[Fred F.]

We’re checking it out guys. Safari and Firefox are no problems.

[Fred F.]

The answer is not cut and dried. Most conversions that have two alternators size them based on whether they have OTR or are running house AC units while driving.

In the case of a coach without OTR using roof airs for example while driving the 50DN is usually a 12 v olt model with 270 to 300 amp output. The chassis would use a 24V alternator, often in the 140 to 150 amp range.

If the coach uses OTR the 50DN remains as a 24V alternator to handle the heavy loads of the condenser and evaporator fans, and the house gets a 140 amp 12 volt alternator. House AC units in that case are run from shore or generator power.

There are variations of the above but how your systems are set up is going to determine your choice of alternators.

There is another consideration. Make the house 24 volts, use the existing 50DN, add a means of isolating the house and chassis battery banks, and set up the house batteries with an equalizer like the chassis to handle 12 V loads like the dash radio.

[Fred F.]

Your biggest problems are going to be in front of you.

People are going to cut in and steal your stopping distance. People do not know how to merge so you are going to find a car going from the ON ramp to your lane of traffic at a speed much less than yours. Traffic jams and slowdowns happen without warning and you not only have to deal with occasional hard stops, you can almost bet where traffic has to merge from 3 lanes to 2 for example you are going to get a vehicle jump in front of you and then hit the brakes. The bulk of your attention has to be on what is ahead of you because you can control your driving, but there is nothing you can do about what is happening behind you, especially if your driving causes you to make hard stops.

Put all the lights you feel comfortable with on the rear of the bus or toad. It cannot hurt, but if you are going to go overboard with strobes and excessive brightness (which is horrible for those behind you at night) at the very least make sure you disconnect the relay that operates the rear lights when the Jake or retarder is engaged. Excessive brake lights not only piss off the folks behind you, but after a while they get ignored.

In my opnion the best thing we can all do is jam the operation of cell phones for a 1/4 mile all around the coach. Maybe, just maybe it might encourage drivers to actually drive instead of surfing the web, texting, or whatever else people do with a phone.

[Fred F.]

Jon: what color LEDs? Can you post a picture or two?

[Fred F.]

The delays are not AV sync problems (lip sync is good) it’s that once you turn the system on it takes a long time to sync up and provide picture. And, when switching inputs it takes a long time to sync up then too. The stuff I bought is from http://www.brightlinkcables.com. I’m not going to say good or bad – it’s OK for the money I think.

Since I wrote this I found a long hdmi cable on amazon where most reviews said the 60′ worked. I’ve always had trouble in the past with long runs… but that was also 10 years ago… I tested it in the front TV and it works great’ so…. I ran it up there. Now the front TV switches on a dime. It’s great!

I also bought one for the bay…. but you know…. that’s a big job!

In they bay, I use the analog out from the TV to go to the car stereo.

I also put 4 of the clear rubber bumpers on the corners of the face of the tv. The bay door inside is flat so that protects the front. All I get is a bunch of rubbed off bumper dust when we drive a long trip!!

[Fred F.]

I am going to have to start checking the dates on these threads because I am responding to two year old threads.

So of you must think I am crazy.

[Fred F.]

thanks gents. We are excited to say the least

i sure will have to get those baby’s polished up…

especially since I cannot afford those dues going up at all…

might take some real engine paint skillz for me to hang with my buddy Dorel.

and yes , the ride / drive is pretty remarkable. It’s certainly true – don’t drive one if you can’t buy one…

😉

[Fred F.]

Wow,

A Lot of Great info in that article , Thanks for the Link Lonestarace ! And Thanks to Jon , Tom and Jeff for writing it. Our Coach has been on the Back Burner for a while. With College Tuition and expenses of Our Youngest who graduated in December of this year Debt Free . with a 4 Yr RN degree. And My Wife and I having a Lot of very expensive Dental work done also. We can finally start to get Our Coach headed towards the ZERO Mark ? Now I will walk in Circles for a while after reading it , Wondering how many Zeroes it will take Me to get to ” ZERO ” Yikes ??? Time to sell the Harleys and Maybe a Boat and a few Guns and or some extra work trucks sitting around, And bring the ole Girl back to life !

[Fred F.]

Unless I am mistaken, this is a 1993 chassis… that isn’t bad, just confirm what you are buying so there are no suprises.

Pres

[Fred F.]

Dick ,

yes – Jeffs was on my list, and I have now made the required pilgrimage to ETLC – 🙂

he has a 02 that is certainly being heavily considered. Really nice layout and of course all the pre-requisites on service.

Mike

[Fred F.]

If you are starting with a clean sheet of paper you are already halfway done. Locate the heavy stuff as far back as possible, such as putting the tanks for water and waste and the generator in the bay immediately ahead of the drive axle. You do yourself a huge favor by keeping the weight off of the steer axle, and in the case of generator exhaust you can exit out the bulkhead on the drive axle side of the bay eliminating a lot of the concerns about ground clearance and a hot exhaust mounted up close to the bay floors.

[Fred F.]

Merry Christmas everyone……

[Fred F.]

Geo see ya’ll at Parliment ! safe travels, jim

[Fred F.]

Tom,

I have mde sure to mention that. Thanks for the reminder.

[Fred F.]

Bill III post did ask if you were interested in his fishing trip event to sign up…so I think a sign up sheet on PC site is a good idea.