[Archived]

That’s how I do it.

I use Simple Green or its equivalent. I spray it on, use a soft brush to work it in and rinse with a gently flowing hose. Simple Green is damaging to aluminum if it is allowed to remain on the surface so it needs to be rinsed quickly or the use of a Simple Green formulation for aviation purposes should be used.

Once an engine is clean and painted it is very easy to keep it clean. If it is caked with grease and dirt it is not so easy to get clean.

[John]

Thanks Jon, I was hoping I was doing it right.

I agree, keep it clean, then it’s easy.

[Archived]

You might want to try Simple Green for aircraft, does not damage aluminum. Great stuff can be mail ordered from Aircraft Spruce.

[Archived]

I was thinking about asking this same question about a week ago.

I am a bit hesitant to wash it down for faer of inducing all kinds of gremlins later on…corrosion from moisture in connections etc.

[joel]

The engine management computer on my vintage of S60 is not well protected. It’s fairly low on the right side (on mine) and should be protected. Saw one get fried on an H at the truck wash when they did the engine.

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1999 XLV X-6872,  liberty #440

[Joe]

I think exercising care to avoid soaking the electric connections is the only real precautionary steps you need to take.

I have in some cases just wrapped them in plastic and used wire ties, other times I just avoid aiming the water flow at them.

Johns illustration of the Simple Green type is what prevents damage or corrosion to aluminum parts like the valve cover.

Do not use a hard spray on the radiator. If you choose to clean and flush that be especially careful because the fins are fragile.

[Scott]

I second Jons opinion on the radiator. I accidently hit a radiator (automotive) with a pressure washer, through the grille. Buried in my tools I found an assortment of radiator combs to straighten damaged fins………that was really ugly. Having never really done that before it took hours and even then the job turned out mediocre at best….kind of like eating a bowl of soup with a fork. Stay away from the radiator!!

Personally I would advise Simple Green Aircraft for anything in the engine and transmixer department. I think that it is stronger than regular Simple Green and you can pretty much put it on anything, save electrical stuff. Couple of big parts cleaning brushes helps with the extra crud.

[Archived]

That’s what I’ll get, good idea. Aircraft Simple green.

Thanks for advice.

[Joe]

FWIW…..I would never ever, ever, ever allow a cleaning crew use a pressure washer in my engine compartment.

Just think about one short blast by mistake on alternator, electrical connector, ECU, it’s trouble.

Most components are built to protect from water while driving in rain. No way are they protected for a 1000 psi water blast.

I have not heard of Aircraft Simple Green but that sounds pretty good for all around use. I’ll check with NAPA.

[Archived]

I’ll go one step further than what Al posted. I don’t ever want a bus washing crew to ever wash my bus. They walk on the roof. They spray high pressure water into the seams of the skin and in places you do not want water driven under 1000 PSI. When they are done spraying water into places you don’t want water they squirt nasty stuff on the tires so they shine and then when you drive that crap gets slung all over.

Thanks but no thanks. I need the exercise.

[Archived]

You heard it right folks, Jon needs exercise so be sure to let him wash your bus in OKC, we want to keep him healthy. You will have to leave while he’s washing your bus, the bubble music will drive you nuts.

[Archived]

Sign me up for Thurs. pm. I will furnish the cocktails.

[Corey]

I only wash my own, and then I need a nap.

And it now takes me two days to do it.

[Peter]

Unwashed but cocktails still available.

[Jerry]

I just washed my bus AND stacker, took me 3 hours!!!

I’m done, and beat

Not far from you Jon, at Jeff’s