Glenn
Forum Replies Created
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Jon thanks again, yes our coach power is made by inverter and I plan on changing that. I realize this might be pricey but believe it will be better in the long run .As big loads come straight from shore or generator now .Big power 3 roof ac electric heat water heater aqua hot washer dryer microwave.
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The relay valves in the brake system get a signal from the foot treadle or parking brake valve and open the path for air flow from the air tank to the brake chambers. When that air signal is gone, such as taking your foot from the brake, they function as a quick release valve and exhaust the air that applied the brakes.
The ABS valves are getting a signal from the ABS system sensors and control and remain closed until a slower wheel speed on one wheel compared to others is detected, which is an indication of an impending wheel lock-up. At that point the ABS valve opens and exhausts air from the brake chamber to prevent the wheel from locking and thus skidding.
Generally when brake system air pressure is lost it tends to be a relay valve, but there are other parts of each braking system that can also cause the loss of air pressure. When the coach is not running generally speaking there is no air pressure going to the brake chambers because it is stopped at the relay valves.
A DOT brake check is a good source of clues as to where systems can be leaking.
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Jon
In many ways I agree with you. But in it’s defence the only time the autofill should be used is if the coach is also connected to the parks sewer and the black and grey dumps are open. This way the black and grey tanks are always empty. A few converters set it up so it won’t allow the auto fill to activate if either the black or grey tank is higher than 50%. Which presents issues of it’s own, just more things to fail.
The biggest issue with the auto fill is the solenoid. They tend to get stuck in the open position. I have replaced a lot of solenoid valves. The largest failure is “baking”. This happens when the valve gets turned on and there is no city water connected. The coil then over heats because it relies on flowing water to cool it. After time the valve becomes stuck in the open position from cooking the calcium in the water around the little plunger. Or the coil burns out. With my system I recommend using an electronic ball valve rather than a solenoid valve. Electronic ball valves are constructed in a way that they open and shut off and close and shut off even if power is still applied. My system also shuts the autofill off if there is no rise in water level for about 5 to 10 minutes.
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Jimmy:
Is he going to the salt flats for a Prevost speed record? LOL
Chuck
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As mentioned, I also suggest setting your Stop point at 80% or 90%,
Or you can adjust your “full” point to be slightly less than full. In other words, adjust it so it reads 100% when it’s actually 90% or 95%.
Couple reasons.
1> the actual % point can very depending on ambient Barometric pressure, which varies depending on atmosphere and height above sea level. This can affect your sensor readings by 1% to 3%. Which means your tank could be full and over flowing while your system is only reading 98%. It will never reach 100% at this point and keep filling.
2> The Headhunter system verifies the tank levels too slowly in my opinion. The systems shows tank level in real time, but there is some lag. In other words the tank could reach 100% and over fill but the system is only seeing 95% until the next purge verifying what the sensor thinks it is vs what it actually is. A purge cycle is when those little pumps pump air into the tubes clearing them and recheck or verify the fill level. So you could over fill your tank for 10 or 15 minutes before the next purge cycle when it finally shuts off.
3> Headhunter uses potentiometers to set your high and low points. This can introduce a large margin of error in your actual full point.
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Glenn
MemberJuly 12, 2021 at 6:00 pm in reply to: How far do I go with this? etc. 1989 XL CC 8v92TARick,
77 miles north of you in Sheridan, Mi I have had a pretty complete head job done on my 8V-92 by Brandon Peters who runs a shop he calls Superior Equipment Service LLC. He has a lot of 8V-92 experience and keeps a lot of them running on farms, oil rigs, generators, etc.
If you need advice give them a call at 616 835-6525.
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Unless something has changed,
There are two pins, one on each bottom corner near the tires. There is a small level that you push/pull to release the pin.
In the center section there are either thumb screws or rubber retention bungees hooding the center section.
Once everything is release it should drop straight down. So have someone hold the center while another releases everything so it doesn’t drop to the ground and chip your paint.
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Post a picture of regulator you’re writing about.
I have some info and pictures.
BTW…. regulators for generator enclosed areas are built different for a important reason.
AL
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Don’t know for sure, but should be on the airbag just like a tire.
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Also make sure the contrast didn’t get turned all the way down. I have seen that happen twice over the years.
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Do you know what system you have now or is it a liberty proprietary system?
I may be able to help, http://www.yellowjacketconcepts.com/other.html
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Would love to see pics of your CC interior if you wand to send to my email.
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Date code should be on back on a sticker along with serial number. On later models, I think the serial number may incorporate the DOM. This is my old one (2003) that I replaced a few weeks ago.
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I know of no way to describe anyone performing pre-purchase inspections as “the best”.
Our coaches are so varied in terms of chassis models, converters, and aftermarket system changes that no one person or dealer or converter can know all of the variations.
If a person wants the best possible stick with Prevost for the chassis inspection. Stick with the engine and transmission manufacturer to pull up the history embedded in the control modules, and have the converter do the house inspection.
If the coach is being purchased from a dealer and a warranty is being offered a great deal of the pre-purchase inspection is not much more than an exercise because actual use after the sale will reveal issues covered by the warranty.
We have a member who does inspections and I expect he will post in response to this thread.
There is a concern of mine and that is if a person inspects the coach prior to a purchase by a dealer, and then performs an inspection on the coach on behalf of the dealer’s customer there is a huge conflict of interest and worse, taking money from the dealer’s customer to do an inspection that might reveal oversights from the first inspection is troubling. Does a repeat customer such as the dealer find out about an expensive oversight, or does a one time customer such as the buyer get that find swept under the rug?