David
Forum Replies Created
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You are correct the 12R22.5 is fading at OEMs. If you want to consider a different size on a 8.25″ wheel, then you could look at the 295/80R22.5. For Michelin, it is available in a standard load and a heavy load option.
1. The 12 R22.5 general specifications:
Max load, single: 7390
Overall Diameter: 42.6″
SLR: 19.8 in
RPMS: 486
Dual Spacing: 13.2″
2. 295/80R22.5, 8.25″ wheel, XZA2 Energy and X Multiway 3D XZE (Note, this is a directional tread):
Max load, single: 7830 lbs
Overall Diameter: 41.3″
SLR: 19.1 in
RPMS: 503
Dual Spacing: 13.2″
3. 295/80R22.5 HL, 8.25″ wheel, X Coach, HLZ
Max load, single: 8270 lbs
Overall Diameter: 41.5″
SLR: 19.3 in
RPMS: 499
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I mean in line between the alternator and the lithium bank. Not just inline or online. An easy way to save the alternator is to have the LA battery connected to the alternator (via a fet/diode ) in-line with the lithium batteries.
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I have an 05 Royale, and the instahot water which I don’t use. But because the instahot on my coach does not go through the inverters, if I need additional heat I plug an electric heater in the instahot receptacle.
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First, I appreciate your comments but I am concerned you were saying for a drop in replacement (any manufacturer) it is a mistake. I think you are saying a drop in battery is a good way to go,
I know you have concerns about constant charging via inverter and potential damage via alternators, but I hammered Relion hard on those issues to make sure they understood the application and how we use our coaches and batteries.
If you go to the Relion documentation section, and specifically the charging document you will see they list charging parameters for inverter equipped applications. I cannot speak about other conversions although I believe almost all meet the requirements I find my bulk, absorb and float voltages are well within their specified range.
For cold temperature charging all they require is the current gets reduced.
I pressed them about alternator charging and since our coaches should be charging at 27.7 we are within the voltage range, and if we divide the total potential alternator amps by the number of batteries being charged we are under the 100 amp charging limit.
They do not express any concerns about their “drop in” batteries being used any different than an AGM.
As to their 8 volt shut down, I have a hard nosed attitude about that. If an owner allows the house battery system to drop to that level, too bad. We as owners have to understand how our coach systems work, the limits and what happens when the limits are exceeded.
But in the context of how I use my batteries, as hard as I tried I could not find any negatives, and those you point out are no different than as an owner having to be aware I have limits and operating procedures to follow on my engine, transmission, and even AGM batteries.
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Wow. . I’m just passing information on what people might want to know. If you want to take it – its as much as any other discussion forum, $02, free advice, value of membership, etc is worth.
My previous disucssion point was that some inaccurate statements were being made – namely discharging to BMS cutoff didnt damage the battery – and here – look at the manufacturer documents. Where clearly, they showed heavy discharge shortened battery life.
But in terms of what I disagree with just a “drop-in” and forget replacement – almost every manufacturer of these – also advise having a low voltage disconnect on the load side to disconnect before the BMS takes over. They dont advise using the “last gasp” BMS disconnect.
On the charge side –
if using alternators, needs to be regulated to LiFepo4 specs, or cut off after reaching charged voltage. Protect the alternator form disconnects as well. Essentially a high side disconnect
If using solar – same as above.
Shore/Inverter/Converter chargers. Yeah, you’ve done it with Bulk. Absorption and lower float. Basically match the necessity.
As for Relion – I’ve said it before if you read it, and I’ll repeat it again – I think they make a good product. I was going to be a customer of theirs if it wasnt for a lazy sales person. Their salesperson gave out incorrect information and I didnt go with them. So if thats a personal problem – so be it. But I’ve repeatedly said they make a good product. But that doesnt mean I agree with every thing they or their representatives say.
So you’re being direct – I’ll return fire. You said explicity – discharging to BMS cutoff does not damage the battery. What is your defintiion of “damage” to the battery ? Shortening expected cycle lifespan by 50-80% doesnt constitute damage ?
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Billy,
Older conversion seem to have detachable power cords since Glendinning was manufacturing power reals until after 1983. Detachable shore cords aren’t common, but we did see Marathon 966, an XLII 2006 that had a special,order detachable cord
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Your old radiator is 20 years old now. Leak might be an old and now failed repair.
A new radiator is probably the best choice with long term peace of mind. Replacing in a camp ground will not go well. The picture above showing a lift…might give you hint.
BTW…Your buddy Hilger has a new/new radiator which I wrote the check for shortly after buying the 2000 Marathon H-45.
AL
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Signed up for our first PC event. Looking forward to meeting everyone.
Now I have to get Jeff to work on the bus and finish before the rally!
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A few more things to consider. Lead acid battery amp hour capacity is measured at a fixed, constant rate of draw. In motorhome motorhomeuse, the real world draw is ll over the place so many people experience less life than they think they should get given the manufacturers amp hour rating and what they calculate as the “average” amp draw.
same with life time of the battery. Most literature will tell you lead acid battery lifetime will be around 1000 discharge/recharge cycles IF you never allow the battery to go below 50% discharge. For most Prevost users that is round three to five years. The trouble is, unless you are ultra fastidious about monitoring battery use, you seldom really know when you draw your batteries below 50%. For example, turn on the microwave and the induction cook top at the same time. You can watch the volts (and hence watts) drop like a rock. Now what happens when the refer (the real power hog in a residential appliance coach) also decides to come on at the same time? The voltage really plummets. Same thing happens if the water heater decides to come on at the same time.
The point is, it is really hard to estimate usage without a properly installed, shunt based, battery monitor that you watch like a hawk. Hence it is hard to know how far you really discharged your batteries, or how often, so it is hard to know for sure when you have drawn your lead acid batteries down to 50% on each discharge/recharge cycle.
Li batteries are far more forgiving because voltage does not sag nearly as much. And, many Li battery manufacturers under rate the capacity of their batteries so they can say you can use all the rated capacity (a 100 amp hour battery may actually be able to output closer to 110 to 120 amp hours) so the 85% discharge before the BMS shuts the battery down is already baked in for some Li batteries.
Be sure to read the warrantee language carefully. Some Li batteries are warranted for very short periods, like one year, while others are warranted for ten or more years. A workmanship and materials warrantee won’t do you much good if the battery capacity is woefully short after a short time. You want the warrantee to be stated in terms of capacity compared to beginning capacity. The better manufacturers state their warrantee in terms of how long their battery will output at least 85% percent of what it did when new. That is what you want.
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While I like to dry camp from time to time, do most of you spend a whole lot of time parked/camping without power for an extended period of time? I would be surprised to find out that this is the case. Now, let’s say that you do. Would you save a crap load of money by running your genset a few a hours each day to top off the batteries compared to spending thousands of dollars on LI batteries?
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Jeff measured an RB 300 and should fit a Liberty tray.
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Here some more pics
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Ouch …
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Jon … I’m well aware that the TP relief valve dumps to the ground under the coach.
There is a very, very remote possibility that someone at somepoint plumbed the TP relief valve discharge to the holding tank. Very remote, but a plausible circumstance.
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This is what I use and really like it. It’s a gps and dash camera in one unit and dose much more. There is an app which allows you to download videos to your phone and also is voice controlled.
Garmin
RV 785 & Traffic
7″ RV Navigator with Built-in Dash Cam