[Dale]

After seeing Monte do a demonstration I can see how having that feature available in a coach would be a tremendous asset. Over the years I have learned that driving in some weather conditions really sucks.

Heavy rain, or winds, or snows somehow take drivers with marginal skills and turn them into threats to our safety. Unless we have a schedule the weather depiction and reporting capability alone would help make a decision to get off the road early or to press on. Since it over lays roadmaps drivers would be able to work with the same knowledge of weather pilots have access to.

[Dale]

I probably do need to update my inverter. It is an old Trace inverter/charger. Here’s what I can’t understand about the aux alternator being bad… I NEVER run my generator going down the road. But my house batteries always show a full charge when traveling. I have four Group 27 deep cycle batteries, so not a lot of reserve. So I don’t understand how I can go on a 14 hour trip with lights and TV on if that alternator is not charging.

I repeatedly asked about grounds and neutrals. I don’t understand a lot about electricity, but that makes sense to me. They keep saying no. Sadly, I’m in in a time crunch. Leaving tomorrow night.

[Dale]

Here’s what I’ve discovered about Turbo outlet temperatures
verses boost pressure on my engine. If I’m using a combination of settings that
produce over 40 lbs of boost I’ll see 500 degrees or slightly more on the TCO
temps and approximately 400 degrees with settings that produce mid to high 30’s of
boost pressure. I don’t remeber running a tune that produced low 30’s but I would
expect the TCO temps to be low to mid 300’s at that boost pressure. If you
have a pre-EGR engine it should be producing about 32 lbs of boost so (blue) lower
temperature hoses are OK on the hot side(TCO). Since an EGR engine produces
over 40 lbs of boost you need the higher temperature hoses (red) on the hot
side (TCO). I don’t buy the story about hose color doesn’t matter, it could be
true, I’d want to do more research before I felt good about installing blue hoses
on the turbo outlet side with an EGR engine..

Ken

[Dale]

Thanks Guys,

Like Jon stated, my criteria for a campground would be that the rig fits. I have no issues staying in high-end resorts or those off the beaten path, if the rig fits. Since we will be full-timing and have the ability to plan in advance around our volunteer work or work on the family farm, any discounts along the way are simply “nice-to-have” but not a huge issue.

I will ensure to ask for the PC discount though …

[Dale]

We have a retarder and so far in the mountains of Kentucky, Virginia, Tennesse, Georgia, and Wisconsin it has worked fine for us. I have yet to see an increase in trans temp …. presuming the Liberty “Oil Temp” gauge on the dash is the trans temp which I’ve been told.

I would also like a Jake brake because I think they sound better when applied. I’m also considering swapping out our “Train Whistle” for a “Train Horn” which I think sounds better than a “Train Whistle”.

[Dale]

For some, I think it’s not about what you are asked or not asked to prove. It is more about having the rule, and as Jon said , the smell of their s$$t.

[Dale]

Welcome to the site , I have had three Prevost two I totally redid and no problems after that , but it can be overwhelming at first if you do not know what to look for I drive 50,000 to 60,000 miles a year and once in 30 years was I ever stranded on side of road, do your home work and you will be ok

[Dale]

Ok thinking this through! The evap relay is sitting beside the condenser relay. Evaporate fan runs when I turn on ac switch at the dash. Wondering if jumping condenser relay from evap relay will get condenser fan to come on when AC is switched on at the dash?

[Dale]

Mark, I’m not brave enough to go in backwards. That would get you in trouble in a busy truck stop in a hurry! I just use the satellite pump. It’s just one extra step so not a big deal. The only thing I wish was different, is I wish that they had a readout on the satellite pump. I would prefer to be able to stop my pump on an even number. But it’s not that big of a deal. And thank God I don’t have to buy DEF too! haha

[Dale]

I believe that is a 12 rib pulley. If that be true the current belt is wrong. Based on the rust, it’s been there for awhile.

Should of been noticed incorrect on bus service / inspection.

Gear box to fan with tension spring pulley….right ?

Prevost part number….507627 Note; this part number is on the belt and mfg by Dayco. In translation of the part numbers you will not find this belt doing normal cross referance at your local NAPA store. Prevost did a bulk order for this 12 rib belt.

With that said this might explain why there is the incorrect belt on this application.

827K12BU …is the Dayco referance and the “BU” stands for Bulk Order.

Karl…FWIW all the rusty ribs need to be wire brushed before installing a new belt

And this is why parts countermen have gray hair.

[Dale]

Found them at Marathon— Dallas.

Thanks

[Dale]

The leak stops after a while?

I bet if you take a pressure reading at the Schrader fill valve at the RH side below the tail light stack you will find the leak stops when that hits zero. It should have no affect on your system pressures.

[Dale]

Yeah, single fill on the curb side. Sometimes I wish for dual fills. Now I guess, I am glad I don’t have it. Kinda like the small tank. Sometimes I wish I had a larger one… but then I have to pull in and fuel up and I am glad it is smaller! haha

[Dale]

Dale, you sound as savvy as me on the coach. Ha. If mine ever quits, I’m calling somebody. I use mine air lock going down the road for wind noise. Have to have the button on the dash pushed to activate. Would assume if somebody dumps air it would open. At night, mine has a deadbolt knob inside to lock door. I wonder if all the older coaches do.

[Dale]

Prevost does or did offer a kit to address fuel puking. It is not the easiest install, but it does eliminate the problem.

A word of advice to new owners who may think this problem is only going to happen on occasion……..WRONG

You can run the nozzle fast or slow. Slow definitely makes the amount puked out less impressive, but it still shoots out. Where everyone suffers is the eruption of fuel seems to follow the nozzle shut off by a few seconds. You know it will spill, so you stand back. Then the nozzle clicks off and you don’t see any spillage so you reach immediately for the nozzle. At that time the fuel gushes out and you have it all over your shoes, pants and hands.

You can calculate how much fuel it will take and not fill it, but come close. You can use the lowest flow rate possible. You can try anything you want, but sooner or later you are going to get splashed. Sticking your ear down to listen for the fuel is a good way to get a diesel scalp treatment. I finally accepted the burp, went to a slow speed when I was near the end of fueling, and just stood back and let the nozzle click off. Then I waited for the burp. As soon as that occurred I grabbed the nozzle and hung it up. Leaning the coach did no good. I just accepted the fact it was going to push out some fuel, and I learned to position myself so I did not have to walk in it.

Not one of Prevost engineerings best accomplishments.