Jeff
Forum Replies Created
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Ditto. I put 3 Penguin II roof airs on mine. Easy? No. Doable? Yes. Let me know if you have questions. Will be at WPB. Mike
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Small 2-5kw inverter generator or something similar. They’re so much smaller, quieter and lighter. II’d also make it removable and add a fuel drain hose to refill. If boondocking for days/weeks in middle of no where I’d use a long cable and put it far away
I have victron inverters which has power assist and if using above the genset it just uses the batteries to invert. I also have solar so don’t really even need a genset.
My 20kw genset now is over a 1000lbs and like 2x2x4ft so takes a ton of space. Have only used a few times and didn’t even really need it.
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50 amp service requires at least a 12K generator. 100amps (50 amps on each leg) X 120V is 12,000 amps. Anything above 12K would be my recommendation.
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Agree
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Thank you Jon that is good information.
Hope you guys don’t get what’s coming to northwest pa and the southern tier this weekend.
Thanks again,
Chris
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Thanks Chuck, I will not be there.
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Thanks for the info, very helpful.
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You have done A LOT of excellent testing.
Best I have ever read about.
I STILL have, and cannot figure out why all three of my tanks drain at the exact same rate despite previously thinking I had resolved the issue (by replacing the PR2 Pressure Protection valve at the aux air tank)
I additionally and VERY recently changed the DC-4 valve, R-12s, R-14 and R-7 parking brake valve yet still primary, secondary and aux tanks drain down at the exact same rate.
I have studied and studied and studied the air drawing for my coach and cannot see where all three tanks “meet” or at what point they converge and could potentially cause all three to leak down at the exact same rate.
Incredibly frustrating…
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Thank you. After looking at the schematics (which are very confusing) It seems the air comes in from the Bendix compressor to the Haldex dryer to the wet tank to the secondary, primary and accessory tanks. From the accessory tank right into that air/water filter. There’s also a valve on the inbound part of the filter, so I plan on adding a T (or 2) and putting the air compressor and the pressure switch there, while keeping that valve. I believe that valve has a shrader valve like a tire to fillup incase of issues.
Do you know if this will fill my accessory tank or is there a checkvalve somewhere blocking it? Also how do the other tanks operate? I believe they open at 90psi so if my compressor is pumping 100psi it should fill all the tanks and bags right? I want my bags to be full so I don’t lose level overnight if any leaks. I want to get the aux air system figured out before I start tracing leaks and replacing bags so I know what to expect.
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Here’s what mine looks like. Hopefully it works up more tomorrow so I can spend a few more minutes and clean up any wiring. I pulled the Prevost schematics off their site but was seemed even more complicated.
The stainless steel braided line is my new compressor that just fit in the spare slot that has a converter tag. I don’t think is the right spot though, looks after everything. Am I right to assume that bottom right thing is a dryer? The valid slide components aren’t visible.
There was a pair of wires labeled air compressor and i see a small air hose that goes into my 2nd bay which looks like someone ripped out the compressor before selling. Was hoping to find a regulator pre-installed. The air hose seems a lot smaller than my new compressor.
Also the Viair regulator screw seems smaller than the air compressor regulator. Guess I’ll have to run to the store and get a tee and put them all together.
Trying not to touch too much as one noregen valve I touched last time crumbled and had to replace. Still have a few small leaks
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Don, Where is your California air tools 120 volt located? Do you have an off/on switch on the dash panel ? Where is your 120 volt receptacle located? Thanks, Darrell
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Have always wondered why Prevost does not install upon their air tanks “automatic moisture ejectors” (my verbiage)
Both Spartan and Freightliner use them
https://n0c357rmy1njbuit2friqwu.blob.core.windows.net/documents/xfTl94x$I0EBhB_SD-03-2501_US_008.pdf
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I’ve used both EEZ & TST cap style sensors on Bus, Toad & Stacker. Overall they work good. TST’s monitor allows for multiple trailers i.e. toad, stacker, boat, etc.
If the repeater is not used the signal tends to drop for a couple sensors near the rear but ONLY when engine is running. I have the repeater connected directly to my chassis batteries as they are just behind the tag axle. I’ve heard some people tap into a rear closet light and mount inside – it really don’t matter as long as the senor is near the back.
As for install – just screw them on like the regular valve stem cover.
Replace the button battery in each sensor every 12 to 18 months. Some say replacing the O ring every couple years is a good idea.
Use a paint pen or nail polish to label each sensor – inevitably if you don’t when tires are replaced you end up putting them in wrong location leading to confusion.
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While water pressure and flow rate are important for a Headhunter toilet to work an often never discussed component is an important part of the system.
Like all Liberty coaches mine had high volume, high pressure water pumps. But everything mechanical fails so I installed a Shurflo water pump with a puny 1.2 GPM flow rate and to insure as a back up pump it would work to flush the toilet I added a one gallon water expansion tank. Regardless of which water pump I use, my Headhunter will flush because the expansion tank is located just a few feet from the flush valve.
My point is to find the expansion tank on a Liberty and make sure it is pressurized to the required setting. An older expansion tank usually ends up with a bladder leak and does not work as intended. A clue to that is short cycling of the water pump, meaning as soon as a drop of water is run from a faucet the water pump kicks on.