JIM
Forum Replies Created
-
Also check oil level
-
-
Our coaches share a suspension system logic that uses a number of Norgren spool valves. With a few exceptions the spool valves are activated by auxiliary air system air pressure which moves the internal spool to open or cloase the valve. That air pressure is controlled by the suspension control at the driver’s area. and that control operates solenoid valves which by being open or closed control the spool valves.
That’s a long winded way of saying that absent a leak in the air bags or suspension valves or connections when you operate the level low system controls you are actually using air pressure to move the spools to make the suspension do what you need it to do. If moisture has reached the system that moisture can evantually cause the internals of the spool valves (Norgrens) to corrode and gum up, eventually preventing them from functioning. Once they get messed up internally it is anyone’s guess as to why the bus suspension does or does not do what it is commanded to do.
Despite Georges good luck at having the coach go to the driving height, he now has a bus he cannot rely on to react correctly every time. It may work the next time, or it may never work again without repairs. Regardless the initial problem of moisture needs to be dealt with, and then the system needs to be checked. In this particular case I would suggest all air tanks get drained. Then the air dryer serviced. Then I would exercise every portion of the suspension system multiple times by alternately raising and lowering each corner fully to exhaust as much moisture as possible. If the air entering the auxiliary system is know to be dry, then filling and exhausing the air bags will help purge moisture. It will also exercise the Norgen valves. If they have an internal build up of the gray crud (a technical term) that is associated with moisture in the system that will not go away, but by exercising the valves at least they may not bind up.
If in exercising the bus suspension, both manually and by driving it something does fail to function then at least part of the problem has been isolated without requiring a lot of time consuming diagnosis.
-
Al
I will give you a call we will see how the timing works out
Bill
-
Sadly, I am having this very problem today! Went to move the coach to get ready for our road trip and it would not go up to drive height!
Started the coach and waited for it to air up and alarms to go off, the level low alarm stayed on, coach did not go up. I have a printed copy of the level low troubleshooting guide and schematics from this site, so I followed it as well as I could in trying to determine the source of the problem.
Tried to manually raise each of the 3 points with the driver side control switch, it would go up a bit then stop, then I ould hear air leak out (from the circled area in the attached photo).
I was next door to an RV dealer and asked their mechanic to come over to check it out, he opened the water separator tank drain and a lot of water came gushing out, so the air system had water in it. Without checking the solenoids as he didn’t have the time to do it today, he suggested that as a result of water having entered the system, perhaps a valve is stuck or corroded, they can check it out for me next week as they are very busy this weekend.
This is making me crazy!
-
And don’t forget the Dragon.
-
Liam,
That stub is/ was an anti-siphon that Country Coach uses on their sewer flush system. It’s there for access for repair/replacement and places it above the tank. The newer Country Coach products have two, one for the black tank, one for the gray. Your local home center should have a replacement if necessary.
Fred ’01 Magna Plastic
-
BTW, here’s a thread with pictures of my system: http://prevostcommunity.com/forum/threaddetails.asp?Category=Updates&ThreadID=649
Since thiese pictures were taken I moved the Detroit ProDriver and it’s now mounted directly right of the new SilverLeaf system.
-
When we got our first coach every tow bar was folded and remained on the toad. There were no other options. The market eventually gravitated to RV mounted tow bars with nearly invisible receivers for the arm attach points.
I have two objections to RV mounted tow bars based on my use of one. The principle objection is the angle of the tow bar relative to the ground is what it is. There are no devices or ways to have a level tow bar and if an RV mounted tow bar is level it is pure luck. When I was towing either our Hummer or Dodge pickup they were at two different levels because the toad base plates are mounted where Roadmaster determines they need to be. To keep my tow bar level all I have to do is adjust the height of the ball. That was not possible with the RV mounted tow bar.
My second objection is to connect or disconnect I had to deal with two pins. Not that big a deal except nowhere as easy as just dropping the tow bar on the ball and latching it. I place function over form so I have no objection when traveling to have the tow bar folded and sticking on the front of the toad. Neither the pickup or the Hummer are beauty queens so I am not concerned about driving around with the folded tow bar hanging on the front of either. If I towed a car that looks great I might have a different opinion. The tow bar comes off the toad with the removal of pins and safety cable when not in use and it is hard to see the receivers so having a folded tow bar is not a permanent thing for the Hummer.
-
Success in changing out the oil. Once again, thanks to all for your suggestions and advise.
HAPPY THANKSGIVING!
-
Mine is an Amprobe and doing an internet search you can likely find other brands and their distributors. I bet Amazon would list them.
A word of caution however……..if you are serious about chasing and repairing leaks recognize you need to be all over your coach. upstairs, in the various bays and beneath the coach. It is slow work, requires patience, and an understanding there is no silver bullet. You can work exclusively in the steer compartment for example and to be assured you have found all leaks that can be repaired in that area you will need all types of leak detection from soapy water to a stethoscope to an ultrasonic leak detector to a bubbler such as Hector advocates. Each method has its advantages, and even with all the tools available for leak detection you still have to know how the pneumatic system works to a certain extent so you know what you are being told by the leak detection devices..
Don’t let my apparently negative comments dissuade you. They are not meant to do that, but to merely help you understand an ultrasonic leak detector is but one tool, has limited benefits, and that once you become a leak detective you will also become an expert on the coach (and house) pneumatic systems.
-
Joel,
Some front end noise seems to be the norm after several thousand miles. According to Prevost this is normal. I replaced front shocks, but the sound didn’t go away. I asked Prevost Ft Worth to inspect the front end. There was some rubber deteriation visible on the upper A arm bushings. The tech pointed out that until the joint is almost hitting whatever is next to it (I forget what it was) that the bushings are still servicable. Another Prevost rep said I could lubricate the bushings with dry silicone spray, but wasn’t confident it would correct the noise.
-
A couple of mine were painted by a previous owner and they look much worse than the others that have not been painted.
DKO
-
Come on Bob, it’s only about 2500 miles.
-
Bill Jensen will answer the original question, but for the life of me I cannot imagine the Cat EC-1 spec coolant damaging any system. This coolant was developed by Cat and is used across the board in their products which includes trucks and truck engines. I seriously doubt they use any materials that differ from those found in our coaches, whether it is soldered joints, hose, piping, etc.
But we will soon know the answer.