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  • Battery connections

    Posted by Mike on January 5, 2017 at 12:48 pm

    Hello everyone!!! First I would like to THANK whoever removed my post from the urgent help with my broken down clutch issue!!!! Thanks to one of you for a least commenting I did a little diggin and bought a slave cylinder from autozone for a 1981 Audi Coupe and gutted it to fit my clutch slave cylinder. Works like a champ!!!! Doing my Pre-trip Getting ready for the road tomorrow and in the process I have had this issue with battery A and A1 on the 12 volt side always needing to be charged. Took my meter and checked voltage they both read 12.2 volts (off) Battery B and B1 on the 24 volt side read 12.7 volts (off). Cranked the bus, Battery A and A1 read 12.0 volts Battery B and B1 read 15.5 volts. I have always had this problem since a major truck dealer put the new batteries in the bus. I checked the wiring from the wiring diagram on the battery door and reconnected them the way the schmatic shows. How do I get the alternator to charge batteries A and A1? It’s obvious they are not charging from the alternator!

    Thanks and HAPPY NEW YEAR everyone!!!!

    “If you own a Prevost you’ve been on a ladder!”

    Mike

    Fred F. replied 9 years, 7 months ago 11 Members · 23 Replies
  • 23 Replies
  • Mike

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 2:07 pm

    Mile,

    I moved your post to chassis from urgent and not sure if your pissed or are really thanking us. You posted on 12/23 and had until 1/9 to get it fixed, so it seemed reasonable to move the post to a non emergency. If your pissed, read this description of the emergency topic:

    This topic is for urgent help, breakdown or emergencies while traveling. Do not make any other posts in this topic, it will be deleted or moved.

  • Mike

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 2:17 pm

    Mike,

    If your reference is to chassis batteries I would urge you to make sure they are connected in accordance with the wiring diagram that should be on the side door next to the batteries.

    One of the most frequent problems reported on the forum and in my email inbox is the bus won’t start or the batteries won’t charge. Almost 100% of the time the batteries have had the cables hooked up wrong.

    Some folks have looked at them as many as three times, called them correct, and then when looking again realized there was a problem. If they are cabled together correctly the next step is to separate them and check each one individually for a bad one. One bad battery in the set can create issues.

    A final thing to check is the equalizer. I would like to see the 12 and 24 voltage when the engine is running, but if that is not possible, charge each individually to the float voltage, reinstall them, start the engine and check voltages at both 12 and 24 volt posts. The 12 volt reading should be exactly 1/2 of the 24 volt reading within 1/2 volt.

  • Archived

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 3:40 pm

    Not pissed!! Okie Dokie Mr. Tom, we are all good! Thanks!

    Thanks Jon, As a matter of fact I disconnected the equalizer a year ago thinking that the Truck dealer had shorted it out connecting the batteries wrong. It seem to be good until the batteries ran down. There looks to be 2 Varner equalizers. If the equalizer is important to charge 12 volt batteries I may have to have it checked out or replaced. I double checked the wiring by the drawing on the door. I am sure wiring is right per drawing. Only question is, there are two extra wires not on the drawing and no mention of an equalizer on the door drawing. I assume one wire goes to the front for lights because I remember leaving it disconnected and the lights were not working so I reconnected it. Is there not a way to come from the alternator or regulator with a jump wire to charge back batteries??? Thanks Fellows!

  • Per

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 4:18 pm

    Mike, You likely have self inflicted wounds. That equalizer(s) are vital. Let’s start with those. You need them connected and working. Without them the 12 volt side of the batteries will not be charged.

    The other wires are likely direct feeds to DDEC and I am guessing they are feeding power to CB 19, 20, and 21. Those circuits have power even with the master off. There are no light circuits coming directly from the chassis batteries.

  • Archived

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 5:31 pm

    Actually I bought the bus from Prevost Jacksonville and had it taken to Western Star in Dothan Alabama because the motor had water in the oil. My regret is not letting Carl Stevens send it to Orlando to repower it with a series 60 and allison automatic he had quoted $8900 from a salvage bus. I never saw the orignal wiring, they took care of screwing that all up for me at western star. What was suppose to be a $3500 repair turned out $10,000. They were so helpful in replacing the batteries, repairing the alternator and rerouting hoses to run up the bill without my approval. Guess they needed a bus on their lot if I didn’t pay up. So …. when I went to pick the bus up it would not crank. They so helpfully jump started it (new batteries) and sent me on my way. The next day it would not crank, new batteries dead. Looked at the wiring it was all wrong compared to the drawing on the battery door. Took the batteries up to NAPA and 2 were fried. Thats when I assumed the equalizer was also done in. I bought 4 Napa batteries and had no trouble for at least a year then every now then it would not crank. I would then check the batteries and charge them. I am assuming everytime I run lights, heat or ac it would drain them down. Never crossed my mind to check the voltage with engine on! So, where do I get a wiring diagram for the equalizers to connect back up and see if it is charging back to the batteries?? Thanks!

