DON
Forum Replies Created
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If your interested, the “Prevost Service Manual” for your coach is available.
The procedure for setting ride height is on page 16-10 of the service manual. (PDF page 906)
Just another source of information.
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Ditto on Roadmaster All Terrain. Bulletproof and never locks up preventing an easy release.
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Yes I think you can.
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Jim, I believe mine are Grohe faucets.
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SMX controls the heat and ac functions in each zone of the bus.
This is Marathon specific.
You don’t have this in a Royal.
Later
bv
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What is the VMSpc? I replaced the check valve and regulator for belt tensioner and now my belts never get loose, before i start each day on trips I check the oil and look at sight glass on antifreeze and belts are always tight, 1 less thing to do.
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Complete new door handle Amazon $24 to $35 bucks no alterations it’s the same as the old handle. Doorman part# 760-5206
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Will do Al. Thanks.
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Forget the unit number. Make sure you select a 45 foot X MTH and put in your chassis year. The chassis year may differ from the year on the title so use the chassis year from the VIN.
In anticipation of that question, look up owner’s manuals and look for the VIN description page and how to interpret the VIN, including chassis year.
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And most likely all the fan motors you can get now are made in China and with them it is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.
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Those 5 solenoid valves control the leveling system.
It is likely the leak you hear is from one of the “O” rings on the bottom of the valve itself.
Remove the “c” ring and pull it from the valve stem. The valve itself is held in place with two screws, I think in your vintage torx head screws. Remove them and lift the valve body out.
Be vigilant because beneath the solenoid valve will be two small O rings. Make sure they come out and are not stuck to the manifold. It is likely you just need to replace them but you can buy the solenoid valve from Norgren. I think Prevost will try to sell you the entire manifold but that is a huge expense compared to just buying the needed O rings or valve body.
When you reassemble the valve to the manifold I insure the O rings stay in place by putting a tiny dab of grease on the bottom of the valve to keep them in position until I can tighten the screws.
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I don’t think my model # will do you any good now…superseded. Donaldson spiracle…largest available for class 8 trucks.
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That makes sense Jon
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Mark and I are 5000 mile advocates. For me the reason is simple. Prevost calls for a chassis lube at 6200 miles and I cannot track that on my odometer as easy as 5000 mile intervals so I figure as long as I am down under the coach I might as well change oil and filters.
While I use both Delvac and Rotella I have no way of knowing which is best. I use Baldwin filters mostly, but have used Detroit and Donelson also. Again, I have no way of knowing which is best.
But I do know one thing that absolutely amazed me. When I changed oil pan gasket this summer I expected to find some evidence of the silver gray sludge or film in the bottom of the oil pan. There was none. Not even a little, and while I want to suggest the 5000 mile oil and filter changes are the reason there might be another.
A while back my EGR seemed to not engage until my RPM hit 3200, and then turn off at 3400. At the same time there was a blockage in the system so no exhaust gases could leak past the EGR valve into the intake manifold. The change was subtle but as soon as that EGR defect occurred my oil started staying cleaner longer after an oil change. After a year or so my oil as viewed on the dipstick retained the nearly perfect gold color seen after a change for almost 2500 miles. It is my opinion the passage of exhaust gases back into the engine contributed to the black oil color soon after an oil change and the now obviously cleaner oil on the dipstick might also explain in part why there was zero sludge or film on the bottom of my oil pan.
But as regards choice of oil or filters it is my opinion that meet the spec for the engine will work. The engine shows 160,000 miles on the odometer, but there is no visible sign of dirt or sludge or wear anywhere.
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While looking in the battery compartment to check on the vanner connections after seeing the post on the shorted out units I found the terminal on one of the relays burnt. Looking at the electric drawings and comparing the wire numbers I think it is for the Bus Air Compressor but not sure (not to good at reading electrical drawings). Is this the area your relay was in?
I did notice the insulation/isolation material between the base nut on the stud and the solenoid was fractured and allowing the base nut on the stud to contact the solenoid which in turn is grounded to the body