DON
Forum Replies Created
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My understanding is same as Dana, the compressor will fail early and this was from AAP as well from ETLC and Jeff deals with this issue every day.
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Those compressors you purchased and installed are not the correct ones and will not handle the needs. Saying that, they will probably not last 6 mos. Another bad thing is AAP has gone under, so we are looking for a different source for the correct size compressor.
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Dish soap and water in a spray bottle will tell you if the sensor or valve stem or extension is leaking. You can do it with the bus on the ground, just move bus till the valve is near but not at the bottom of the inner wheel. Set the spray bottle on “stream” setting and spray away. Crawl around on the ground with a flashlight and you should see bubbles somewhere if it is leaking. If no leaks, there can spray same solution all over tire and tire rim junction. Don’t forget the part of the tire that is on the ground – will have to move the bus. The Pressure pro sensor can leak at the seam around the circumference, or where the brass part goes into the plastic. Should be rare on new sensor. Can alternatively test that for leaks by temporarily putting it on the tag to make it easier to see.
My recommendation is to get rid of the inner wheel valve extensions, even if they are not leaking, sooner or later they will. They may not have leaked without a sensor on them because they normally are not pressurized except when filling or checking pressure. When you screw the sensor on, the pin disengages the tire valve stem from the seat and you have multiple points where the system can leak. I had this happen to me, I ditched the extensions.
This tool will make it easier to work on the inner valve core while wheels are still on the bus, can be used for outers too if pointing the right way.
Make up a tool with a 12″ or so piece of 3/4″ pvc pipe and a glue type coupler, picture on prior post:
/threaddetails.asp?Category=General%20Discussions%3E&ThreadID=2709#23283
The pressure pro sensor fits right in the end of the coupler and you can screw it on and off the tire valve which should be set to point towards one of the holes in the outer wheel.
Regarding turning the outer valve stems, you can loosen up the nut and just turn the stem to point where you need it to be, then re tighten the nut – there is a spec for torque – it is a surprisingly high 10 foot pounds. MOST of the time the gasket between the stem and the inside of the wheel will remain functional, but if it is very old some chance it may disintegrate. Recommend you do not try this repositioning while in deep space, wait till you are in spaceport.
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I fitted some sun shields for almost all the side windows. This was made from https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831QM1TW?th=1
We are getting into mid-90’s here in Texas right now. Adding this has made a huge difference in inside temps. I think this is the only way I can travel in the Summer and maintain reasonable inside temps while using the RVAC + dash A/C.
I am trying to avoid running the generator while driving, so trying to use only the RVAC (and not turning on two Cruseairs). Also, front CruiseAir seems to stop working in high outside heat after a couple hours.
So far the shields are just placed without anything holding them there. With cellular window shades down, I think they will stay in place. There’s a couple spots, left and right above driver & passenger, where I’ll need to use something, probably velcro.
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Thanks. Given my fuel tank is hidden away, I am guessing this will not be easy.
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That’s only for Democrats.
Later
bv
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BDuplan:
The plastic cap is not there to keep the freon in. The plastic cap is to keep debris out. Under that plastic cap is a normal R134a service valve with a schreider/check valve, like at the compressor, and on our daily drivers since 1995.
Maybe the service valve is not back seated (closed), or it leaking when its closed, allowing pressure at the schreider/check valve that is also leaking?
Service valve Prevost part# is 950228.
Because I don’t have the equipment to force 24 Lbs of R134a into the system, I service my OTR system at the R134a fittings on the O5G compressor and let it suck it in.
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Thanks Don, I’ll give you a call a little later.
Maybe it’s not a gauge port but just a port to add refrigerant and that isolation valve should remain back-seated unless you have a tank hooked up. Either way, it’s leaking and needs replaced.
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Darrell/Dmac:
I didn’t change the pulley. I changed the bearing in the pulley. Part#s are in this thread in my previous post. The pulley you might get from PrevostParts or a salvage yard.
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Don, A year ago you posted about rebuilding your OTR A/C idler pulley, a 5 inch 2 groove pulley. Do you have a part # and where to purchase. Thanks in Advance, Darrell in Dallas,Texas
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Here is what mine looks like. I hope this helps?
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Do you know if it is stuck mechanically (obstruction) or the air valve won’t shift?
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Don-
Your profile photo was my first clue, that you know your way around the track. I will get one built, as by the time I get all the quality tools necessary to do a good job, I could have it done better, faster and cheaper. It’s a whole new world being without tools at this point in life.
Any modification in length of line? I believe you and I have the same year and model of bus, different converters, but would think the chassis would be very close.
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Engine rebuild update if anyone is interested. I have the engine just about ready to go onto the cart. Then I will couple it with the transmission. Just a few things to do before sliding her back in.
I will finish making the remainder of the air conditioning hoses and get the A/C system all connected up and tested. Dash air is complete, now moving to galley and bedroom evaporators.
Make down-the-road A/C work electrically with new roof-mounted condenser. Need to make both dash air and galley and bedroom controls all turn on compressor and condenser.
Rebuild air dryer, install new u-joint, paint engine oil pan, paint transmission oil pan, coolant lines, install new radiator, rebuilt boston gear box, shaft and pulley, etc.
100 other odds and ends.
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It comes in the improved Detroit Diesel 50DN alternator vent line kit, DD kit# 23528624, or build your own. It’s intended to help reduce oil leaks from the 50DN alternator. Original DD bulletin #14-60-00. Around 2002-2003 and later this kit was installed as original equipment from the factory. Again, on ebay etc.