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Forum Replies Created
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Larry
I’m in 155 and Steve is in 156.
If the lights are on come on by.
Later
bv
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I know this thread was about “GPS” units, but the common theme is “navigation.”
Any suggestions on the best Atlas you can use that will help navigate the highways & byways, especially when it comes to height restrictions.
I think we’ll just use Google Maps on our IPhone/IPads to supplement the Atlas.
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Ours is a 2003 Marathon XLii non-slide but we have been happy with the coach, its design, and the systems. Marathon offers great tech support well beyond the first owner. I don’t know a thing about this coach but would buy another Marathon. Hope this helps.
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Here are some pics of the 30 micron primary fuel filter(Racor 1000FG) with drop-in element, the seal kit, and the 10 micron secondary spin-on filter that is located on the engine next to the oil pan on curbside.
Here are some different brand part #s that will work:
For the drop-in element Racor 1000FG housing: a) Racor 2020PM-OR; b) Fleetgaurd FS20203; c) Baldwin PF7890-30.
Use Racor seal kit# RK 11-1404.For spin-on secondary: a) Fleetgaurd FF5206, b) Baldwin BF 5810; c) Wix 33120; d) Donaldson P556916; e) Fram P1147G
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Jon mentioned algae.
Especially in hot and humid climates, the slightest bit of algae can “bloom” quickly in to a big problem. If the coach had been sitting around for any period prior to this trip, algae could indeed be clogging your fuel filters. Your symptoms sure sound like it.
Since I mostly travel in the Southeast region, I routinely use Biobor JF with each fillup to prevent algae. It only took me one time to have the problem and months to correct it to realize that prevention is much better than correction. Even though I usually travel every week, filling up every week, I am always concerned with the potential to clog filters. Our coach is sitting at Jeff’s shop waiting on parts. I am very glad that my fuel tank is treated with Biobor JF. I have little concern about algae building up while the coach sits in hot and humid eastern TN weather.
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Regardless of whether a vehicle is a car, boat, plane or bus the best maintenance is “progressive”, meaning it is an ongoing process in which scheduled maintenance is done when required, and repairs are not deferred, but are taken care of as soon as the need arises.
I am certain I have wasted a lot of money over the years by changing parts based on when I think their life is almost over. For example I am not going to wait until and air bag or brake chamber shows signs of leaking or imminent failure because I do not want to deal with such a repair while on the road. So as a result I throw away parts I replace when I think they have outlived their usefullness even though they may have a lot of life remaining. The same is true of tires and batteries. The bad news is my maintenance cost is likely higher than it should be.
The good news is I am rarely surprised. As a result my annual maintenance cost is quite predictable, and I can easily forecast what I am going to spend each year. I have said it before, but will again make the point. Based on the age of my coaches, so far I have never spent more for maintenance or fuel combined than I have lost on depreciation, the point being a bus is expensive by any unit of measurement.
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The key to keeping a coach cool is to start with one that is already cool.
My battle with heat also involves not cooling places that don’t need it.
For example, at night I use the fore and aft units. Then when I am up and done in the bedroom I switch to the port and starboard units. If the sun starts to heat up the front because of the privacy shades I go to the front and port units. Just before bed when it is cooling down outside I shut down the starboard unit, and turn on the aft. Notice the combinations are always on separate legs. By doing that I can leave the coffee maker on and make a cup anytime, I can leave the HW heater on, the water pump, the compressor, and the washer and dryer that I use to dry towels. I still have some margin if I want to add the third AC, but I probably will turn off the HW heater, the W/D and maybe the compressor. I will also limit the use of lights.
If I have the generator running I turn on everything and anything.
It’s not about being perfect, but about anticipating what might happen if we push the campground power. So often we are doing a happy dance it we actually have power stay at 125 or so even when we load the circuit.As we impose greater loads the voltage goes down usually, and when that happens the current draw increases and the result is a tripped breaker, as much because of poor quality service as an overload on our part.
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You will have to write this one in: Water filters – system and refrigerator, a/c filters, plus cleaning the dust and lint off the back and bottom of the refrigerator.
it never ends
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Jeff mostly works on conversion stuff. I do have some of that stuff that I will probably get his help with. This other stuff is mechanical, which is not his specialty. I’ve been to his shop quite a few times for things. Very handy to have so close.
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What’s the cost and how does this steel band react with an aluminum rim?
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Good point Jon …
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Hey Bonz,
Your link takes us to the seat company. Are you in the wine already?
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Tom;
I’ll check with my NASA buddies about that “space debris”, but I can’t make any promises. If I try to influence them too much, they won’t let me drive the Mars Rover again.
I don’t think it was space debris that hit you, I saw a buzzard looking for a meal fly into your window thinking your bus was his next meal.
You really need a Country Coach.
Michael
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Jon, the guy did say something else. He said that there was some switch that would keep my inverter from kicking off at low voltage. I don’t understand what that means. I have a single button on my panel to turn the inverter off and on. It lights red if using inverter power, and blinks if on generator.
On the panel in the bay, there is a switch like a light switch, that says Inverter Circuits. I don’t know why this switch is there, but the inverter won’t work if it is switched off.
On the same panel is another light switch that says radiator fan. It turns off the squirrel cage fan on the generator. I don’t know why I would ever need to do that either.