list of parts I installed:

RM-523179-5, Roadmaster Direct-Connect Base Plate Kit – Removable Arms

RM-766, Roadmaster Automatic Battery Disconnect Switch

RM-152, Roadmaster Universal Hy-Power Diode Wiring Kit

RM-792, Roadmaster Hy-Power Diode (qty 2 in package)

RM-790, Roadmaster Hy-Power Diode (qty 1)

RM-910030–7, Roadmaster 6-Wire Trailer Connector – Trailer End

SM99209, SMI Second Vehicle Kit for Air Force One Supplemental Braking System

I had Don’s Auto Air and Automotive, a small shop here in Springfield, Missouri do the install. Shop rate is $75 per hour ( I think they are underpriced). I had them work on my coach’s dash air, and was very impressed with their work.

Everything is pretty straight forward. On the Base Plate we repositioned the break away switch.

There is what looks like a second battery well on the driver side (no battery) that my Air Force One control unity fit nicely and was Velcroed down.

The Escalade has separate brake and turn signals, just like the coach. To make those work separately you need two of the extra three Diodes I bought. The tail, stop, and brake lights are easy to splice into at the rear sides of the Escalade and the Diodes mount to the inside of the body.

The Battery Disconnect Switch is mounted on the passenger side next to the battery. With the small push button switch mounted on a flat surface left of the steering column.

I believe that is everything except the third diode. When I hooked up the electrical and the air everything worked properly except the upper third brake light. The third brake light is NOT factory wired to the side brake lights. Back to the shop. Ordered another Diode. We were able to splice into that signal from a controller under the dash, install the third Diode and run a wire to the front and splice into the brake signal. Now everything, including the third brake light is working correctly.

If your techs need additional information I’m happy to supply you with a name and phone number of the tech that did ours. He is the shop owner.