[jack]

Jeff,

Dale Houston knows the location of a few salvage buses of that year model range that are being parted out. You’ll find his phone number in the second thread in the emergency breakdown section.

Ken

[Bob]

My bolt (actually rectangle latching bar) was bent when I got it. I put it in a press and works like new. FWIW

[joel]

Jeff, there’s a guy out in Oregon, I think, that salvages Prevosts. He has NOS locks for XLs for $125. This is just for the square mechanism. It does not include the lock cylinder. On most I have seen, the square part is what breaks. Mine had been rewelded several times. Finally went in search of a replacement.

If you don’t have it, I’ll see if I can find contact info for the guy. BTW, I was told that if Prevost did have the part, it was $600.

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1999 XLV X-6872,  liberty #440

[David]

Those locks are commercial grade locks that are still available from a good commercial hardware dealer.

We have one here in town that probably has parts for them.

I don’t know if there is any thing special to the Prevost door such as the length of throw for the bolt assembly but if you need help I can look at mine or take it to the place here and see if they have the part.

Have used them before in commercial buildings I have built in the past.

http://www.corbinrusswin.com/en/site/corbin-russwin/Product-Information/?groupId=1362145

[Archived]

Before you spend $125 for the door latch stop in at a NAPA truck store and they have to whole thing for around $20. The store in Aurora Oregon has three of them on the shelf.

[Archived]

I can’t speak for y’all, but those won’t work on my bus. The distance from the hole to the edge of the door is different from those on doors. I bought one of those fancy electronic locks that would read the Bluetooth on my phone and open automatically. I’d have to rebuild the entire door to use it.

[Bernie]

Hi I just went through trhe Deadbolt Deal I bought two from Prevost Both was wrong when they arrived , I called and was told they had none like i needed I have the 1.25 inch long one all they carry now is the short one. Bottomline Marathon had a Kit 600$ in old stock Mine is also a XL

[Dale]

I was able to take my old lock to an old school locksmith in town. He confirmed that the company that makes these discontinued them a few years ago. He was familiar with the lock style and had spare parts, so he was able to repair mine. Cost – $25. If you don’t have a local locksmith that is familiar with it, contact Hosse & Hosse in Nashville. They said they can repair most of them and send them back to you.

[Archived]

The countersunk screws through the door frame that would appear to hold the mechanism in place are both stripped. The threads on the screws seem to be OK, but what they thread into appears to be stripped because the screws don’t grip into anything. But the mechanism is tight.

I brought it to the attention to the tech at Prevost Jacksonville in January and he didn’t seem too interested in fixing it other than telling me the converter applied interior to the door would have to be removed. He installed green painters tape to keep the screws from dropping out.

My plan is to remove that panel and see what I can see. My fear is that the threads on the mechanism case are stripped. Maybe it can be heli-coiled, or I can find a new case. I will keep Dale’s locksmith in mind. I presume the locking mechanism is provided by Prevost and not the converter.

[Eric]

go one screw size larger. Thread cutter for next size should go rite thru stripped out hole. Or locktite makesa thread builder that you apply a release agent to present screw and a jb weld like putty over that and thread lightly into hole. After a few hrs you can tighten screw up. FWIW bob

[Dorel]

Are you talking about the two bolts that are above and below the bolt on the trailing edge of the door? Mine are not screws. They are bolts with nuts on the back.

The whole door mechanism seems strange to me. Having the panel with the inside flip handle on it, that is held on with screws through wood, is just strange. Eventually, I plan to redo my door and get rid of all of that stuff.

[Dale]

Date wrote: “Are you talking about the two bolts that are above and below the bolt on the trailing edge of the door? Mine are not screws. They are bolts with nuts on the back.”

Yes. They are counter-sunk head bolts with a straight screwdriver head. The mechanism seems “tight” in the door, so I don’t understand why whatever is inside is stripped.

“bolts with nuts on the back” … hmmmmmm … maybe the nuts backed off and dropped down into the door? Maybe this isn’t going to be difficult as I thought. The “bolts” show no sign of stripping.

There is a touch of play in the deadbolt. If the deadbolt isn’t pushed all the way in, I can’t turn the key to lock it. I just push on the deadbolt a little and the key will turn.

I’ll take the door panel off, see what the deal is inside and report back.

[Peter]

Like Robert, my bolt was bent. But the insides of my lock had been repaired before. Apparently, the expense and rarity of these locks is nothing new. Lots of them have been repaired. Mine is working great now. But I still am going to explore replacing all of the Prevost stuff. I’ll have to have new stainless on the outside of the door, and have some new mounts welded into the inside. But, luckily that project can wait since it’s working now.