-
Generator Bay Re-model
Its a big dirty job, but its startin to come together
-
42 Replies
-
That really looks good.
-
The two coolant hoses are 4′ long and have a NAPA brand on them, Fleet Flex Gold 801, they are 1-1/8″ id. I went to my local NAPA and called another. The best we could determine, NAPA makes 1″ and 1-1/4″, not 1-1/8″, and only in 3′ lengths. Online I found a Dayco part# 75113GL that fits the bill. My Autozone sells them for $72ea and will have them in 2 days or Grainger sells them for $127ea and can get them in 4 days.
-
Don, will you be putting back the deadening material?
I assume that it has not been replaced before so 20 yrs. is not too bad.
Mark
-
Good work Don, nothing worse than all that crumbling foam.
-
Almost ready to put the gen back in with new coolant hoses, new fuel lines, and new evacuator fan.
I’m using 2 layers of this. R value of 6
-
Looking great. Thanks for the photos. -
Don, while your R value for the insulation is good, I wonder how well it will do for sound level. Please let us know if the noise from the generator is higher than before.
-
Nice job Don, it looks great.
-
Great job Don. Really nice.
Bill S.
-
Nice job Don…… thanks for pictures
-
Don, thats a first class job. Great pictures.
-
Don,
Before you reassemble everything make an effort to examine the flexible exhaust for leakage or potential failure. Some coaches have had no problems with that exhaust, but others have had to be replaced. The wound coil type of exhaust has had problems, and there are other types that are more reliable available.
-
Jon, I have looked it over. It looks like new.
Every evening I say “tomorrow I should have it ready to re-install” but then I think of something more to do while it out.
I’m replacing every rubber hose on the gen and in its compartment.
The radiator shop said the radiator needs re-coring due to internal corrosion.
Is there a reason the gen radiator needs the huge squirrel cage fan and electric motor? The only reason I can think of is they are trying to keep that radiator compartment as cool as possible so that as lttle heat as possible is transferred to the neighboring OTR evaparator compartment and on the other side the inverter compartment.
I’ve beening toying w/the idea of removing the huge fan and motor and installing a 12v thermostat controlled fan and shroud on the backside of the gen radiator. Thats what is on both my race cars and my 51 PU. I know it doesn’t take much to keep the gen radiator at 180, but if their trying to keep it “as cool as possible”, meaning well below 180,then I’ll stick to the huge stuff.
Thoughts?
-
I’m sure the fan configuration on the coach is the result of years of experience. Unlike our cars the generator radiator does not get the added air flow from the wind passing through it. I do not know if the air flow from an electric radiator fan is the equivalent of the squirrel cage fan.
If you can make up a manometer with some scrap clear tubing you can see if there is a similar pressure drop across the face of the race car engine with electric fans compared to the generator radiator. The generator motor is probably around 40 or 50 HP and under most circumstances is only using a fraction of that so you don’t have a lot of heat to reject. But you do want to be sure it has the ability to provide air flow as needed because you don’t want to find out when you are in Arizona in the summer trying to run 4 Cruiseairs that you are overheating.
-
Here are some of the old(top) and new hoses(bottom) that I’m replacing on the gen. I’m also replacing a lot of nuts, bolts, washers, clamps, belt, wire shielding, cleaning, and touching up the paint, etc. I’m also going to try and have a new belt cover made out of polished aluminum tread plate.
I might reinstall the gen tomorrow., or not.
Log in to reply.