[Erik]

I had an engine compartment fire and learned a whole lot.

First, I have no knowledge of how efficient a fire suppression system is, its coverage, or its value as a primary protection against a fire. I do know if you are driving down the road you are unlikely to realize you are on fire. I had no clue other than a flickering image on the back up camera something was going on, until a trucker told me specifically we had an engine area fire.

Without going into detail the fire was fueled by burning A/C system refrigerant ignited as it blew past the A/C compressor seal which spread up the rear tail light housing, curled across the top of the engine bay, burning battery cables and batteries.

We saved the coach by throwing water from the water holding tank on flames and areas red hot as a result of flames burning on them, like the A/C compressor clutch. Multiple large sized extinguishers failed to sufficiently reduce temperatures and escaping refrigerant was ignited by the red hot clutch which we managed to cool sufficiently using an abundance of water from the water tank drain. The electrical system was sufficiently damaged to prevent the operation of any device that needed electric.

There is no right or single way to protect the coach. When the fire department arrived everything was extinguished and the fireman had the balls to lecture me about the use of water on an engine compartment fire. He had no clue had that abundance of water had not been used the cherry red metal parts would have continued to be the ignition source for refrigerant, fuel, oil or whatever.

[Erik]

I’ve thought about this too.

I road race an older NASCAR Cup car and helped build an ARCA car that we raced. I’ve looked closely inside a dozen or more NASCAR cars over the years.

ARCA required a fire suppression system that had two fire bottles; one that was triggered by “heat” in the trunk where the fuel cell is and one that the driver could trigger sprayed fire-retardant stuff in the driver’s compartment and in the engine compartment.

From what I’ve come to understand these systems aren’t really intended to put the fire out. They might, but don’t count on it. They are intended to “suppress” the fire long enough for the driver to get out and away from the burning car or provide some time for the safety crew to get to the car with all their firefighting tools … like fancy fire extinguishers and lots of water.

A good friend is a retired fire chief who spent his career with two fire departments between Milwaukee and Chicago near and along I-94; lots of horrific vehicle accidents often with fire. He also had a second career as Chief of Safety & Rescue at Road America for ten or twelve years and is a certified safety instructor for NASCAR, IndyCar, and IMSA. I told him we carry 200 gallons of fresh water and I wondered if I came upon a vehicle fire on the road if it made sense for me to try to “fight the fire” with a long hose and my 200 gallons of water. He said that a vehicle fire typically takes many, many hundreds of gallons of water to put out. He said it depends on what is fueling the fire (oil? gasoline? diesel? plastic? wood? tire? etc.) and what has gotten “hot”. He didn’t give me much encouragement beyond running to the vehicle with my fire extinguishers to (safely) make sure the people and animals were out and 911 was called.

I vaguely recall a PC member (Jon Wehrenberg?) mentioning that a fire suppression system in the engine compartment of the coach is of limited value because it’s so open and the suppression material will likely blow away quickly resulting in limited value in fighting an engine compartment fire. This makes sense to me. That might also apply to the area where the drive and tag axles are a tire fire might occue. Plus, by the time we’d get to the fire to invoke the fire system, it’s going to get pretty hot. An engine compartment fire suppression system might put out a small fire as it starts, but once it gets going … stand back.

I think that an enclosed generator compartment might be different situation. If a fire starts in there having a bottle going off automatically or by manual triggering, it might be possible to stop the fire or at least really slow it down. Has anyone put a remote thermometer in their engine compartment? How hot does it get in there?

I think it’s important to think about what triggers a fire and what feeds a fire. Chaffing wires and cables, chaffing oil/lube lines, leaking oil/lube lines, hot tires, seizing bearings, etc. We can hedge against these situations by looking for these problems and making sure these risk factors are reduced with good gaskets that aren’t leaking, tight fittings, tie wraps, fire sleeves on wiring and hoses, loom clamps, and all the do-dads that are used to support and hold together wiring, cables, and hoses.

I think remote thermometers with set warning temps have value. It will probably take a while to “learn” what the normal operating temperature is of the enclosed generator box or the engine compartment, etc. Get an abnormally high temperature, it might be time to investigate.

I’d be interested to know if any Prevost owners have added a fire suppression system to their coach.

PS: I had a fuel fire at the front of the engine of the Cup car the second year I ran the car. It occurred on-track at the Milwaukee Mile road course. I’d already worked a corner and knew each corner had “one” fire bottle and that might not be enough. Fortunately, I knew exactly where a MM safety truck was parked with two crew members and a dozen fire bottles; they got the job done, but what a mess! That was an awfully exciting experience I hope to never go through again.

[Erik]

Not exactly a suitable topic for Emergencies, but as long as it is here I will offer a concern.

