[Greg]

I tried to get a manual for my 94 Liberty and there was nothing Liberty could do for me.

[Greg]

Liberty will sell you a replacement manual for your coach. Not cheap, but worth it. Call Bill in Chicago.

[Greg]

thanks for all the input. Last night an electrician looked at it and he messed with the breaker a little and finally it began to work without the clicking. Just to be sure of a couple things (I cannot find the manuals with this info, I will try to find them on the Internet today maybe).

This breaker I am referring to is a 70 amp and is located on the front of a metal box in the bay next to the bay that has the generator radiator. It says “shore power breaker”. Is the transfer switch in that box? And if I am understanding you all correctly, I should just leave this breaker in the on position all the time?

Thanks again.

[Greg]

I once had a similar problem with the Liberty transfer switch not wanting to ” latch” when I plugged into shore power, yet worked fine using the generator. It would make a clicking noise and fail to engage.

In my case, it was a faulty relay in the transfer switch box. My transfer switch had 2 time delay relays within the transfer switch. They were identical and there was one for the generator and one for shore power. I swapped them to resolve the problem until I could get replacements. I replaced both with new and kept the old “good” one as an emergency spare.

Hope this points you in the right direction.

[Greg]

Jon,

This unit is new to me (4 days now). Everything seems to run well on the generator. The previous owner told me to keep that 70 amp breaker in the off position until I plugged into shore power and then when I was all plugged in, turn it on. The first time I hooked it up to this same 50 amp receptacle it worked fine. I even ran all 3 AC units for several hours.

now it is giving me this problem. I have not left it on and clicking long enough to go inside and look at the panel to see a reading though.

[Greg]

I responded as I did because at one time a “mechanic” who is currently active on another site had urged owners to do this to take weight off the steer axle. He had some other ideas of a similar nature that I considered equally ill advised, yet he had (has) a following that hang on his every word. We prefer the information covered here to be as accurate as possible.

The tag axles share pressure with the drive axle air bags. Between the tag and drive axles there is a three port Norgren valve that maintains an open path between the 3 air bags per side and the amount of pressure when driving is a function of the ride height valve which only adds or exhasts air as required to maintain the height for driving.

There is no pressure regulator on any part of the suspension system.

[Greg]

I agree with Bob about the next possibility being an R12 or R14 relay valve having the signal air blocked by a valve such as Norgren not working.

When you lift the tag that valve is supposed to prevent brake application, but is supposed to be open when the tag lift lever is in the normal position. Take the following with a grain of salt because I am not looking at the pneumatic diagram and I am supposing. When you lift the tag the valve should operate the Norgrens that are between the tag and drive air bags. The path which is normally open should close, and air in the tag air bags should dump and the lift chambers should be presusrized and lift the tag axle. If that is happening I suspect It imght be a problem with the relay valve.

Remember, I am guessing on this one because I haven’t looked at the drawing.

[Greg]

Mine is 35 at vent on dash with the temp gun on vent The leak was above drivers seat there is a second blower up above drivers it was one of the lines going into it right at blower this is another fan plus I have dash air if there is a leak there will be like streaks of oil on wall or some where it does not leave its like it stains the metal if u can see it good luck my was not to hard to find but I don’t think many techs would have found it the fitting was loose hard to tighten but got it

[Greg]

Wal-mart

Kmart

Cracker Barrel

Welcome centers

Someone else’s driveway if they have 50 amp hookups.

[Greg]

I would like to get involved with this dicussion but I am very new here so if someone could give me some info on what I need to do I would really appreciate the help.

Thanks in advance

[Greg]

Jim,

Generally speaking, under load most autostarts are set up to kick on at 11.8 (23.6). However, on user set autostarts a lot of owners are setting the voltage to a higher value such as 12.1 or 12.2 since less discharge equates to many more charge cycles of life for batteries.

However some systems such as Liberty’s Watchdog are not user adjustable. Some are sophisticated enough to anticipate when to autostart based on the load, and rate of drawdown and not exclusively the voltage. So bottom line is you have to make the choice (or not) based on your systems. You did not include a signature line which listed your coach information so the answer is somewhat vague and generic.

[Greg]

I believe the EPA would have problems with the emissions.

[Greg]

I wish we were coming. No leaves here, but it is snowing! YUK!! Makes me want to move south! Rick

[Greg]

I’m confused. Is the problem with the dash air or is there a problem with low DC voltage?

I get especially concerned when folks not used to working on a Prevost are used in desperation. Doesn’t Amadas have a presence within striking distance? Johnson RV?

[Greg]

At first I thought that an intermittently long-flushing toilet was probably a feature, and that the sensor was working correctly.

Then I heard about Tom’s flat, kinky hose and wondered why he needed a diaphragm?

Back to work…