Doug
Forum Replies Created
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with my Internet stories.
Well, the DSL modem never quite delivered for us. We were promised 18 down and 1 up but at best, we got 3-4 down and much less than 1 up. This kind of data speed is just not enough for serious work. Especially, when you have to download or upload files.
As I had mentioned in my earlier post, the park does have fiberoptic cable right into the middle of the park. But it is not being used.
The resort hotel across the street does have fast Internet, however, so I had to go over there a couple of times to download some 1GB plus files, which would have been nearly impossible to do in the RV park.
So … when DSL did not cut it for us, I contacted BBT (Big Bend Telephone) and asked them about connecting me to fiber.
To make a long story short, they did. All it took was 2 point-to-point Ubique 5Ghz antennas and a lot of $$$ and about 5-6 hours of labor on the part of the tech.
We have been enjoying broadband internet for over a week and we are the envy of the park … 🙂 – We typically get 50-60 down and 25-35 up as opposed to the park‘s WiFi of about 2 down and 1 or less up.
I had to buy the equipment, i.e. 2 antennas and the router. Have somebody already wanting to buy them of of me when we leave here at the end of February.
Incidentally, there is an app which shows you detailed covereage for all the major carriers. The name is Coverage. You can select the carrier and service and then drill down on your location. I am attaching a screen print sample.
We will be traveling within reach of civilization again after we leave here. So no more boring stories, for a while.
🙂
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Art,
Go to the big blue box that says Fuel Discount.
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What coach conversion is it.
I have a 07 Marathon H3 and because they used such small heat exchangers in the coach, (3), they will not keep my coach warm enough when the temps are in the 30s.
All of my heat exchangers use those small 4″ computer type fans and they just will not move enough air to warm the coach.
With outside temps in the 30s it will not warm the coach any higher than about 67 or 68, I have to use the 110 volt tow kick heaters as well as the Webasto heat exchangers.
Really poor design on Marathon’s part.
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Jon did an “article” and there is a link at the top of the PC home page for “articles”.
Here’s the link, you must be logged on to access it
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Where the water heater element is located (and you must be close based upon that picture) is a thermostat and a high temp. limit switch (resettable). Mine has died several times (the last board lasted 2 days).
You can check the little sensors for continuity and if there is none you need to replace it. My thermostat is the one that keeps dying. The replacement boards are cheap.
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We might be. Right now we’re just up the road from you at Grand Oaks Resort and Very Nice RV Park.
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Charles,
Before you change out the valve, accept the advice provided in an earlier response to check the accumulator tank and make sure it has the correct bladder pressure. If your accumulator has lost pressure or is water logged you might as well buy the pressure relief valves in quantity.
Having said that, if you do not wish to add some means of limiting tank temp, either by turning off the coolant valves to the tank, or installing a thermostatically operated solenoid valve, you are still going to dump hot water on occasion through the relief valve because the tank water temps are going to open it.
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I would follow Dave’s instructions which would be Lifeline specific and you may want to ask Magnum your charging question. I could tell how mine work, but don’t want to suggest how yours should be setup.
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Have you replaced the Li battery on the back of the A-B. My was acting up and the battery needed to be replaced, once I did everything work fine again.
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Charles is absolutely correct because no matter who is engaged to find out what is happening, the very first thing that is going to be done is to read the codes.
The Prevost Car web site, under parts and maintenance, then publications is going to provide access to the service manual for your coach, and from that you can determine how to “flash the codes”.
But I suspect you have a problem to fix first and that is to open the dash panel and make sure the check transmission, red stop engine light and the amber check engine lights have working bulbs.
Before you get a shutdown you you should be getting a red SEL light and an audible alarm. If you do not have a Pro-Diesel display you cannot access the codes without a reader if the lights and alarm are not working.
There are only three reasons for an engine shut down on your vintage coach: low oil pressure, high coolant temp, low coolant level. Assuming all of those conditions were not the case it appears to be a bad sensor or sensor ground.
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The coach might be registered to the business. And if so just being a commercial vehicle impacts rates.
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I’m in Freddy, whatever the majority does. I would prefer Presidents View, been there years ago and the only way to go, but will follow the crowd.
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Jon, Went we were at the seminar, Jeff replaced the air spitter valve in the front driver side bay with one that I can drain. When it get a bit lighter out this morning I was going to check that for leaks. Probably just coincidental that I noticed it now. I don’t hear it running often at night. I don’t hear any leaks around the seat, will check the belt tension system. I really enjoyed the seminar and all the effort you put into it! Thanks!
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Al and Truk (Tom),
This is a shot of what I guess is Marathon’s take on a filter. I did take it out and it basically just keeps out small birds, (pretty minimal). Is this all there is?
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I agree Gerald, great explanation. Now, I know didley s%$# about electronic stuff, so in my case I just call my warranty guy in Kansas City.