[Fred]

Dear Jeff………..bite me.

[Fred]

On a previous coach I used a band clamp

to go around the pipe and then drilled a hole in the hanger so one of the bolts of the clamp could be attached to the hanger. It was still working well when I sold the coach some years later.

[Fred]

Every rv toilet I had dumped directly into the black tank beneath by gravity, neither of my Prevost conversions do this.

[Fred]

We are all given 24 hours in a day it’s what you do with it !!! Trina says I use 24.5 hours a day.. LOL

[Fred]

never get anything below–except : windshield== I get windshield in blue and below windshields in blue –no red.. If I’m the only one no problem..I can skip it… bob sure it’s operator error…

[Fred]

Jim

I would try to reset the shore power circuit breaker it may have tripped, are you running the electric heaters that may have over loaded the shore power. Try running the Genny.

IMerry Christmas.

[Fred]

Dean,

It only operates with the key on and engages and disengages with the parking brake. I’ll look at my drawing and check out the logic.

[Fred]

Dean,

If you haven’t done it yet bookmark this page and then use it to access virtually everything you need to know about the coach.

The pneumatic diagram is coach specific so when you access it you will find it is a PDF file which a shop like Kinkos can print in a very large size. What is excellent about that diagram is the pictoral representation of the valves, devices and fittings is reasonably accurate as to the orientation of the components and will help you understand where to start looking. I use mine extensively and I have used various color highlighters to trace the air lines through the various valves and devices.

I would help you, but have never chased that air supply or valving on my coach.

http://prevostparts.volvo.com/technicalpublications/en/manuel.asp

[Fred]

At a few places I use a Radiator hose connected to the gray water bypass pipe then a section of 1 1/4 inch PVC and I run to a ditch or away from the bus so that I do not have a big puddle under the bus after my wife gets out of the shower.

[Fred]

Replaced my governor 4 times during my ordeal definitely not the governor. I’m thinking now I had a stuck valve in the compressor. Looking back this problem all started with the pressure maxing @ close to 150 psi. Everybody tells me the system has a backup to release pressure but when you see that much pressure on the the gauge you think “She’s gonna Blow!” or “Something about to go BOOM!”. When it got that high I would pump the brakes down to let off pressure. Turns out the AD2 was shot. All the dryer beads were gone, all I had was a empty dryer. Which promptly sent me to blow clear and clean out every line. Didn’t find much past the wet tank, everything else looked good but I kept searching. No time to give up now. You would not belive how many feet of air line is on one of these things! A truck driver friend kept telling me the governors had been ruined that’s why I kept replacing them. Turns out it may have been a stuck valve in the compressor and probably from excessive pressure. After a good enema she’s working great! Take 2 aspirin and call me tommorrow for a follow up exam! Problem solved! 🙂

[Fred]

Tom,

The commercial market for an autostart generator controller for an RV application probably didn’t mature until well after this coach was built. As you know, many converters at that time, I believe even Liberty, had their own AGS controller custom built. I’m pretty sure AGS controllers became commercially available firts as add-ons to inverter/chargers and would only work with the inverter/charger they were designed for. The one I referenced is the only one I’ve seen commercially available that will work as a stand alone controller; not dependent on an inverter/charger.

I looked at one of these solar controllers installed by another converter. The controller starts the generator based on a user selectable voltage. That’s the common trigger even today, although most will also let you use temperature as a trigger. The solar controller uses a user selectable voltage as the trigger to shut the generator down. This is perfect for a solar system. When the solar cells have the batteries to a usuable voltage it’s time to shut the generator off. That simply will not work in an RV application. When the charger kicks in the charge voltage to the batteries will reach a voltage higher than any reasonable trigger voltage you could set. Consequently, and as was the case on the coach I looked at, the AGS would start the generator and in a very few minutes shut it back down. I didn’t have a detailed schematic of the coach, so it was impossible to tell if they added anything else to the controller without digging through the coach. For this controller to actually work correctly it would need a AC relay added with a timer that would force the generator to run for a given amount of time before checking the battery voltage. Marathon probably added such a relay. As you probably know, most AGS controllers run the generator for a predetermined or configurable time. The ones that are integrated with an inverter/charger typically use a timer and battery charge state reported by the inverter/charger.

Given the one I referenced sells for under $300, I would not even consider fixing a disfunction Sun Selector unit.

[Fred]

Where’s the Shade Trees?

[Fred]

[Fred]

Thanks Gil. Unless the converter added a line back to the dryer, the only inlet that goes through the air dryer is in the right rear compartment, as on my old Prevost. There are inlets in the compartment under the driver seat for filling the system and applying brakes during towing, but they do not go through the dryer. (see picture). I assumed the now missing Jun Air compressor was plumbed to one of those inlets, but there may be other air lines that I did not see. According to the manual, there should also be schrader valves in this area that can be used to fill the primary and secondary tanks. I haven’t looked at the connectors closely, but they may be the bottom two. This is a photo I snapped before I even realized there should be an aux compressor in this compartment. I’ll have to spend time this weekend getting it figured out.

A new Jun-Air compressor model 6 is $1335. Ouch.

[Fred]

For that price I would probably be selling you sand.