[Archived]

I don’t think the factory puts anything on them. At one time some converters painted them to match the base color of the coach. Some owners had them painted gloss black.

If left alone they may not be pretty, but doing anything to them, including painting can at best be temporary. Paint cracks and chips. Clear coats crack and chip. Tire dressing always needs to be reapplied.

Newer coaches are using fiberglass and painting them seems to be a good thing because unlike the rubber fenders the paint adheres and does not crack.

I used to keep them clean on my 97, and on rare occasion if I was wiping some tire dressing on the tires, I would rub some on the fenders. Yet nobody ever said “nice fenders”.

I did polish my slack adjusters.

[William]

I will keep Mine clean , And apply Armour all or something when I do the tires. Dried out Rubber Looks like what comes out of the Dump Valve IMHO.

[Don]

I found new set 4 corners with back fastners on E-bay last fall for $180. Might even check out new price and there was a set of fiberglass ones floating around for sale awhile back. I’ll see if I can find source for you. Also IBP at Apoka Fl. Bob

[JIM]

A couple of mine were painted by a previous owner and they look much worse than the others that have not been painted.

DKO

[Dale]

I use a automotive product called Back to Black on my plastic Jeep fenders and it work real well. Don’t see why it would not work for this.

[Davy]

[Archived]

“The stuff you want is called Forever Black. It is a permanent dye containing no silicone or other oils to attract dust. It comes in a 4 or 8 ounce bottle with a shoe polish sponge applicator on top which when depressed dispenses the liquid dye. I have an eight ounce bottle been using since 1997. Just google Forever Black, the model you want is Bumper and Trim Reconditioner.

You will drip it until you get used to the dispenser sponge, what it lands on will be dyed, such as black spots on white concrete. You can recoat after say 30 minutes of drying until you achieve the desired result. A very simple to use quality product, no cracking or chipping or anything of this nature.”

That sure looks like it will do the trick.Now I need to figure out how to get the paint off the ones that were painted.

DKO

[Dan]

Thanks DKO, I am going to try that stuff!

[Archived]

Several applications of a quality paste wax works very well. Water spots and runs will not show on the waxed surface – at least for a while.

[Archived]

The stuff you want is called Forever Black. It is a permanent dye containing no silicone or other oils to attract dust. It comes in a 4 or 8 ounce bottle with a shoe polish sponge applicator on top which when depressed dispenses the liquid dye. I have an eight ounce bottle been using since 1997. Just google Forever Black, the model you want is Bumper and Trim Reconditioner.

You will drip it until you get used to the dispenser sponge, what it lands on will be dyed, such as black spots on white concrete. You can recoat after say 30 minutes of drying until you achieve the desired result. A very simple to use quality product, no cracking or chipping or anything of this nature.

Dan and Barb 1994 Elegant Lady since 2007 Huntley, Illinois Grand Cherokee CRD, 911 GTS, TDI Cup

[Steve]

Oops, my bad.

[Corey]

If this older thread can be revived, I’d like to know what anyone used to successfully remove paint (applied by PO) from the rubber. The paint is cracking and flaking and I’d rather not wait until it finishes doing that by itself.

Kirby

[Archived]

I have successfully used a paint remover I got from Lowe’s for a variety of jobs.

I used two different ones, and both worked equally well on a variety of substrates. Both were a gel and before I damaged the substrate I tested them on a small unseen area. They get applied as a thick coating with a brush, then the old paint softens and can be wiped off.