Corey
Forum Replies Created
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Greg,
You are doing it right and have the system that works as well as if the engine is running.
However not all brake systems work as well as the M&G or AF-1. Note the difference in brake force required to slow or stop a power assisted brake with the engine running compared to when the engine is not running. Supplemental brake systems need the force required to be effective without assist from the toad engine running. And larger vehicles, such as the H2 Hummer and the Dodge Ram 2500 use the power steering pump for hydraulic assist in lieu of vacuum boost and the force required to operate those brakes is substantial.
But everyone has to recognize even without a toad the stopping distances on our coaches are excessive compared to the average car. It is not unusual for our buses to require at least 2 X the stopping distance of a car so amber lights which are set for car stopping distances are a real challenge for us with or without the toad. Adding to the problem is when cars change lanes and pull in front of us too close, and then hit the brakes.
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Might be a supply or ground problem. Do the two gauges share 12/24V or ground? Loose wire?
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Corey
MemberMarch 17, 2013 at 8:40 pm in reply to: Replacement for old Amana Fridge – 2001 Marathon HWe got a new 24″ deep Samsung 3 door at Sears 3 years ago and it went right through our door with the doors removed and the hand rail on the second flight of stairs… old one out and new one in an hour.
Also discovered air condiitioning behind it and did a good clean up !!! Very successful project overall !!! -
They use it during driving tests for people with manual transmissions to see if they can start on a hill after stopping.
It is also a good place for me to back up coaches owned by owners that prefer to not waste their time doing pre-trip brake tests. I let them drive their coach down the driveway. If that doens’t convince folks of the importance of a brake check, ain’t nuthin gonna.It’s nowhere near as scary backing up as it is going down.
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Tom,
Great post! As for my CC, CC OTR air with dash air has worked for us. My compressor and condenser are not original. I suppose the replacement units MAY out perform the original but I can’t comment on the original parts as they were replaced prior to my purchase.
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Sheesh, how did my blind post get to OTR.. Oh ya, it was me who did it…
Just a parting shot… I have owned both, 2000 CC Prevost with CC OTR and now the Liberty with Prevost OTR.
Ain’t no comparison boys, I speak from experience…
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He needed to turn the OTR on.
At which point he would be chillin’.
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Paul,
Once you cross the line from Private Motorhome to Commercial status, you have a whole new hosts of rules, liability exposure and regulations. Your driver (with Chauffeur License) now has to comply with DOT rules and regulations pertaining to hours of service, medical, etc. and your bus is also subject to all DOT rules as well. A big problem for you will be Insurance as a Commercial Entity. Yes, you will have to have a DOT number and that will require all of the above.
By your description of what you are doing, you are a Commercial entity.
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Jon,
Totally correct as always… I have located and work in all locations. Not sure about Liberty but in my steer compartment near the Norgren there is a simple yellow tab that will cut off the Marathon from the Prevost side. If you “marry” them it is possible that you may over work the compressor in the Gen bay to make up for loss of air on the Prevost side if you have leaks. However over a period of time untouched for weeks my coach maintains a great 120 psi in both front, rear and Aux. So in my instance I have “married” them. I am just never certain if the compressor is being over worked to make up the difference as I am not in my coach regulary. Just interested if Al had his married and was not sure if Liberty did the same set-up as I have been taught to let them be independant from one another not to marry them. My coach number is 10 or so away from Al’s so I just couldn’t imagine them being set-up any differently.
Hope this makes sense. If I get some pics I will post them.
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Thanks Ed. I will.
DKO
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Wavel,
Bus looks great, be sure to tell us all about it when you pick it up.
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I bought a set of 4 at the county school board auction for 22500 they were not wire less and had to be pluged in but they rolled around easiley and worked great. Dont remember the brand but they were orange,, keep you eye out for state and county auctions
Stertil-Koni are what they are
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PA-1082 1989-2000 is the maintenance manual for xl buses and motorhomes from 1989 -2000.
Access this at the link Jon provided.
Go to the Technical manuals section.
Mark vehicle type as “XL Bus”
Check “Maintenance Manual
Do not enter a date
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Tom, yes someone did. The previous owner had the bus stored with the broker we purchased it from. When informed that he needed new house batteries he elected to save money on a bus he never used and put eight cheap NAPA lead acid 4D’s in as replacements. Eight 8D AGM’s would have been nice. The real crazy part are the racks are made for 8D’s which even from NAPA are only about $30 per battery more than the 4D’s. We will let them run for a while as they were new and I am used to checking and topping off wet lead acid batteries in my various electric carts and such although it is a real PITA pulling them from the racks.
We pretty much go from pole to pole with little or no dry camping. If we ever had a situation arise where we needed to dry camp, I would have no issues running the generator for an extended period of time. We run a refrigerator, wine cooler, basement ice maker, and occationally the microwave while on the road. We have CC OTR air so our roof A/C’s are not on the inverter circuits. With our described battery load and needs, how many 8D AGM’s do you think we should go with?
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Ditto on our 2000 CC XL. Once you know which door(s) it is, just keep that one locked with the key until you need to open it. Needless to say it’ll be the one you use the most.