  • AL

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 6:23 pm

    Jon, I tried connecting the equalizers back up. Now I remember why I disconnected them! If you try to connect even touch the battery terminals per the drawing on the EQ it sparks like it is shorting out! Not sure what is going on with that!! Any ideas??? Other than take it to Prevost!

    Does anyone else have a 91 XL40 that can send me pics of there wiring for the batteries and equalizers??? Thanks!

  • Dick

    Member
    January 5, 2017 at 9:37 pm

    Any time I have disconnected equalizers from the batteries I have also had the batteries disconnected at the ground and the master off.

    I cannot tell you sparks are normal or not. I do know connecting terminals on a “hot” circuit does create a spark.

    Just so you are aware, the equalizers are going to maintain the 12 volt side to a value that is 1/2 of the 24 volt side so I would guess since there is no on-off switch it is working as soon as the terminals or cables touch there might be a spark, but not a shower of sparks.

    Maybe Jeff or Prevost Service can help a little on this one.

  • glen

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 5:32 am

    Number one verify that the 12v wire is showing around 12v on it that is being connected to the equalizer, and so on with the 24v and ohm out the ground. Then as connecting the ground is the last wire. When making that ground connection keep the terminal aligned with the bolt and do not hesitate in the install. Yes it can spark, especially with the batteries not evenly charged. Once connections made, start coach verify from ground to 24 volt is around 27 volts, then ground to 12 volts is half the reading or around 13.5 volts….

  • Archived

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 8:20 am

    I have a 1991 XL Mirage and it’s stored a couple hours away. Will try and get pics in a day or two for you when I go check on coach in storage. Might have a pic on cable run to batteries stored on my tablet but it is wired just like diagram on door. Seems like my coach has 4 vanners and I’ve never had to touch them. Never have had a spark with master switch off when replacing batteries.

  • Bill

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 8:59 am

    Thanks Jon, Jeff & Glen, You are mucho appreciated!!! I did a little reading last night on the Vanner site. Jon & Jeff you are right about disconnecting the ground before doing anything with the EQ. I looked at the 60-50A Family 1 pdf and the instructions for checking and connecting the EQ’s. It kept saying disconnect ground connection before doing anything. As weird as this is, when I disconnected the EQ way back when the problems began I didn’t disconnect the ground from the battery. It was still connected yesterday when I tried connecting the EQ back to the batteries. That may explain the sparks … we will see! I will check today after coffee! Thanks! Mike

    Vanner pdf http://www.vanner.com/manuals/EQUALIZER-60-SERIES.pdf

  • Archived

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 10:20 am

    prevostcar.com need last Letter in you serial number and last 4 numbers…E xample mine is w-6553. Night take a minute to get around site till you get use to it. Ck to see if you have a seperate 12V switch last bay curb side thru frame, Or vanner pop fuse out. If you have problems just call. Snow in your area??? been thru there before turns to parking lot.. Good luck Bob
    PS I had a slave cyl on bench but you disappeared… still there!

  • Archived

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 1:17 pm

    Great news!!!! Christmas has come again! I disconnected the ground and connected the 12 volt and 24 volt wires then connected the ground back. All batteries read 12.4 volts. Cranked engine all batteries read 12.9 volts. Across the 24 volts my reading was 27.6 with engine running. You guys are a GENIUS!!!!!

    And BOB, THANKS for all your help, parts and knowledge!!! Got the slave cylinder worked out but may need to get yours for a back up in the tool box!!! Just email me your phone number and I will call you about it. Thanks Bob!!

    NOW, one more thing my friends! I got two 5000 watt inverters from Santa. How do I hook those up to the chassis batteries or do I NOT????

  • Archived

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 1:42 pm

    Uh Mike…………..Hold up on the celebration for a little bit.

    The best place (easiest) is to read voltages at the terminals on the bottom of the equalizers. The 12 volt reading should be 1/2 of the 24 volt reading within 1/2 volt. The values you gave us show you might have a problem.

    Out of curiosity when the equalizers were out of the coach did you get a blue battery balance light on the dash? Are you getting one now?

  • Archived

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 3:26 pm

    Mike, is your coach is wired to handle 5000w inverters? If it’s wired to handle less, maybe a pair of Magnum MS2812 2800w-12v inverter/chargers, w/RC-50 remotes and temp sensors would b a better match?

  • Will

    Member
    January 6, 2017 at 3:32 pm

    This was seated coach in the beginning. Don’t remember balance light. on my 89 XL seated coach. Had ground problems in batt compartment. and is hard on 2 batteries (of 4) because of 12 volt loads being on all time. Some load on 12V side even when master is thrown. Just rambling and thinking thru. Bob

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