[Paul]

Now that all of us have had the benefit of Robert Hitt explaining about our suspension system, leaks, and trouble shooting he makes it clear that the “ping” tanks on our suspension could just as easily have plugs in place of the drain valves because of the lack of need to drain them.

If anyone does have any trouble with the valves it is likely just as easy to put in a plug rather than a new drain valve.

[Paul]

Come on to the coach display, look at the coaches for sale, meet fellow PC members, look at their coaches and ask a lot of questions. No better time or place.

[Paul]

Fly U, I’m not saying I disagree, but you are really swimming upstream when you take on our culture’s demand for newer, bigger, brighter, better, etc. I guess if our culture valued a more zen-like existence we would all be swapping info about our class-B Roadteks or, heaven forbid, our gigantic 24 foot Sprinter based Winnebagos.

Given the level of erudition exhibited on this site, I think this group is among those best able to withstand the wiles of Madison Avenue. In fact, I believe most advertising is focused on influencing the unthinking masses. Exhibit A is the label on this washer fluid I bought this weekend, which, by the way, contains NO anti-freeze:

[Paul]

Capitalisim is alive and well in the good ole USA!

[Paul]

Since Kohler now calls for 250 Hours oil changes I try to do it between75-150 but once a year I go to Louisville in August and I just ran 193 hours while there.When I got home I changed air,oil and fuel filters and of course the oil,the belt had about 450 hours on it and it was cracked every inch or so and it got replaced also.

[Paul]

Michael,

Yes, you are correct. The Counts of 255 = 70 degrees, and the counts number goes down at the battery & ambient temperature go up. Sounds like you are seeing normal operation.

Ben @ Parliament Motor Coach

[Paul]

Remember that the Chassis battery wiring was done by Prevost, not Vantare. Only a few connections were added by Vantare:

Gen battery boost, Guest Marine charger (which have fuses at the end of the leads that connect to the chassis batteries), and the alternator charge line to the starter is altered to add the dual battery isolator.

Gil is correct, the battery temperature sensors were not originally installed on the same battery, and that is a definite change that should be made. If they are on the same battery, their adjustment to charge voltage for each corresponding inverter will be the same, and will prevent a “conflict” in having both inverters charge the same battery bank. They should not be removed or disconnected, as some technicians baffled by the operation tend to do with or without asking. If they are both installed and operating to adjust inverter charging per unit of temperature, the inverters will not overcharge the batteries. The charging amps settings then do not need to be adjusted from the factory defaults, and all will be well. If one charger is essentially disabled, bare in mind that the recharge time will be SIGNIFICANTLY longer for such a large battery bank like Vantare coaches all have.

As for the circuit protection issues Gil brought up, remember that Vantare’s have the engine battery boost feature, and in cold weather a Series 60 can draw in excess of 500 amps to start, not counting a higher “in-rush” to the series-wound starter motor, plus the current going to the dead starting batteries themselves. Any added fuses should account for this or the risk exists that during a “jump start” exercise the fuse protection would blow, essentially “killing” the house power into the coach altogether.

Also, realize that there were alterations made as time went on and the NEC requirements changed. During that period, there was allowance for the amount of “distance” from the batteries to the circuit protection where required. All the cabling and busbars were in the same area on most coaches (over the passenger-side wheel well on H3-45 slideout coaches), and were made up as an “assembly” in PVC piping off-coach, then installed and connected to the batteries and busbars in the coach. This was done to ensure that chaffing or damage did not occur to the wiring.

[Paul]

Brian,

You aren’t going to be wrong no matter what your choices because this will be YOUR coach and YOUR adventure. As long as you stay within the specified weight limits you are doing it right.

And over time you will change and that is perfectly normal. We used to carry enough spare parts to rebuild the coach, but now we carry a cell phone. My point being what works for us isn’t always an inflexible choice.

[Paul]

Brian, Welcome!

IMO, it is personal preference on choosing between an XLII and an H3. Both are great, and both have pros and cons.

