[Georges]

I use the AirForce1 on my Tahoe and lke it. It too is permanently mounted and only involves an air line when hooking up. Others here I think have the M&G. Have you checked to see if the M&G will fit your application? It won’t fit on some vehicles due to clearance issues. I have never heard of the US Gear one.

[Archived]

I’ve installed the M & G on 3 different vehicles with no problem. Jeep Liberty, Avalanche and Dodge Dakota.

[Georges]

As I understand Buick Enclave and GMC Acadia are on the same platform. The M&G company does not make a brake for the above. This was in 2010 so we went for the Air Force One.

I’ve not heard of US Gear braking system.

AL

[Archived]

I’ve had Air Force One on my 2003 Ram 2500 since the POG rally in Sevierville, TN in 2007. It works great and can be removed for installation on the next generation of Toad vehicle. They also stand behind their product and are #1 in customer service. I know there are other former or current POGGERs that also had them installed at Sevierville, which is why I can comment on their customer service.

I first looked into M&G because I did not want the burden of hauling out and hooking up some portable device. M&G did not make a unit for my truck, no room when a HEMI is in the engine bay. It also looked as if there would be substantial rebending of the brake line connections to the master cylinder to do an M&G install if one was available. AF#1 is a much more simple install.

Hey Jon, time for you to add your opinion here.

I think Pete has retired and his son is now operating the business. Give them a call.

[Georges]

I have two opinions…….I think we need supplemental braking, if for no other reason than to minimize or avoid grief from law enforcement or victims we have rear ended. I have a dash cam for the same reason because far too many times I have had folks cut in too close and then for reasons I cannot imagine they step on their brakes. So while the use of supplemental braking systems are sold on the fact they reduce stopping distances, I have one because it makes me less of a target for law enforcement of lawyers.

At one time we towed a Ram 1500 and an H2 Hummer, neither of which was a lightweight. I used a Brakemaster because I could move it from vehicle to vehicle with no effort. Had I not had two potential two vehicles I likely would have used either of the two recommended, the M&G or the Air Force 1.

I don’t ever remember the tow bars or brake systems as outrageously expensive as they are today so before I went ahead and purchased one I would completely research what is out there and find out how easy or difficult they would be if you switched cars and if they had uses limited to specific vehicles.

[Archived]

Don,

Tried to send you a private message not sure if I did it correctly. We are looking at the Buick Enclave or the GMC Acaida as a new tow car and wanted to see how you liked it and what tow bar you used. We are going to be upgrading to an 07 Marathon and going to be setting the entire rig up so any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks

Bill

[Archived]

This is my opinion and based on what tow bars I see most often used I am out of step with the majority.

When we first started towing about 22 years ago one of the mantras was the tow bar had to be level. It was beaten into our heads by the tow bar manufacturers and magazines that specialized in RV matters. Tow bars that are not level when hooked up are dangerous according to the gospel in the 90s.

Of course back then in the olden days tow bars bolted on the front of the toad and the coach had a ball hitch, preferably one with drop or rise so the tow bar was level.

Today it seems everyone is using RV mounted tow bars with arms that get connected via pins to a receiver device mounted on the toad, and which are almost invisible when not in use.

I tried the tow bar that is RV mounted and to be honest it is a pain in the butt. We tow our H2 which is ugly to start with so having a tow bar mounted on it, or not mounted on it has no impact on the beauty of our H2. When I set it up for towing I was using a folding tow bar that drops over the ball on the hitch on the bus. On a recent trip I used a RV mounted tow bar and not only did I lack a means of leveling the tow bar, it was cumbersome to hook and unhook compared to the same tow bar, but toad mounted The tow bars in question are the Roadmaster All Terrain. The toad mounted is rated at 6000 and the RV mounted version is rated at 10,000 although there is no difference in the critical members.

