[Ernest]

Nothing surprises me coming from looneyland.

[Ernest]

Rudy:

Did your test with a infrared thermal heat gun.

Line from heater to bus starts @ 128 Deg and temp at tempering valve to bus is 109 deg. After about a minute of water running the temp @ valve to bus is now down to 112 Deg and temp out of tempering valve is about 105 deg.

Cold Water from tank going into AquaHot tank is around 86 deg. Also remember I turned the tempering valve all the way up to max 145 deg stetting.

Apparently I have multiple issues.

Chuck

[Ernest]

~$220/wheel (only one needed for each pair of drive tires). So ~$1300 for all 6.

[Ernest]

Wow. You are the antidote to cruisair insanity. My new hero. Installing roof airs is to be my wintertime project this year for my 2001 Marathon XLII. I (and I am sure others ) will have you on speed dial under “roof air expert”. Thanks for the long, detailed post. Did you put any reinforcement in roof? That has been part of my planning. Can’t wait for the pics. Mike

[Ernest]

Mike, There is always going to be sudden surprises, including on our pneumatic systems. Everything from a burst air bag to a relay valve that fails to seat and thus cannot build air. Similarly a brake chamber can fail, but usually their failures tend to be diaphragms which will start to leak slowly and then eventually tear completely.

But one thing is sure, if you do not do pre-trip inspections, especially the DOT brake check you may have to deal with an on the road surprise instead of making a repair before you are disabled.

As food for thought a failed brake chamber is not a show stopper. Do not interpret that to suggest it is OK to drive until a brake chamber is losing air so fast you cannot drive. But if there is a large leak in a brake chamber plug air to the air line going to the brake chamber, and if it is a parking brake chamber issue, cage the spring brake until you can get the coach to a shop for repairs.

As owners we may not be capable of making a temporary repair such as in a parking brake brake chamber, but knowing and understand it can be done and the coach driven safely we do not become victims of road service technicians as has happened to some members.

[Ernest]

Some generic generator tips.

To verify that your stator and field windings are OK, disconnect wires at terminal block and measure resistance (should be very low for main windings, about 60+- Ohms for field). Check for short to ground. There should be none.

If your generator has brushes and your field resistance is high, clean commutator and re-seat brushes. If all that pans out, your issue is upstream (regulator, breakers, wiring etc).

There should be plenty of residual magnetism to bootstrap the field unless the generator has not been used in a very long time. If you reflash the field, put a 10 amp fuse in your supply line.

[Ernest]

Thanks for letting me know the inverters or a setting on the inverters would not have anything to do with this. Greg.

By the way the coach is an H3-45 if that makes a difference. Thanks.

[Ernest]

Amen

[Ernest]

I got a notice that something called ‘Dues Money’ was deposited in my checking …..$3,000,000! Then, poof!, it was gone…. can’t explain it…. I’m disappointed, I hate glitches!

Mark

[Ernest]

Dick – please let us know what you learn

[Ernest]

Jimmy, by now you realize intermittent problems are the worst kind to have and even worse to try to diagnose and repair.

I know you and others prefer to avoid being sucked into doing things that relate to doing service on your coach, but I really think as owners our best defense is often possessing information.

Warnings about lo or hi chassis electrical voltage or the warning about battery balance are the type of things we should pay attention to and determine if the warning is valid or false. If the service facility had the warning light on continuously your diagnosis and repair costs would have been minimal. Where you could benefit is to do the first thing any qualified technician will do. That is to use a multi-tester to measure the voltages. If they are within the normal range the best action is to keep driving until the intermittent light stays on all the time. At that point anyone with access to the Prevost electrical diagrams for your coach can follow the circuit and identify the cause.

By knowing via your test for voltages there is really not a problem you have peace of mind and know nothing is wrong except with something in the system that causes the light to come on.

If we own our coaches long enough most of us will encounter dash warning lights. They can be battery balance, hi or lo voltage, check engine or stop engine. Usually when they occur the verification of what they are telling us is usually easy and getting a good diagnosis starts with someone like you doing a basic check while the light is on to get vital information that will lead to a diagnosis.

There are a lot of us on here, including some of our advertisers who can coach anyone through a simple series of checks, assuming you have some basic tools because nothing is more important in diagnosis of problems than doing that diagnosis while it is happening.

[Ernest]

As should be stated, that must be some kind of carb, and I want the car it goes into.

[Ernest]

Tom, I received the notice from Jon that the dues were going up which is charged ‘by the foot’…… so, I thought I could save a few bucks going from 45 to 23. And, there is going to be a surcharge for height starting in 2022.

Mark

[Ernest]

I don’t think I can get new wires to power box but did some research and I already have 2.0 wires on dc side and 10 gage on the romex to power box so if I put in junction boxes and 10 gage to inverters should be good thank you very much for your help. Jim

[Ernest]

Thanks Ralf

Chuck