Scott
Forum Replies Created
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What is the nature of the problem?
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I have gone through starting water flow from the pump when it has lost its prime on several occasions. I have had my pump and water tank out of my coaches often enough to know the drill.
If I know everything is drained, including the pump, I just open a faucet upstairs so gravity can do its work. I then start filling the water tank. The level of the water will get to a point where it is completely above the pump. At that point I close the faucet and start the pump. It has never failed to prime regardless of the type pump I am using and I have done this on the Groco, Headhunter, and the Shurflo pumps. Water seeks its level so as the tank is filling the air in it is displaced as long as it has a path to flow and that is provided by opening the faucet.
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I second Jons opinion on the radiator. I accidently hit a radiator (automotive) with a pressure washer, through the grille. Buried in my tools I found an assortment of radiator combs to straighten damaged fins………that was really ugly. Having never really done that before it took hours and even then the job turned out mediocre at best….kind of like eating a bowl of soup with a fork. Stay away from the radiator!!
Personally I would advise Simple Green Aircraft for anything in the engine and transmixer department. I think that it is stronger than regular Simple Green and you can pretty much put it on anything, save electrical stuff. Couple of big parts cleaning brushes helps with the extra crud.
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You’ll want to reseal each seam, rivet, etc. that appears to be problematic. Then I would suggest doing what is photographed below. Painting the roof adds an extra layer of sealant, as well as eliminate any of the chalky white power running down the side of your bus. Plus it really cleans up the roof and looks good! Make sure that you, at a minimum, scuff the roof so the new paint sticks.
– Kyle
Above is a 1996 XLII. Below is a 2003 H3-45
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sorry I missed your post yesterday we were traveling to Jeff’s to pick up our coach. Mine is a silver 09, I will confess to 100+ or – and leave it at that.
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Oh come on Jon , you know that there arent many people out there that could be any simpler than good old Tommy boy !
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Congratulations David and Judy, Yippe, another Beaver Bus. If you would like, I can include your info on our spreadsheet of the 23 busses I have found and email you one so you can see where we all are so far. Your floorplan is like ours, with two exceptions,. You have a really neat window in the hallway that makes so jenvious, and a window at the kitchen sink. Again congrats to you both.
As to the chip your talking about, Leon Carlson was not clear what wasn’t working when I spoke with him Does this coach have the lighting computer or are you talking about the Command Center overhead of driver?
our etched and tinted side widows were done in Bend. The window ttint place according the guys in parts at Beaver Coach sales is still around. Don’t know if the etching was done by them. I can locate our original tinting invoice for th name if you like,. Heres a number 303-907-4746
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Jerry,
The most effective way to isolate leaks is to develop a basic understanding of your coach pneumatic system. Keep in mind that with the key off your suspension systems are isolated from the balance of the aux air at the 5 port Norgren valves. That means that leaking aux pressure is unrelated to the leans. Fixing either one will not cure the other.
I am not familiar with how Vantare sets up their portion, including the aux compressor, but for a leak in the aix system as you describe I almost believe it can be heard. 30 minutes is a very short period of time for an air loss with a starting pressure of 120 PSI. The first place I would look would be for a failed aux compressor check valve, then at the air regulator(s) in the rear for belt tensioning, and most definitely at the generator air bag circuit. That also should have a check valve and if it leaks down that makes it highly suspect.
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Michael,
I bought Invisable Chambois years ago and it’s worked well, but I wouldn’t do it again. It has to be sent back for recharge and there are much better ways with the ones you can recharge yourself.
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One thing I am very pleased to have seen on this thread is an exchange of information about the thought behind system designs.
In many discussions on this forum we talk about diagnosing systems and trying to figure out why things are as they are. On this thread we have had the rare treat of having two well respected converters sharing information about their systems and the underlying reasons for the designs. Great information guys.
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Sounds like JDUB is planning on bringing his checkbook……
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Great advice!
I just had a personal experience just 3 weeks ago with my Roadmaster Tow Bar. It had started getting real hard to release and retract the shafts to hook or unhook the Jeep. The stainless shafts would not slide back and forth freely. I tried lubricating with Silicone, that didn’t work, tried WD-40 (even though Roadmaster said not to), and I still had trouble. Could not hardly (with a rubber hammer) knock them in and out.
Anyway, unhooking with everything in a bind was tough, and somehow, the towbar fell on top of my foot! Wow what a pain, broke a bone in my foot.
SO, I took the tow bar apart, and found that some fiber wafer type washers/wipers had expanded and were siezing up against the aluminum housing, because water and dirt had gotten in there over the 12 years that I have had it. Nothing was bent though as everyone was suggesting. They do not make the aluminum ones any longer, I can see why.
Annway, bought a new one, and I promise, this one will get extra loving care, like the rest of the bus does!
SERVICE YOUR TOW BAR!
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It’s too bad that stuff like this has to happen!!! But with that said I’m not renewing my membership either. Tom sorry that I didn’t get back to you on the batteries but was in a real hurry to get back on the road. I’m in St. Paul heading to Texas
Sid Tuls