Davy
Forum Replies Created
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Thanks, Larry. That is pretty straight forward. Just to be clear, does you Vantarre have a switch that bypasses the inverters as mine does?
Also, what is involved in reprogramming the inverters?
DKO
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Vantare experts can add to this or correct this, but when changing house batteries I think there are just a few basic rules to follow.
The first is to shut the coach down. Do the shut down according to the procedures your converter has outlined, usually turning off the inverters first, shutting off 120 Volt power to them next, and then turning off the house electric master switches. Verify there is no power to the house ANYWHERE. Then check again. It would not hurt to unplug the coach. Do not ever forget that if the inverter is on, and it has no incoming shore or generator power, it can convert battery DC power to AC power. You want to be sure you have no power anywhere.
Access the batteries and to the extent possible anyplace you can envision the positive terminals or posts making contact with any part of the chassis or any ground terminal or post, insulate it as a precaution. Duct tape works good, masking tape will work, or anything else that will prevent contact.
As cables and terminals are going to be connected in a fashion specific to the coach make a drawing, take photos, mark the terminal with numbers and create a diagram. or do anything else possible to insure whatever you remove goes back exactly where it belongs. When you remove a cable, insulate its terminal by taping it. No sense risking a spark.
Don’t get under the coach unless it is supported. Don’t hurt your back trying to lift or pull batteries and don’t be afraind to get help.
Once the batteries are removed take advantage to see if anything needs to be repainted, to do a complete inspection of what is blocked by the batteries to make sure nothing is rubbing, leaking, loose, or otherwise in need of attention.
There might be specific things unique to your coach, but if you follow the above steps you should have no issues.
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Could there be a GPH factor…Truck fueling stations pump much faster than auto locations. That said,having grown up in a gas station and pumped gas into many many different cars/trucks while growing up,we always knew which ones would “Burp” and spill precious fuel on us and the customers car. I remember quite well when the auto companies went to the rear gas tank opening behind the license plate,that we had to learn to listen and then slow down the speed of the pump to avoid spillage. I wonder if there is a difference in fueling spout “runs” from the opening into the tank between the H and XL models and/or 40/45 footers? Of course the tanks are shapped much different that an auto,but even the physical shape of the top of the fuel tank with a heavy flow under pressure could cause a “Burp” I don’ think the truckers have this problem due to the shape/access to their fuel tanks being direct flow instead of any curvature or shape of their fuel tanks. Look at the speed race vehicles are fueled as well as aircraft.
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Georges,
On early DDEC 2 the engine fuel is used to cool the ECM. It runs hot.. When you lose your cruise and have multiple sensor failures this is usually a sign of the ECM failing. I would be looking for a used ECM. There are a few companies that rebuild them. I think that DD wants around $2K installed. Good luck.
Kevin
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I have considered obtaining a CDL for many of the reasons that have been outlined even though I do not plan to drive commercially. I have a question though.
I understand the medical exemption but would I be bound by the other regulations when driving my personal bus? Would I have to adhere to the hours driven or rested. Would I have to keep a log?
I am not arguing that anybody should drive until they are dangerous but would I be bound by those rules?
DKO
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Jon,
You’ll not get any opposition from me. You earned your license and
as you and I both know, having the knowledge and using the knowledge are not
one in the same. Of course the insurance companies can and should give a break
to those licensed. Unfortunately, they have no other way of knowing how knowledgeable
or more importantly how the rest of us actually drive. I did have a heavy truck
driver’s license way back in my military days. That document is meaningless to
the state DMV, at least those I’ve used.Let’s just hope those around us, car, truck, trailer tower, and RV
operator are both knowledgeable and practice that knowledge when behind the
wheel. Anyone driving more than passenger/truck owes it to themselves and the
those around them to understand what they are driving and its unique handling characteristics.Gil
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We are going to have to disagree. The idiot driving 10 MPH over the speed limit while tailgating whether he possesses a CDL or otherwise is still an idiot and no class of driver license will cure stupid. But you have the apples in the same bin as the oranges.
You and I can sit in almost any campground and in the average evening watch people who make you cringe as they try to back their rig into a site. I’m not talking about the folks who get close and then have to pull ahead a few times to adjust to be lined up better, I’m talking about those we know for sure are so lacking in skills they shouldn’t be on the highway.
If nothing else every single Prevost driver would benefit from having to clearly understand how their air brake system works and why it is important to at least do a simple brake check before driving.
I respect your opinion and anticipated the opposition to my point of view. I don’t need my CDL to drive my coach, but because of my CDL I know and appreciate how important being forced to take a knowledge test and a driving test was to make me safer than I was prior to the test.
But I am very much aware stupid drivers will always be stupid drivers regardless of which class of license they possess. The insurance companies agree with my position because National Interstate, a company that insures a lot of our coaches, gives a discount if you possess a CDL.
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Thanks Tom. My tanks are not metal so that part will be much easier for me. Looks like I’ll need extra strips because of the height of the tanks. Not a bad idea putting in extra monitoring panels, I may do one in the plumbing way. Let us know how it all works out and who did you buy from?
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Chuck,
I went to Ebay and typed in “8v92 air compressor”, just to see what was out there and that is what came up.
My problem is with the OTR air system.
Thanks.
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Thanks. I guess there’s no one in Texas that does it. I’ll try Prevost in Ft. Worth and see. At least they are only 300 miles away.
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Yesterday we cruised through OKC mid afternoon with no traffic issues. We planned on staying there but as things go sometimes, lets just go a little more. The weather forecast was rain…. possible heavy late evening in OKC. Going to Tulsa would get us out of the rain. I-44 road surface is a pleasure to drive. Getting into Tulsa the Hardrock Casino has parking accross the street. That free parking lot is history as we found a concrete barricade accross the drive way entrance.
Seeing RV’s parked on the north side of the casino we found a painted space RV parking lot with dump station, and fresh water.
Guess we made a good call last night after reading Boxcarokie’s post.
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Good points, I too was weary about rubber parts just sitting, somewhere, and then you mentioned the metal to metal action upon the first start up after a long rest….not good either.
Apparently the coach is from California, which really does not score any points with me, as I lived in that state for 20 years and am pretty familiar with the climatological differences in different parts of that state. Just because a vehicle is from California doesn’t mean it wasn’t exposed to a rust prone environment!
I will advise him to try to get a hold of the previous owner and find out the conditions under which the coach was “pickled” before he blows $100K on a “bargain” .
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Don’t most shops work or charge hours by flat rate , ia, the book says it takes 1.5 hr to change part they do it in 1 hr they still charge for 1.5 hr kind of a bonus for a better machanic. Thats how they are able to give a estimate. If it takes 2 hr they still only charge by the book 1.5 hr.
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If the temperature spread between tires after they have been heated up by driving is within the few degrees you mention that is good and indicates the tire pressures (cold) are likely to be good, at least in the respect they are all equally correct or equally high or low. On hot days with the sun shining on one side of the coach it is normal to see temperature differences between the sunny and shaded sides.
Similarly if you check your tire pressures prior to driving if one side of the coach has been in the sun while the other side has been shaded you should expect to see a few PSI difference between the sunny side tires and the shaded side.