I do not know who did the conversion or where the bus is stored relative to where you live or work, but if a coach is remotely stored and if it must have power on 24/7 a risk assessment is necessary. Storing a coach that has been put to “sleep” has minimal risk, but if it is not put to sleep and needs power for whatever reason the first concern has to be about what happens in the event of a power disruption? I’m not talking about a storm related power outage in which it will return after a few hours, but a tripped breaker, a tripped GFCI, or some other permanent loss of power.

Inverters if not provided input power will eventually shut down, allowing the batteries to be depleted. Refrigerators with food in them when power is lost result in loss of food and some nasty odors.

I’m sure almost all the time the coach and power is OK, but there is a risk versus reward scenario here possible dangerous depending on conditions not described here.

[Erik]

There is a difference in steer and drive design in tread which is important for tractor trailer operations. The steer can be used in the drive if you are doing mainly road driving, The commercial operators must have drive tire that will give good traction in varying road conditions they encounter delivering their cartage.

[Erik]

Thanks Jeff!

[Erik]

Art: do you drive up the ramps alone? Or have someone spotting for you?

Have you thought of drilling holes in the ramps to lighten them?

[Erik]

[Erik]

Are you getting power to the unit?

[Erik]

Chad,

You have pictures of the changed voltage regulator? I have a 1989 chassis. I am almost certain my VR is original.

R

[Erik]

It all ends up depending on your needs. All models mentioned above have their place in the RV world.

Prevost: As you all know a superb ride quality and unsurpassed fit/finish. Surprisingly easy to drive. It’s possible but not designed to tow heavy. Very safe especially for the passengers in the back. Most of them designed for 2 people.

Super C on a Cascadia Chassis: The Renegade and showhauler are very well made. I enjoyed a tour through the Renegade factory and they have it figured out. This was before they got bought out. I personally like the Classic series for how they are build. The Icon and XL use fibreglass walls and the Classic uses a 3/4″ laminated one piece wall and roof system. I disliked the 13 speed auto as it seemed like it was always trying to find the right gear at lower speeds. Renegade locks the cab so the suspension is somewhat hard. Good air ride seats make up a lot. For sure louder than the Prevost in the cab area. Very noisy when sitting in the back. And it’s a truck, so towing capacity is up to 40K Lbs. With 600 HP and about 43K lbs weight it goes up hills like nothing.

Stay away from the older models like the Freightliner Columbia. They are VERY noisy. Besides that, pre 2010-2012 Super C’s are very basic.

Super C on Freightliner M2 chassis: Shorter truck (36-39 ft) and a good compromise. Same as above, Renegade makes a great product. I think you are better off with a used Renegade than a new Dynamax. I have seen many dynamaxes at the track and as I see it they are made like a standard stick and staple Class A. On the bottom of the pile there is the Jayco Seneca and Jayco Embark. The chassis is great, especially the Embark with the 350 HP and 20K towing capacity. But that’s where it ends. The build quality of the house part is comparable with a budget travel trailer. Very low quality materials and extremely poor workmanship.

If you are not afraid to spend $$ and luxury is your middle name, it’s the Prevost.

Do you want to bring more than 2 on a regular bases, don’t mind a truck like ride and need to haul your fully loaded race trailer, get a Renegade Icon, XL or Classic.

Don’t need 45′ of motor home but need a well build unit that can tow, the Renegade on a M2 chassis is your choice.

And please, stay away from the class A’s. Virtually all of them are junk. I would never buy or drive anything other than a Prevost or a Super C.

FYI I owned a 2016 39′ Super C on a M2 Chassis, Drove thousands of miles coast to coast in a 2017 Renegade Cascadia to tracks in North America and currently own a Marathon Prevost. I recently sold my RV parts and repair business and I can fill pages of the absolute garbage the RV manufactures produce. And no, we did not sell any, just repair.

I would sell/trade my Prevost in a heartbeat for a well appointed Renegade if my needs require this change.

[Erik]

I think Mike and Lonestar are both offering valid suggestions.

I am going to assume a set of gauges are being used because this is a critical part of system analysis. To rule in or out the capacitor just swap one with a CA that is working.

[Erik]

Hey chuck does that nut that holds the adjustment screw come off and expose the water passage?

[Erik]

You need to stop thinking the accessory tank pressure and your front drooping are somehow related. They are not.

[Erik]

I noticed a fair change in inside temperature after filling the roof with solar panels. They create an air bridge between the panel and the roof and as a result the roof temperature dropped.

Besides that painting it white reduced inside temperature with double digits.

For the cruise airs, the work ok. Not sure how they will keep up if the bus wasn’t pre-frozen by the OTR!

[Erik]

Chip, Under your front dust cover at the top of the bottom cushion is 2 small bolts. Remove these bolts, lift up and remove the seat bottom. You will find a plastic 1/2 disk with an adjustment screw that control the amount of air for height and soft or firm. This adjustment should be set firm enough not to bottom out. Hope this helps. Darrell