Forum Replies Created

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  • Michael

    Member
    December 29, 2016 at 10:54 am in reply to: Any advice on purchasing this bus

    thanks Pres, I’ll find out the year of the Chassis. Didn’t think to ask about that.

    TJ

  • Michael

    Member
    December 29, 2016 at 6:57 am in reply to: Nearly a Newbie!

    Nice looking bus, Mike.

    I’ve found Austin good to deal with – low key.

  • Michael

    Member
    August 2, 2016 at 7:06 am in reply to: Protocol

    updated my sig as suggested.

    we have an enclosed building for the bus and it is heated. Our home is at 7600 feet elevation so air condition is not necessary. Our high temps are normally around 80. I did cut the power switch to the generator. Your input has been helpful , I may install a large floor fan just to circulate air,,,,,,any thoughts there?

  • Michael

    Member
    July 2, 2016 at 6:52 am in reply to: HI PS Is BS!

    there is a rubber scoop under there that was on the coach when we bought it. I guess it’s just angry.

  • Michael

    Member
    June 29, 2016 at 6:27 am in reply to: Newbie intro from the North

    Dog, welcome to PC.

    I hope you can get the coach for your needs, but I would offer some advice.

    Even if you get an underloved coach for free, but by the time you put it in safe operating condition, and restore the house and its systems you are going to end up with far more invested than if you found the absolute best coach in your price range. Your price range is not only the cost of the coach initially, but the dollars spent on parts and materials to fix it. That ignores the value of your time. If you will not be doing the actual repairs yourself your investment will look like the national debt.

    Tires and batteries can cost almost $10,000. Air bags, suspension system valves, brake chambers, relay valves etc can approach $5,000. If there are troubles with the engine and transmission add a bunch more Benjamins.

    While an old coach can be cheap, a poorly maintained old coach is very expensive. Repairs on old coaches and the associated parts are just as expensive as on a brand new coach.

    I’m not suggesting an older coach is not going to need repairs or some preventive maintenance, but if you can find one that is well cared for and has records to prove its service is current you not only get to enjoy your coach much sooner, you start with a solid foundation. I do almost 100% of my own work as do others on here and I can tell you the best starting point for any potential owner is a coach in excellent repair. You will have plenty of opportunity to provide your coach with TLC after you buy it. You do not have to start with one that is in dire need of TLC because that ain’t TLC, it is life support.

  • Michael

    Member
    June 28, 2016 at 1:36 am in reply to: Very Happy

    Bill S,

    Call Rod at Total Vision 520-623-0790 he is super nice and will answer all your qustions.

    Bob

  • Michael

    Member
    June 26, 2016 at 11:17 pm in reply to: Sighting at Ameristar Vicksburg

    Well they never came out of the coach from what I saw and I am not one to just walk up and knowck on someones door…lol

    Really nice looking H3 though.

  • Michael

    Member
    June 8, 2016 at 5:55 am in reply to: H3-45 rear passenger engine access door latch

    I doubt that you have any access from under the coach to be able to get to the back side of the unit. If you can not get it to open much like the bay doors you may have to order a new handle and then drill out the old to get to the linkage…On some coaches I have been able to get something like a awning rod up by the bumper and push the rear engine door latch then I can access the back of the side door…..

  • Michael

    Member
    June 7, 2016 at 3:08 pm in reply to: Detroit Deisel Service Centers

    They’re real popular down here in the geezer state, see lots of them.

  • Michael

    Member
    May 19, 2016 at 7:08 am in reply to: iPad upgrade

    You guys who pick on my no voice mail, no text, no camera flip phone are going to be envious. I am currently installing the new intuitive system in my coach that does away with all of my objections to the current system.

    I no longer have to go through 5 steps just to open a pocket door or deal with outdated displays that have to be updated every time a new one is introduced. My new system only requires thought waves. If I want to open a door, turn on a light, watch TV or even start the generator, all I have to do is think about it.

    I will not share the codes. Don’t ask.

  • Michael

    Member
    September 12, 2015 at 11:49 pm in reply to: Looking for XL40 with Series 60

    Yes, solar panels, a good charging system, and nice batteries can do wonders! I hate to admit it though, but it mostly just buys you quiet. You can buy a lot of diesel fuel for the initial cost and recurring battery costs…

    I’m finding significant differences is tank sizes and “stock” battery banks. Of course between converters, but also year-to-year within converter. With the fiberglass ones, I’ve found those things pretty much stay the same unitl the chassis and/or house made a significant change.

    Kurt

  • Michael

    Member
    September 9, 2015 at 3:58 pm in reply to: Looking for XL40 with Series 60

    I knew the 45′ XL’s got IFS in 96 shell yr, but thought the 40’s did not until the XL11. Guess I was mistaken. Geo.

  • Michael

    Member
    September 9, 2015 at 2:21 pm in reply to: Rubber gaskets around bay doors

    First, I seriously doubt if Prevost does the actual fabrication. Door gaskets or seals such as on refrigerators or bay doors are produced from extrusions and a specialized rubber or plastic fabricator joins the pieces to make a one piece frame. The material of choice is joined using methods specific to the material selected. They may be heat bonded, glued, vulcanized or welded or any other joining method that works.

  • Michael

    Member
    September 4, 2015 at 7:18 am in reply to: Sticking relays

    What Buddy said.

    Relays of sufficient size to handle interior lighting don’t have to be big enough to make a clunk so my initial question would be what is the nature of the “sticking”. Typically a relay engages when a magnetic coil is energized and that coil pulls the contacts together. When the source of the power to the coil interrupts the power to the coil the electrical contacts are pulled open by a spring.

    When relays stick it could be a mechanical reason, such as the spring is not pulling the contacts open because something is hanging up or the spring has failed. But it could be electrical such as the electrical arc created when the contacts are closed and a heavy load has been applied with the result being a weld. When conditions are right the contacts weld themselves together and the spring lacks sufficient force to pull them back open.

    The first thing I would look for is to determine the load the relay handles and make sure the relay is sized to handle the load. If it is too small in terms of rating the result is going to the welding of contacts or heat because the contacts cannot handle the load carried and that heat may cause the relay to bind in the closed position.

    But don’t spray relays with anything.

  • Michael

    Member
    September 1, 2015 at 6:46 am in reply to: Nonsense rule at Tiger Run

    Paul,

    Have you considered becoming an advertiser and in your ad or on your web site make people aware yours is the “original” and how a customer can be assured of dealing with your company and not a different one?

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