Paul
Forum Replies Created
-
Hi Guy’s
I have been reading your posts since we purchased our 1998 Liberty XL45 back in April. So far my time has been spent whith updates and minor repairs taking it on 1 small bite at a time. We are not new to coaches but this is our first Prevost. This thread cought my attention as I am in the process of diagnosing the battery bay cooling fans.
I am not sure how Liberty wired these and even thought they may have been someones modification until I saw this thread. The Liberty electrical wiring book makes no mention of the fans or a reference to a fuse circuit #. I thought the 1 operational fan ran continiously until I shut the inverters off for a few days. So it appears that there may be a thermostat located somewhere? The 2nd fan which is not working appears to have a cut cable running behind the entertainment center in the 2nd bay. There is no power to the feed side of the cut cable.
I was wondering if anyone is familiar with this model and might be able to give some guidance as to where the thermostat would be located, if each fan runs on it’s own thermostat and what circuit numbers to looks for in the fuse panel for a possible blown fuse?
Thank you
-
Don, do you have any opinion on if the noise level has changed? It looks fantastic.
-
It is unfortunately, “their circus and those are not your monkeys.” (I don’t care for it and I will not tolerate it.) People will treat you in the manner in which YOU ALLOW them too. In the end, the dollar will win out. They need ME more than I need them, I can live without them, but they cannot survive without people like us (bus owner, RV etc, etc).
When I made inquiries about paking overnight, the guy at Cracker Barrel in Flagstaff told me “no overnight parking in town anywhere.” NEW RULE. I smiled and said, “listen, I am not telling anyone if you aint, we wanted to be here for breakfast in the morning.” He thought about it for a brief moment and said, “See you in the morning.”
More than one way to skin a cat, that never changed.
BCO
-
Before we had Prevo bus air, I didn’t get it. Now that we do I get it. It’s whole bus Climatrol and a last resort. Our Vantare has bus air, a 2.5 ton basement unit and 2 cruise airs. Last Oct. at the Prouds rally in Al. 1 leg of the basement air went out and shortly after the front cruise air took a crap. In the heat of the day we were able to run the bus for a few minutes to get it real cool (like 55deg) and then what was left of the basement air and the rear cruise air kept everything quite liveable. If not for the bus air we would have cut the rally short to get home and get everything fixed. Like the Monkees..I’m a believer ! Geo.
-
Best to check with Courtney at Bella Terra.
-
Give Headhunter a call good to work with they can help , I have replaced some of the remote panels and blowen out hose with air and all work good, there is not much to go wrong control box or remote panel or hose that’s plugged up. I have done all those things and all works good. There is just about not one part I have not replaced on my bus for it to be top shape , maybe over kill but I do not like problems, hope this helps!!!!!
-
Still no luck so far. And not even any luck on roadside assistance or mobile mechanic. Bus ownership is always an adventure! haha… If anyone has any suggestions, I’m pretty open yobthem at this point.
-
Ken is going to sneak around at night modifying the DDEC on all CC coaches to limit their top speed to 61 MPH, just below my top speed of 62.
-
Sounds like some good candidates for the P C Users map.
-
Apparently it didn’t work. Now all we need for him and Buddy to team up along with George we will have to deal with the Country Coach crowd.
-
I think we need to add a “LIKE” button to the forum for post.
-
Liam: Where are you and how cold will it get? If you have water in the tanks, below zero will likely damage them. By PB I presume you mean PEX. I don’t know about the flexible PEX piping, but when the water freezes, the fitting will likely crack.
My Liberty uses a heat gun fastened to the top of the water bay pointing down to heat the water bay. Seemed pretty effective when I needed it on our trip south before I winterized the coach upon our return.
-
I hope my remarks were not misunderstood.
First, the question was about paying someone to do a DMI. That is a world of difference from having Peter do an inspection. A mechanic is never going to sweat the details like Peter will. It is better than a poke in the eye with a sharp stick, but what Peter is talking about goes far beyond the average inspection.
With no documentation, no matter what the inspector says I think anyone buying a coach should plan on replacing all fluids, all filters, all belts, and do a very detailed inspection of all hoses, particularly those associated with the conversion.
That is not going to even approach the dollars Peter suggests.
But depending on your tolerance for risk the items that might be considered for replacement are air bags because if they are over 10 years of age they are likely to start showing some cracks and their potential for leaking starts to go up. Same with brake chambers. If the coach is starting to lean after sitting for a while include the Norgren valves on the list of things to do. My guess is less than $10000 will take care of everything I mentioned. Less if you do your own work.
Then if you really want to zero out the coach consider tires, batteries, and all the valves relating to the braking system. Finally, if the coach has push in fittings consider a changeover to compression fittings when you have time and money.
-
In my Vantare, the red lights on the light switches by the entry door and throughout the coach indicate that the switch, or power is off to the particular item. When Green, they should be on. On the 12v breaker panel, usually in bay 2 road side, the red lights indicate that there is power to the circuit, or that the circuit is on.
If you are tripping the breaker, then there is a short as Al mentioned above in the hand rail lighting, or wiring to the micro switch which is activated by the door. You can see this switch by opening the door and looking behind the rubber boot covering the hinge. You may have to remove the panel going up the steps facing toward the front. You can get access to most of the wiring there.
-
Your Marathon Coach was originally designed and built with a quantity of 6, GPL-4DL Lifeline batteries. I do not recognize the red batteries that you show in the pictures. I strongly recommend having the original Lifeline batteries re-installed. Also, make sure that the temperature compensation sensors are installed and functioning properly after the battery changeout. This will get you the orginal longevity and performance out of the system.
Skimping now, as a previous owner did gets you nothing but problems. Cheap “knock-off” batteries, or incorrect type of batteries, installed in unsafe locations like inside the coach interior, can be not only illegal from a vehicle manufacture and service standpoint, but also for very good reason could result in personal injury or worse. take the time/expense now to get the batteries back to original configuration and type. You will be glad you did! Just my two cents worth….
Ben @ Parliament/Coachworx