Joe
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks Tim!
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Dick:
You are correct, I did have to make sure the 20 Amp outlets were on separate breakers. Good catch.
Chuck
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Here’s what I and others have done on our ole single pane XLs:
/threaddetails.asp?Category=General%20Discussions%3E&ThreadID=7856#65726
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My coach is older than yours but i have a stacked screw terminal board on the left hand side in the engine bay electrical box. All of the tail light functions are there and they are converted to 12v for trailer and tow lights.
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AIR DOG PERFORMANCE TEST
One of the Air Dog claims is increased power. On their web site Air Dog provides details regarding how they tested and verified that claim, but I decided to verify the claim.
The process was simple. I picked a starting point and an end point. From a complete stop, with the engine fully warmed up I would start from a complete stop at the starting point, and time the bus as it ran between the two points. The transmission was left in Drive, the OTR was turned off, the transmission was put in performance mode, and as soon as I mashed my foot on the accelerator timing started, and as soon as the bus nose hit the end point timing stopped.
To be confident of the timing which was done by none other than Tom Chilcote using his smart phone two runs were made with the Air Dog functioning, and two with the Air Dog out of the system.
Our first impression was to determine if either of us could sense or feel a difference in vibration as the Air Dog was turned off. Neither of us could, and maybe prior to the completion of testing I can find a way to determine if there is a way to measure this stated benefit.
The timed acceleration runs were close. The numbers are below and it is up to you to determine if based on what we did and how we did it the numbers are accurate enough to verify performance gains due to more power as claimed, of if they are inaccurate or unreliable due to operator error.
AIR DOG “ON”, 22.65 SECONDS, 22.94 SECONDS
AIR DOG “OFF” 235 SECONDS, 239 SECONDS.
The Air Dog site does not state there are massive increases of power, but a 6% increase in torque.
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What in the tarnation ??
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Jon how much electric does that flip phone really take?
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Clint you’re a savvy motorhome buyer. The lates 90’s XL whether 40′ or 45′ is IMHO the second best buy in RV’ing today. The very best buy in RV’ing today is an early 90’s XL.
Much of everything comes down the personal preference. For us private commode is must have. Two lavatory sinks is a close second (we have them either side of the shower, if one was in the private toilet room, that would probably work too).
We bought ours in 2014. Took a while looking and I think the market is more active now than back then, so it isn’t easy. But the search will be well worth it.
BTW … my first motorhome experience was in a friends early 1980’s FC Bluebird. I think it was 33′ long. After a few trips with him he upgraded to a 40 Liberty Coach.
Good luck in your search. We’re all hear to help.
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Great responses and appreciated.
Refining our needs – reliability/durability/safety are my major desires. Cosmetics are secondary. I’m comfortable with maintenance costs at those levels. I will do light repairs and expect to have anything beyond handled by a reputable facility.
Travel – we expect to attend a few auto races during a year along with east coast museum/town sightseeing. We’re not the folk who will be in state parks or remote camping.
Expectation – I’m suspecting coaches in this range to have some issues that will take money to bring to a good operating level. You can see my interest to identify these as we learn to shop.
Great responses as I mentioned, please keep them coming!
Gary
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Thanks all…
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I’m interested in your solution. Please post when you get it finished……..Safe travels.
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Under a load? white smoke is water, head gasket maybe, and hope NOT a cylinder, change antifreeze lately??????
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Today I drained the water heaters and bypassed the leaking lower unit. I was able to reconfigure the existing fittings, check valves, hoses and pipes.
This brings up another question. There is a check valve in the cold water supply line to the heater and there is an expansion tank in the cold water line mostly to prevent the pumps from cycling unnecessarily.
There is no provision to deal with the hot water expansion itself which can be quite substantial. Online I found 4psi for every 1 deg F increase. Hot coolant at 200 deg F going through the heat exchanger would raise the pressure by 400 psi. Of course, the T&P valve would open around 150 psi. This would explain why the T&P valve always drips during heating.
If I did the math correctly, the expansion of an 11 gal water heater from 100 to 200 deg F would be about a quart. I’m pretty sure the few hoses in the hot water system would not be able to expand by a quart. Should there be an additional expansion tank on the hot water side? Does our system rely on the P&T valve leaking while heating?
But looking at my water heater at home, the expansion tank is also on the cold water side. No leaks from the P&T either. What am I missing?
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Andre, I thought you sold your Royale and picked up an H model
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The text size was increased.
Bill III