So after one trip, I have gone back to my old standby, the toad mounted folding tow bar that drops over an adjustable height ball hitch mounted on the RV. Easy to use, fast to hook up and it give me the ability to mount it on any vehicle and adjust the ball height to suit to keep the bar level. When we are home I juust pull the tow bar off the H2 by pulling two pins and while it is still ugly, it doesn’t have the tow bar on the front looking like a battering ram.

[Archived]

After considerable research, and after a suggestion by a POG member, I selected a Demco tow bar (and an AF1 system). The reason for my choice was the 10500# rating (the highest I am aware of), but more important to me were two more features of the tow bar arms (this is coach mounted): the arms don’t drop to the ground when connecting or disconnecting, and the unit has the male insert for the 2X2 hitch reversible (with tools), so you vary the height of the coach end of the tow bars, and it includes mounting for the safety cables (included), air hose and electrical cable for the toad lights. Connecting pins were included as well. We use a Blue Ox tow plate on a 98 Cherokee, and the bars are essentially level (important, as Jon related). Take a look at the Demco site.

[Archived]

The big question is are they non-binding (all terrain)?

[Christopher]

Yes. Supposed to be. They have the quick trigger release handles too. Demco arms are completely independent of each other, and mount to a vertical pin at the hitch end. But my observation, inquiries, and experience is that all bars will bind at some point (here I mean the connecting pins at the toad end can’t be pulled by Popeye or the Hulk), unless perhaps one of the two vehicles has the brakes set and the other vehicle moved forward or back to release forces, with sufficient foul language and threats applied, and if one hasn’t experienced binding; wait.

Comments?

[Archived]

The “non binding” tow bars are probably exactly what they say. When a tow bar binds in my experience it has nothing to do with the release mechanism, and everything to do with the relationship between the bus and toad. I am not even concerned about uneven ground or if the bus and toad are at an angle relative to one another.

I have to lift the tow bar off the ball, but the priciple as relates to binding is exactly the same as on bus mounted bars with pins. To lift the bar off the ball there has to be no compressive or extension forces on the tow bar. In my case if the toad is pulling against the bus, I can release the folding tow bar latches, but because the toad is pulling against the bus (as in the case of when the ground slopes downward away from the bus) the tow bar cannot be lifted from the ball. If it was pins that needed to be pulled they would not pull out because the toad is pulling the arms and the friction makes it difficult to pull them.

So in that case I would put the toad in drive and let it push ahead slightly, then release the tow bar latches alowing the slight movement of the tow bar work in my favor so I could lift the tow bar from the ball or pull the pins.

No matter what the tow bar or who is using it any binding is likely a result of gravity and all it takes is a very little forward or rearward motion of the toad to compensate so the tow bar could be removed. Some designs I have seen are not the best and usually owners end up beating on them to get them to release when all that might be required is a slight motion of the toad, forward or back to let up on the tension.

[Archived]

I really qyestion the need for supplemental brake systems. see bottom of page 6 in the link below

http://prevostprouds.com/newsletters/november2007.pdf

What he says nakes sense to me.

[Bob]

Bill would probably have a different take on that these days. Does
stopping with Toad brakes help? Absolutely. I towed for years with no
Toad brakes until around 2009 and then tried the M & G and could
tell a difference. I live in hilly country and the Toad brakes help.
I also have piece of mind knowing I have done everything possible to
maintain safety while towing. Just cause an accident by not stopping
and see just how far the blood sucking Lawyers will go to prove you
were unsafe and/or negligent.

As for towbars, I just changed from Blue Ox to Roadmaster All
Terrain and will never go back. If you’re not dead straight with the
Blue OX, you’re going to fight with the pins. The All Terrain is the
way to go.

[Robert]

Tom: what do you mean by having to be straight with the Blue Ox? I don’t have any issues with mine and am not always straight when hooking or unhooking. Maybe I am missing something…..

[Bob]

Usually one of the release levers would be locked (pinched) if anything other than exactly straight. Sometimes just turning the wheel one way or the other was enough to release. It was a PIA and glad it’s gone. I always used Blue Ox, but have found the All Terrain much easier and it doesn’t bind.