Ronald
Forum Replies Created
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First, all our coaches with Level Low should provide a warning light to indicate the suspension controls are not in the driving or road position so if you have a coach without that warning light the coach needs to get fixed.
The speed with which some coaches raise is almost always influenced by the weight of the chassis at that position. Some coaches are not only at the Prevost axle weight limits, but are in excess of them. The air bags are sized for the axle weights and if the weights are exceeded it is going to take longer to lift that part of the coach. Typically that is at the front axle.
If that is the case you can either reduce the weight on that axle by removing your bales of Benjamins from the bays in that area, or if that is not practical in the case of the steer axle, lift the tag axle. Trying to raise the front can be done in a shorter period of time by lifting the tag. Another thing is to do it manually by waiting until the accessory system air pressure is highest, and as it drops, stop trying to lift, do what is necessary to drop accessory air pressure until it is at its maximum again and then continue adding more accessory air pressure to the air bags.
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I recommend going to all the sites with Prevost For Sale to get ideas.
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Someguy you wrote: “Regardless, I want to do a complete front to back refresh on the chassis and drivetrain, so that I never have problems when travelling. What items should be in my list and approximately how much would each cost for parts and labor ?”
Your approach is valid. As I stated above we bought your 1999 XLV in 2014 with 72,000 miles on it. Following the advice of Jon Wehrenberg and Jeff Rowe at East Tennesse Luxury coach we immediately zero’d out lots of stuff. I spent $30,000 before even driving it.
Jeff has “zero’d out” many coaches in the last 7 or 8 years he’s had his own shop. I’m sure he can give you a list. But from my experience if you’re looking at a coach with 700,000 miles on it … plan on at least $30,000 to as much as $50,000. But its possilbe you’ll find the coach has maintenance records and some things have been updated and changed out recently.
Someguy you also wrote: “Judging by the comments on a couple forumns it seems the H3-45s are built better than MCIs. Am I right?”
That’s a good question. Almost all the luxury motorcoach conversions have been done on Prevosts. There are very, very few MCI conversion done by the converter. How does the Prevost nationwide service network compare to the MCI service network? Which bus builder has more units in service? Prevost or MCI?
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Replaced mine a couple of yrs ago with a Camco Powergrip #55255 from amazon.
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No aircraft, but agree with JC Jr. we own a 1970 E-Type drophead coupe. We call it Miss Kitty. Jon got a ride in it 8 years ago
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You can remove the smx touch panel and switch it with another working unit to see if the problem follows the touch panel…As Jim said the control boards are in the 1st bay…you can pull the cover off and verify power there…might want to power it down while pulling the cover off…
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I just experienced the same leak ….It’s pretty easy to rebuilt the diaphragm valve (kit is $15) ..
um make sure you block it up for safety before you go under it!!
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Ron,
BFG is included in our pricing along with all Michelin vehicle tires. I’ll have the cost for 315 and 365’s tomorrow for reference, but you can price any type of tire you may need, auto, truck, golf car, etc.
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AHA! I never use my auto-level…not sure if it works. I’ve been fighting a right rear leak for about a year. Sometimes it’s fast (8-12 hours), sometimes slow (1-2 days).
What would be involved in simply eliminating auto level?
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We love our RV dogs, when they pass it breaks our hearts
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I’ll share what I’ve figured out so far about replacing the old style rectangular Robertshaw (discontinued) thermostat units. Camco still makes thermostats that are VISUALLY identical to the old ones, but they no longer make ones with the right temperature settings for the AquaHot. It looks like I don’t need to do this, but what I would try if I needed to, would be to take either the original thermostat, or a new Camco thermostat, like 07843 ($16 on Amazon) and remove the thermostat units from their aluminum frame, and then mount the new snap disc type thermostats in the old frame. I’m sure it would take a little engineering/fabricating, and a few new holes, screws or rivets, but it seems possible and the parts are cheap enough that if I messed one up, I just try again. Then the frame could be mounted on the AquaHot using the original mounting stud on the tank. The control thermostat looks to me like a 6UEA3 (150 close / 190 open) and sells for around $12. from Grainger or other sources. Again, I haven’t tried this, but it’s what I would do if it turns out one of my old-style thermostats is truly bad.
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Take it off and go to a NAPA store, they can most likely find one.
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It could also be your air horn.
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That’s disaapointing to hear.
If we take our coach to the Green Bay/Door county area … I’ll stop there and talk to them. Maybe if they see the coach, they might change their mind.
I suspect (and its only my “suspect”) that non-coach shops are reluctant because they look where the CAs are and just dread getting to them … behind the bumper, behind the entertainment center, etc.
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Thanks this picture is from my bus