[Fred]

FWIW –I have witnessed first hand the tires on our buses will slip on the wheel in a hard braking situation. To balance the tires with wheel weights is a waste.

I have centramatics, and will use equal in addition when I can find it for less than 50 bucks a bag.

[Fred]

Well, I have made reservations at Pumpkin Patch RV, I arrive on the 4th and leave on the 10th, can’t wait! Gary

[Fred]

Glad
it didn’t turn out worse for Roger….

I don’t know what TPMS Roger has, but I’m a Pressure Pro fan, also
a dealer and for the price of the entire system, it’s cheaper than
one tire. A catastrophic failure (Blowout) may not give you any
sensor indication if the cause isn’t excess heat or low pressure
leading up to the failure. A road hazard is a road hazard and happens
usually instantly.

They are not bullet proof, but gives you piece of mind knowing you
will get a warning of low pressure or high heat in time to get off
the road before a failure. If you are not diligent in checking tire
pressures, at least with the Pressure Pro you can push a button as
often as you like to get pressures.

My problem with the 365’s is the stem hole is not big enough to
accept a sensor, necessitating a short extension that just goes
against the grain, but I’m going to do it anyway. I think the
benefits out-way the short extension concerns.

[Fred]

I agree, “odd” is not right or wrong. It is just Vantare’ took a different approach/philosophy to the electrical system design. When I first took my coach, I was a member of POG. I started asking questions and received a great deal of advice. Unfortunately, that was when there weren’t many Vantare’s in the group. Much of what I received was with the greatest of intention, but fell way off the mark because of a lack of knowledge about Vantare’ on the part of the advisers.

Over time, I was able to mentally pound most of the manuals in their various versions to develop a more comprehensive understanding of the inverters. However, what made things mush clearer was studying the Vantare’ wiring diagrams.

Do you know if you have the “bicolor board”? I suspect you do. Do you have the wiring diagrams? They help!

Good Luck!

[Fred]

Thanks for the info Tom. If your referring to the front glass, other than a chip I got in the passenger lower on the way up she’s all good; though I’m likely going to update both front and rear. This really has become a disease, for me, I buy used coaches remodel/update and loose money on the other end. But I enjoy it, so… Hoping its different in Prevost (maybe it’ll hold its value a little bit better).

[Fred]

In an effort to get the discussion away from the crack images I will add that I have had very similar problems to what flloyd described with my Kohler generator over the years. As recently as this past weekend it would not start after not being used during its previous excursion and after I had run the fuel well below the 1/3 point before refueling. I am now starting to wonder if the source of my problem is the point of fuel pick-up in the tank as the folks as Coach Pro deduced. My solution, which has worked for over two years now, and came after what I felt was the premature 2nd replacement of the fuel pump, was to install an off/on switch in place of the momentary switch used to prime the fuel pump. In the occasional instances where my generator will not start I merely flip the prime switch and then start the unit after I can hear that the pump is well primed. Typically I will leave it in this mode a few hours until enough fuel has run through the line to find all the air pockets. The only risk I see is forgetting to flip the switch off were I to shut down the generator from inside the coach and overlook turning the primer off.

[Fred]

If your looks like this while driving, be happy. JIM

[Fred]

I’ve been working all morning learning this is a Prevost installed valve. As production goes this valve is installed in other locations.

Another location and this is probably where yours might be found; open engine room doors, look at upper cap,valve should be on back side. As I’am told by Prevost.

Another example; on seated coaches this is used for front knelling , valve mounted near front.

In our case used for dumping tag air before extending slides with rocker switch or bus turning lifting tag with flip switch

Assignment; report back when you locate your K-910080 valve.

[Fred]

I spoke with John within the last few months. He stated that he was working in Michigan. Close to Detroit as I recall. He did not mention his bus, so I am sure of its current location. However, when he worked in Nashville, he mentioned to me that part of his deal with his current (Nashville) employer was a storage location in Nashville. Perhaps, his past employer could shed some light on the location of the bus.

I was under the impression that he had quit the Nashville job and returned to California. His latest employment was recent.

I am overwhelmed to hear of his passing. I will surely miss our conversations.

Hector

[Fred]

I have one of these built into my bus. Is there any advantage in having the one shown in addition to the one I already have? Can you even use two? The only difference is mine does not have the display and is hard wired into the bus. I do see lots of people using these, but have never asked if they have a built in one….

[Fred]

See if this helps.

[Fred]

I think a generic pre purchase inspection with nominal pass/fail information is very doable…it will just take time. It won’t be 100% as converters didn’t do everything the same, but they did use the same generic components. I’m pretty PDI are being conducted buy converters and conversion focused facilities. I’m guessing they are comprehensive and based on a checklist.

Is there anyone out their that paid a professional for a PDI? If so, was your PDI report one that showed everything inspected with nominal readings, like you would expect from a home inspection, or did it simply state items requiring attention? They are likely proprietary, so you shouldn’t post them.

[Fred]

Jon… Is there a list of who has signed up yet?

[Fred]

Sounds like something we should all check.

My CAC is sitting on top of the radiator. I’m surprised mine would be any different.

I haven’t looked at the mount but would assume it’s pretty heavy gauge steel. If so, a bit of flaking may not be something that will lead to failure. If it can be salvaged I’d clean it good and apply POR-15. If you have to remove the radiator and CAC to do any repair, then it may make sense to just replace it. My guess is that the radiator and CAC can be removed through the side door after removing the plastic shround. If not, it would seem to me to be a big job having to remove the fan, transfer case (or whatever it’s called), and dash air compressor.

Best of luck,

[Fred]

Jon, that pro rated refund and 2 bucks will get you a cup of coffee at the local diner.

glen s.