The XL’s have a nostalgic look to me, some like the driver on the same level as the passenger.

I personally do like the bays better on an H, and I prefer the Style of the H, but I certainly like all of them. Height has not been a problem for me, which is 13’2″ to the top of the sat dome.

Either one is a great choice, you will love how they drive and handle, and the quality of the chassis is amazing compared to other coaches.

There have been many discussions on the forums, do a search, and you can see plenty……

Good luck!

[Paul]

Al,

I love the idea of HHI…. Jon, Tom we are owners there and we could certainly try to help with details. They have a great clubhouse that we could use for meals/ functions etc.

Do you always have the rally the same time of year?

Bill

[Paul]

Jon, Thanks for the reply, You are the best! I did get the Norgren apart and it looks to be in good shape internally other than the o-rings had shrunk. I found two over the tag axle. The one leaking was for the rear air bags. Not sure if the other one controls the front air bags or not. Going to take it down and check it out while I’m up to my elbows in grease! I looked at the drawing but can’t tell if there are any more for the air system. Don’t see any others at the rear. Not sure if any are in the front of the coach!

[Paul]

Listen if I could get in on the draft i could probly be able to go. were could i get in line ill be comming out of DeLeon Springs , Fl about 1500 miles all up hill ? Down here we cook our bugs on a grill with lemon butter. but we have no claws .

[Paul]

This can happen in high humidity conditions when you have the fan set to “auto”. Let the unit defrost and try setting the fan to low or, better yet, high and see it it happens again. If so, you are probably correct that it’s low on refrigerant.

[Paul]

First thanks for the suggestions. The short form is that this was a ground reference issue and not a safety issue thanks in large part to the design of the coach electrical system but thanks for the constant safety reminder Jon.

The longer version.

Yes Gill, I was comparing reading taken between the battery positive and negative terminals and those taken between the 12 volt positive and ground buss bars that are part of the bass electrical distribution panel. Yesterday those reading differed by 0.8 volts.

Today I made 50 ft jumper and attached one end to the main chassis ground where the batteries, both 2500 watt inverter grounds and their case grounds are attached to the chassis frame. Using this common reference point I got the same voltage readings at:

• the battery positive,
• the 12 volt main battery side of the fuse and load side of the fuse
• both side of the fuse protecting the 12 volt positive from the dedicated house alternator
• the 12 volt buss bar at the bass panel.

That indicated I had a ground issue. I did trace the 12 volt line between the batteries and the buss bar. I did not find any cracked insulation of other other issue. The bends were smooth radius and not rubbing at any transistition into and out of the raceways. It looked good.

The design of the coach using chassis ground, does not use the bass ground buss bar for the main loads, thus no safety issues. The only loads on this buss bar are the DC breaker indicator lights and the DC voltmeter. The designer didn’t expect much load here either as the ground buss bar is connected to the bass panel with about a 10 ga wire and the bass panel is then connected to chassis ground by about an 8 ga wire.

I tightened multiple ground lugs on the bass panel and ever other connection I could get a screw driver on. After tightening the grounds I get the same volatge readings between:

• the battery positive and negative terminals
• the 12 volt positive and ground buss bars
• the 12 volt positive and and any of the ground points in the bass panel

Tightening the grounds also helped resolve the installed voltmeter issue. It is still reading about 0.2Volts low than the handheld voltmeter but that is likely a calibration issue or other installed voltmeter issue.

All the above with no load on the DC except the panel indicator lights. I turned on a few more DC loads and nothing changed.

Since I had to remove the raceway cover between the steering compartment and the overhead panel I did re-route the two inverter charger remote cable and moved the remote upstairs. At least I won’t have to go outside and unloack the steering compartment to check on the inverter status any longer.

Issue resolved, except for the minor calibration issue. I’ll have to keep an eye on those grounds.

[Paul]

I was in the Paragon / Marksville campground several weeks ago. First class with lots of amenities.. but probably 40 – 50 miles away with all two lane country roads between….