Ed
Forum Replies Created
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New 2012 4×4 jeep simple here $19,500 at dealer. Bob,
Please tell me where I can buy that 2012 Wrangler for that price.
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I hear your pain brother, I pulled 20 pounds of “dead” av wire out of my bus so far (and more to come) I don’t know how many times the AV system was “upgraded” but to say it was done by amatures would be an understatement.
What was really bizzare was the number of times 7 or 14 foot “stock” av cable was used to run 1 or 2 feet. The ‘slack’ was just wound up and crammed under something – rarely even tied down.
If you don’t have one, spend $100 or so over on amazon for a CCTV tester .. basically a little box that has A/V inputs and a small screen. Its worth its weight in gold when you are chasing down signals on unmarked and uncolorcoded wires.
A signal injector and an amplifier helps when chasing the little unmarked buggers too.
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On my Onan I was experiencing difficulty to get it going…..changed the Glo Plugs and VOILA! Also, holding down the preheat a bit longer seems to help…..Check prices on glo plugs, Onan wanted to sell me gold plated ones, or at least, they must have been gold plated along with the diamond stud washers.
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Here is some very good information on tanks etc. from the Drainmaster.com website. I have their valves in my coach, and the site has lots of info. This is cut from a .pdf they have for download there.
1. The not-so-obvious dangers of leaving the Gray Valve Open
RVers sitting for long periods of time in RV resorts, etc. tend to leave the gray water valve open because it is inconvenient to go outside to pull the valve every few days. This practice leads to future problems with bad odors coming from the tank through the vent pipe or dry a p-trap. In addition leaving the Gray valve open allows the drained water to splash into the empty tank and the particulate in the water adheres to the sidewalls of the tank, and then dries!
2. How suction in your holding tank can be your best friend
Keeping the Gray Valve closed until the tank is 2/3rds full, and then opening the valve allows the suction created to pull most of the scum out of the tank and down the drain. With the valve closed as the tank fills a scum builds up on the surface not on the tank walls.
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Would this thing work like a trailer donkey (could you lift the tongue of the trailer and then wheel it around the shop)?
It would really be a step up from what I am using now (a lot of elbow grease and grunting).
BCO
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Hi Gil, Can you tell me more about where and how you install this “High Presure Meter” for the Racor? Maybe you can post some pictures too? Thank you.
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$113ea out the door. Just stopped by took my old ones in and walked out with new 16 service-24 park matched them up/ with new service rubbers 113$ each (new not rebuilt) .I also ask if they could rebuild old ones –they said they did not do that type Rockwell durmaster. also wasn’t worth it. Haldex : service side was clean as could be. no corrision. life is good! Bob
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Lot of labor there for sure, looks really nice.
Take two atta-boys outta petty cash for a job well done.
BCO
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Welcome to Prevost Community…
You guys are so lucky to have found this site prior to buying a bus… the info you will get will amaze you…the constant feedback is great, along with the humor.
Everyone will welcome you to the OKC mini rally… a great opportunity to visit with owners and see what they like and dislike about their coaches… one word of caution would be “don’t ask if you don’t REALLY want to know”.
Looking forward to meeting you both in OKC.
Diane & Larry
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The very reason I got rid of my 08 Beaver was it’s 2007+ CAT engine. DEF is not necessary to reach those temperatures; they are reached when the DPF goes through a burnoff. DPFs are a very bad thing. It’s too bad the EPA is killing the over the road diesel engine industry. CAT and Detroit have both exited the market and Navistar’s EGR based engines don’t appear to be meeting the EPAs requirements.
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Jon thanks ill check the diagrams and see whats what .I put the check valve in today and set my aux compressor to start at 25 psi and stop at 48 psi . If I understand correctly the aux air compressor fills the aux tank in steering compartment that is used to flush toilet, door wedge lock, stept well cover slide, and possibly something else , I have no pocket doors or air bed lift, I not sure what else may be operated by it. When i bought the bus the previous owner told me he had removed the 12 volt aux compressor and installed a new 120 volt in the cavaty behind the ft bumper, it would turn on about every 15 min and was noisy and vibarited the floor ,not good .When I decided to repair this I saw that it was one of thoes compressors that oil less and used for blowing up lawn mower tires, the reason for the frequent start was the rust pin hole in the bottom of its three gallon tank,. Well it came out and Jun-Air is in They had an airline that went to the aux tank drain from the old 120v drain this put air to aux tank . They had the main regulated feed from the 120v compressor hooked to the line that (i think was the preasure line to fill the aux tank) and when i start the bus it develope preasure that i think was blowing through the 120v compressor and flling the aux tank by way of drain line, Now heres how i have it out of new comp with a check valve on at 25 off at 48 no regulator goes to a T preasure line from supply goes to T and the line supplying the aux tank goes to last spot on T. This way with no supply from engine it will have 25 to 48 psi from junair when engine is running the aux will not run because the preasure in the aux tank is well over 48 psi seams to be working but im not sure were my supply lines comes from it appears to go up to drivers area by driver seat. My bus is a 1994 Vantare my firs Prevost aways had Wanderlodges but aways wanted a Prevost .
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Gary,
As to what is defined as the specific Prevost service levels that might be located on their site. I would caution everyone however to pull up the maintenance schedule that pertains to your coach and using that as a starting point create your own coach specific task list based on miles, time and how you use the coach.
I suggest that because there are so many items I find myself doing when I service my coach that I am not sure they are listed anywhere. To give a couple of examples I never lube the coach (about 5000 to 6000 mile intervals) without completely draining all air tanks and verifying the operation of the protection valves. With no tension on the engine belts I spin the idler pulleys and other rotating parts such as the alternator to check for any indications of bearing problems. When I am looking at the wheels, hubs and brakes I am looking at friction material thickness, signs of hub seal leaks and cracks in drums or rotors. The point being these are not things I do if I think of them, but they are specific maintenance tasks that are as important to me as getting grease into a fitting.
Gil,
Everything I needed for my 97 coach was on the link. I do not know what the earliest year you will find on the link, but I know from poking around there are some PDF files for some very old electrical and pneumatic diagrams.
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There might already be a check valve in the supply line side of the regulator / valve assembly on your coaches. It just might not be working, or the leak may be downstream from the check valve. With patience and a spray bottle it can be checked.
I have had a leaky regulator, a leaky valve (air leaked past the valve and out the exhaust port) and leaky belt tensioning bellows. Once you are confident you have no leaks, then if the belts go slack the problem can likely be the check valve.
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Gil, the one way valve is before the valve/regulator.
Another benefit to having this one way valve is on your pre trip inspection if the belts are loose your leak has been narrowed to that mini bags, regulator, or lines.
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Greg / Hector
I have been trying to get the fast idle to work right after I start up with the transmission in neutral and the parking brake on.
Is the parking brake pressure switch located right below the barking brake button or is it remote like in the electrical bay? I tried getting to it by opening up the consol that it is mounted on, but that is proving to be difficult to get into. Did you replace to entire mechanism?