Dale
Forum Replies Created
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You will not regret it if you have a claim. They fully understand what a Prevost is, and what it takes to repair one.
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Dorel,
Check my post here, I now carry a new spare complete assembly: Girard Sensor
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Date wrote: “Are you talking about the two bolts that are above and below the bolt on the trailing edge of the door? Mine are not screws. They are bolts with nuts on the back.”
Yes. They are counter-sunk head bolts with a straight screwdriver head. The mechanism seems “tight” in the door, so I don’t understand why whatever is inside is stripped.
“bolts with nuts on the back” … hmmmmmm … maybe the nuts backed off and dropped down into the door? Maybe this isn’t going to be difficult as I thought. The “bolts” show no sign of stripping.
There is a touch of play in the deadbolt. If the deadbolt isn’t pushed all the way in, I can’t turn the key to lock it. I just push on the deadbolt a little and the key will turn.
I’ll take the door panel off, see what the deal is inside and report back.
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Jon,
Agree completely with your thoughts. A close friend of mine was an airline jet machanic. His feeling is that a neumatic or hydrolic valve that controls movement should not leak at all (that is one reason of many that makes airplanes crash). We could replace all as you state, but with poor tolorances from manufactures, with all new slightly leaking, would we not be in the same boat?Richard
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Have been chasing the same type of leak for months. Started with check valve and regulator for the engine belt bags. Still leaked. Installed an air guage on the dash for the aux system to see how much it was leaking. 5-lbs/hr. Finally found that the 19 year old directional valve to the floor slide seemd to be the culprit.Replaced it and with new valve, leak reduced to 3-lbs/hr. Sent back to Norgren and they sent a new one again. Leak reduced to about 2-lbs/hr. Sent it back again for them to bench test the leak (leaking from the exhuast ports depending on the position of the floor, port 3 or 5) They said bench test was within their specs ???? Thought there should not be any leaks ????. Now at a loss connected my JUN-AIR compressor for my awning into the aux system as I have not found a valve that does not leak. From empty it took about 12 – 15 minutes to bring up to 105 lbs. If from full the compressor runs 2-3 times a day for approximatly 2 minutes to bring tank up to 105 lbs. Still looking for a solution as to how to stop the leaks. Have goen through quarts of bubbles and can only find the leak on the replaced valve! Any suggestions?
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Like George said (who’s gonna fill their shoes) no one. I got 3 Merle and 3 Waylon CD’s loaded and that’s good for a full night of driving.
Sturgill Simpson has a chance.
The Georgia Bush Hogger is getting bad info from the Slum Lord in KC. I got the roadster out of the trailer before the pressure line on the steering pump blew, no oil baby just a 7510 dollar hose.
Thanks Cow Catcher, I know who my friends are.
Later
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I was able to take my old lock to an old school locksmith in town. He confirmed that the company that makes these discontinued them a few years ago. He was familiar with the lock style and had spare parts, so he was able to repair mine. Cost – $25. If you don’t have a local locksmith that is familiar with it, contact Hosse & Hosse in Nashville. They said they can repair most of them and send them back to you.
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In the meantime Tom and I are working on some neat things that you can enjoy in a month or so. Unless something goes wrong Tom is likely going to announce another discount program, and as a spin off to the seminar taking place in July we are creating some short videos of items that will be of interest to all. All of these neat things are being offered with no increase in dues. Is that a deal or what?
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Tom, you do realize that if you move to Florida you are REQUIRED to drive in the left lane at least 25 MPH below the posted limit with your right blinker on at all times, don’t you? On your H, are you able to adjust your steering wheel where only the top of your head is above the rim? If so, then you are good to go.
3F
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Great post…good detail about what produces differant part numbers.
I have this picture in my files of the boot caps which you spoke about.
Pictures are worth a thousand words.
Easy to replace when broken but let be “as-is” will cost you $100’s of dollars.
You can see the split rubber in center of picture. This crack showed up on an inspection during greasing the front end zerk fittings.
This crack allows dirt and water to enter the caliper slide pins, which must remain clean to function smoothly as Eryk wrote about in his message.
After….new boot installed
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Matt
You are correct in that someone may have indexed the steering wheel. Here’s how you can tell if that’s the case. Remove the cover from the steering wheel so that the nut and shaft end are visible.
The steering shaft will have a top dead center mark on it, (if it can be installed in any way but properly). The steering wheel may or may not have a matching mark, but it’s pretty obvious when it is perfectly straight. Match the straight steering wheel with the mark on the shaft in the 12 o’oclock position. Then get the vehicle alignment done properly at a factory Prevost service facility.
When the steering wheel has been incorrectly indexed on the shaft (usually because the technician is too lazy to properly set the toe adjustment) the vehicle will not drive at its best and there will be ‘play’, felt by lose sloppy steering.
I’ve had some of the so called best tire and alignment facility owners tell me they we’re going to index my steering wheel. Needless to say, my comments to them about their suggestion we’re not sugar coated as I departed.
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Dean & Heidi…
We tow a 2015 Suburban LTZ without a problem after learning the tricks of the trade !!
We installed a battery disconnect switch which simplifies the setup. I also have a 9 Volt battery with a short cable that plugs into the cigarette lighter and saves ALL your radio Navigation settings etc. (most dealerships use these on vehicles when they have to disconnect batteries as it saves all the settings)… very simple you just plug it in and leave it before you disconnect the battery. It has worked every time and I’m still on the first battery after hours and hours of travel.
The key to success is the sequence of following the steps perfectly… if you forget a step it just won’t work.
We finally have it down pat !!
Hope this helps …
Cheers, Diane
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Jon you forgot to mention that to get to the door in front of the microwave door you had to open the door to the coach to get to the door in front of the door to use the microwave.
I’ve thought the same things about the doors in front of doors and drawers. I suspect it has something to do with the mystic of a Liberty and the extreme qualify of workmanship that goes into building a Liberty.
I wonder if Frank, Frank, and Kurt ever read these posts.
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The day I picked up my Liberty the road air would not turn on. They jumped on the repair, opened the engine doors and proceeded to remove the polished stainless steel cover obstructing access to most of the lower engine bay. After fixing the a/c, they started to reinstall the cover and I stopped them. Told them to keep it. they were amazed. I don’t think I really need covers over covers.