Darrell
Forum Replies Created
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I am sure someone knows the answer to your question, but if my coach had that my first step would be to see if the box switches would actually start the generator.
If it did then the next thing I would do is put the switch in the monitor position and pull the house battery voltage down by loading them up to see if the generator would start at some lower votage. I would not go below around 11.5 volts.
I interpret monitor not to suggest a computer or TV screen, but to “monitor” a situation such as to monitor the voltage of the house batteries.
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Happened to me.
What a mess to clean up. Batteries were 4 years old. I now make sure that each time I start the engine, I turn the ignition switch to the first position, wait for all the relays to click, then turn to the start position. So far, so good (plus I replaced all batteries).
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SilverLeaf Electronics then you’ll see what your DDEC is seeing, instead of a what an old analog gauge is telling you. Plus you can set alarms etc.
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Being the Visa is linked to my Amazon account I have developed a considerable degree of proficiency in its use. I’m not happy about the cost of that education but it is a skill that will not have me reading the user’s manual if I have to use it to make repairs on the road.
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Per’s suggestions are right on target.
What you haven’t said was your budget, how you intend to use the coach, and other than bunks what other “must haves” you will be looking for.
Having said that keep in mind you cannot begin to compare a motor home conversion with an entertainer. The motor home is likely a low mileage conversion with a house and systems unlike the entertainer which is likely to have a lot of miles, and some basic systems not usually suitable for family living.
The high bid on the Vogue did not seem unreasonable given what Per has said about the potential costs to restore a coach that likely lacked any data to show maintenance status.
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I just received 2 of these yesterday they are currently $ 35.58 each Part # 950208 from Prevost.
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Ben helped me several times, especially about some electrical issues.
Life is but a Vapor…
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Take it to a really good locksmith.
A commercial guy that doesn’t just make keys.
He should be able to fix the cylinder with the tumblers in it.
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We are residents of New Hampshire. The state does not require a special license for driving a bus and towing a trailer. I went to the State DMV office in person to present my case and they told me, no, I do not need a CDL. A regular drivers license is good. However, the state charges an additional registration fee for being over 26,000 lbs and this is in addition to the town fees where you register all of your vehicles. Our state motto is “Live Free Or Die”.
Ronald
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What is the definition of a housecar? If you are towing you certainly exceed 26,000 so how is that requirement interpreted?
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My ’88 Webasto might be different but I replaced mine with digital programmable thermostats years about. I found them at Lowe’s or Home Depot for like $30 or so. Take a look at the wiring behind the existing thermostat for what wiring is there. If it’s just 2 wire then it’s likely a 12V or 24V setup and most home systems use the same basic setup. Now I can work all day and have the furnance raise the temp in the coach from while I am away to 72 at 5PM so it’s nice and toasty when I arrive. It then drops it’s self to sleeping temps at bedtime and it gets all warm and toasty before I have to get out of bed the next morning. I never have to touch a thing.
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Hey Art, as Jon stated in Texas you do need either a Non Commercial Class A or Class B depending on the weight of the vehicle you will be towing. If I remember correctly the class B is good for up to 10000 lbs so if you plan on towing a stacker with a car inside you would need a Class A most likely.
You don’t need to have a physical since your not really getting the full blown CDL, meaning you aren’t using it it to make a living. But in Texas if your vehicle is over 26001 pounds and has air brakes you need the Class B. Some of the newer 1 ton dullie pickups and large 5th wheels will go over the 26001 lb weight and need the Class B as well. They figure that on what the truck can carry and not the curb weight plus the trailer.
I took the written test and about a week later went back and did the driving test. I didn’t have to have anyone with the Class B with me and only drove about 5 miles. I had to show I could back up next to a curb and then got up on the interstate and drove to the next exit and back to the DMV and that’s it. I offer to do the brake test but he said if were that willing to do it, he figured I knew how.
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Quick update – following everyone’s suggestions —
->Checked voltage @post – good.
->When plugged back in, with Surge Bar – it all came back. Seemed great (for 25 minutes). Line 2 all green, FRNT Cruise Air working. Flushed toilet – 🙁 system went down, as before.-Unplugged @Post – removed Surge Bar and plugged in directly – it all came back. Let it run for 60 minutes, then flushed (since that is what tripped it last time). All good – now been running for 90 minutes.
Seems like the Surge Guard Model 34750 is the likely issue. Which is probably the absolute best outcome.
Question: Do I really need the Surge Bar, or does Prevost/Liberty take care of it? If I don’t need it urgently, I will do more research and order the best there is. Otherwise, I need to get to the camping store before 5pm and buy what they have.
Tks again everyone.
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I was at the hardware store and I bought some battery felts and cut outside edge using a washer for a template, felt is the right thickness and reinforced so they don’t rip, once their sandwiched in no light comes thru
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